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Reloading with estate hulls

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by trapshotr15, Jul 24, 2008.

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  1. trapshotr15

    trapshotr15 TS Member

    Jul 8, 2008
    I am new to the reloading scene. Has anyone reloaded an estate hull ?
    Are they safe to use ? I cant find any data on these hulls in my books
    I like using Greendot & WA112 wads in my other hulls, Can I use these same compnents ?
  2. Bitter American

    Bitter American TS Member

    Apr 25, 2008
    If you use estate hulls, reload one time and toss them due to the paper base wad. I use 17 to 19 grains of Red Dot. I use a claybuster red 8. 1.125 shot.
    The hull is like a Federal hull paper base wad. I also use them for Annie games with 30 grains of Long shot Brown Iso4 Federal 1.25 shot. Sometimes these loads will buckle in my Mec at AA settings.
  3. TrapMan3

    TrapMan3 TS Member

    Jul 18, 2008
    I've been reloading them with no problems. Use mostly for practice rounds. Some people have reported that they can't get them to crimp well, however, my MEC reloader has had no trouble.

    - Carl
  4. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

    Mar 14, 2006
    They can be used once or twice. The main issue being primer pocket enlargement and tubes separating from the base/head. The best wads would be ones that are ddesigned for a straight walled hull. The WAA12 and similar wads are designed for a tapered hull and would usually have a smaller diameter overpowder cup. That could possibly cause some issues with powder migration and inconsistent velocities, especially in colder weather. Some people claim they have little trouble using those wads. I have encountered enough variation that I use the proper wads and don't experiment with others.

    Green Dot powder can work, but I prefer Red Dot or Promo. Alliant Powder can probably give you a good idea of how much to use with your components. You might try to call or email them for info. I would think somewhere around 19.5 - 20.5 grains would work with 1 1/8 ounce of shot, and probably with 1 oz as well. I would recommend the Federal 12S0 for 1oz and the 12S3 for 1 1/8. There are decent clones of either available from the usual suspects. Downrange makes a very good clone of the 12S3.

    Some people will tell you to use the data for the Gold Medal hulls. It's usually pretty close, as long as you are not using anything with higher pressures. I would try to use data that is around 9000pai or less to start. If you have a chronograph, you would be ahead of the game.

    I also inspect EVERY hull with a light and look for any debris or evidence of a swelled or deteriorating basewad. If they get wet, the basewad will expand up around the primer opening a little bit. They don't dry out well. Just toss them if they don't look right. If there is evidence of gas leaking past the primer, I toss them or use an oversized primer like the Rio or Nobel Sport to be sure and toss them in the can after firing. It will look like a little black ring of smudge around the primer when looking at the case head.
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