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Remington 1100 Problems-Need advice

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by djcuda, Jul 1, 2007.

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  1. djcuda

    djcuda Member

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    I have been having a problem with my 1100.It will work just fine and then it will not fire sometimes 500 rounds sometimes 5.After I shoot and load the next round it will not fire.The shell is fully chambered as I have tried many new and different reloads when this occurs.I have replaced the firing pin and spring and all springs in the trigger along with the hammer.I can take the trigger out of the gun and the trigger will not fire.This happens with the factory Remington trigger and a Timney pull trigger.Once I cycle the trigger out side of the gun and put it back in it works fine.Has anyone else had this type of problem?I am looking for some help or a recomendation for a good Remington gunsmith.
    Thanks Dave
     
  2. BMC

    BMC Member

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    Have you checked the bolt spring in the stock and the bolt connector link? If there is any bind or obstruction causing the bolt to not cycle all the way back, there is a chance it isn't striking the trigger reset. Just something else to consider. Might not be the case, but worth a look.
     
  3. djcuda

    djcuda Member

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    Both have also been replaced and there does not seem to be any binding.
    Thanks Dave
     
  4. trw

    trw Member

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    Several thots come to mind:

    1) if the trigger has been pulled with the trigger assy out of the gun and allowed to slam home there is a strong probability that the sheet metal 'latch' tab has been bent, and if it has then you must replace it to get things back in time to function correctly again. This is not something easily checked, so if any doubt whatsoever, replace it.

    2) the interruptor on the inside of the action can get excessively worn [sloppy side to side movement] from use. When that happens the 'E clip' should be replaced with a thicker one from Remington. They purposely make them in varying thicknesses to remedy wear in that area when it occurs.

    3) early 1100's had aluminum pistons, the part that the tuning fork fits into that rides in front of the recoil spring in the buttstock. Later pistons were steel. If yours is aluminum, throw it away & replace w/a steel unit. Aluminum pistons bend & bind creating function problems.

    4) if the recoil spring is under 14" laying on the table, replace it with a new one. New ones are 15.25" long

    Perhaps something here may assist you. Please let us know your solution when you find the culprit.
     
  5. hubcap

    hubcap TS Member

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    Aug 17, 2006
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    Is it possible that your reciever is sprung and is binding the trigger assembly?
     
  6. Shady Creek

    Shady Creek TS Member

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    1 loose #8 in there will do that,check it's probably smashed. GOOD LUCK

    ps.Not being a smart a--,if all else fails,buy a Beretta.
     
  7. Steve-CT

    Steve-CT TS Member

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    So, let me make sure I understand this: when you pull the trigger - you get slack, right?

    That means either

    A. The action is not closing 100%

    B. You have a defective trigger (fire control)

    To eliminate B - swap out your Timney with a factory 1100 fire control from
    an 1100 that is working

    To eliminate A - a longer process of elimination is required - all the reasons cited above plus others, could be causing your 1100 to not lock up completely
    for firing occasionally

    Buying the Beretta is NOT the solution as the person above mentioned.
    They break too. And when they do - it's a real PITA to get them going again.
    They simply seem to require less frequent cleanings and their gas systems have more parts than two 1100s and an M-1A

    I shot one for three days two weeks ago and I've shot every Beretta auto since the 302. The 1100 is the better gun by far for multiple reasons.

    Follow the A B steps above. You will correct it in short order
     
  8. lumper

    lumper TS Member

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    Buy the Browning XT combo from that GN7 dude so he will stop posting about it and be done with your Remington problems.
     
  9. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    I sounds as if the trigger is not returning all the way forward.

    Have you had the trigger worked on lately?

    The sear spring may be too weak to return the trigger. A weakened sear spring will give you a lighter trigger pull, but it also needs to be strong enough to return the trigger with authority.

    Or, is the interupter and action bar lock, been "flip-flopped". These two are found on the left side of the trigger assy. The interuptor bar (silver colored) should be above the action bar lock (black colored).


    Doug
     
  10. djcuda

    djcuda Member

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    I would like to thank every one for their input and help.I have 3 1100 shotguns and this is what I prefer to shoot.I have swapped the trigger out with a completely rebuilt factory trigger and the gun will still do the same thing.All parts that can be replaced have been.I will go out and shoot some practice and see what happens.
    Thanks Dave
     
  11. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Getting a little confused...

    Do both trigger work fine while removed from the gun? But only fail while in the gun?

    If the bolt is not in complete battery(fully closed) the trigger will feel "mushy", and not fire.

    Try shooting some factory ammo. Maybe the brass on the reloads is a little fat, not allowing the gun to close fully.
     
  12. Steve-CT

    Steve-CT TS Member

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    So, what you are saying is, you tried a different trigger that is working from another 1100 and replaced all the parts that usually break and it is still - not engaging 100% and firing.

    Something is preventing the action from closing 100%.

    Did you try another barrel, for the hell of it? Different shells? I've seen
    fat reloads not close 100%.

    If I shoot my 1100 for 300-500 rounds between cleanings - I will have that problem with Federal papers - I sometimes have to bump the bolt handle closed
    (like the forward assist on an M-16) That's my queue that the chamber needs a good scrubbing.
     
  13. Rem870TB

    Rem870TB Active Member

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    "Buy the Browning XT combo from that GN7 dude so he will stop posting about it and be done with your Remington problems."

    The you'll have mushy trigger, light bottom barrel firing pin strike and potential recoil issues; 3+ decades of shooting has taught me that EVERYTHING has its problems.

    "I have 3 1100 shotguns and this is what I prefer to shoot"

    Absolutely, shoot what you want, I do and that includes 1100's and Citori's.
     
  14. cmptrwz1

    cmptrwz1 TS Member

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    Hi the frist thing I would do is check what kind of lube you are using on your triggers try this clean the triggers with a good decarbon cleaner then run the under very hot water to clean out the parts you can't get to and dry the triggers and then spray the trigger litely coat of cpl that thay use on the m-16 and try that it sound the trigger dicorrnect is not reseting it is sticking and this why the trigger is not resetting and firing went you pull the trigger rem auto don't like any type of stickly type of lub in the triggers this is what I found on my 1187 and it fix the problem even rem lub doesn't work also nothing with teflon in it either hope this helps
     
  15. Steve-CT

    Steve-CT TS Member

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    cmp, he said the gun still wasn't shooting even after replacing the trigger. I'm assuming he's getting "slack" when he pulls the trigger. That means something is preventing the action from closing all the way.

    Could be a fragment of a broken part, or tiny piece of shot wedged somewhere in the action; could be cracked action bar or crack in the housing where the bolt handle rides; maybe even a crack in the barrel extension that can pull a shell a few thousandths too close (like mine did, firing hard and flattening the brass head against the bolt face) or, too far and not always closing up 100% That's why I asked him to swap barrels and see if it still happens.

    It's simple, he just hasn't found it yet.
     
  16. lumper

    lumper TS Member

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    cmptrwz1 ... WHAT?

    For a #1 computer whiz I have almost no clue as to what you were saying. I have read it a 1/2 dozen times and only now am beginning to understand what you think you might be trying to say.
     
  17. cmptrwz1

    cmptrwz1 TS Member

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    Here is a response for all you college grads who never make mistakes!!! (Lumpy)

    First if you read the mans post he said that he has to take the trigger out of the gun and cycle it manually to get it to work then he puts it back in the shotgun and it works.
    1.lube = lubrication or oil or grease
    2.decarbon = cleaner that will cut through the built up residue left behind
    3.Hot water = like out of the faucet in your sink. the hot water will wash out the trigger assembly and degrease the assembly
    4.CPL = a lube that is used on automatic firearms that can take the heat that causes other oils to leave a coating or residue behind that will foul up a trigger assembly and cause it to stick.
    If you never owned an 1100, you would not know that the trigger assembly comes out as a unit and it can be cleaned also I have seen a lot of Brownings break and saw two of them blow up. Brownings aren't the best gun out there either!
     
  18. lumper

    lumper TS Member

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    Geez ... good gracious ... you is a WhizBang Smart person, I knew you probably were but what is CPL? I spent time in the service and cleaned many a weapon but I never used or heard of CPL. We always used Break Free also know as CLP, is that what you meant to say?

    Seriously thanks for clarifying your suggestions, for the life of me I was not fully understanding "try this clean the triggers" & "then run the under very hot water" & "spray the trigger litely coat of cpl" & ... well almost the rest of but now it is all making allot more sense. Thanks again for clarifying.
     
  19. cmptrwz1

    cmptrwz1 TS Member

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    Hey lumper CLP was the old oil they used the new oil know it's called CPL (Gun Oil Silicone Lubricant )and is being used by the Marines and other service since Desert Strom a little behind are we.
     
  20. lumper

    lumper TS Member

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    Nope ... the stuff was crap back then and is most likely still crap today. If the military uses it is not a sound endorsement for anything other than it was the cheapest thing available to them to purchase.

    BTW ... I put in ... "CPL (Gun Oil Silicone Lubricant) ... in Google and this is the very first thing that came up ...
    http://tinyurl.com/yofvy2 ... please ... please dont tell us your using this on your shotgun, your pee shooter maybe but please not on your shotgun.
     
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