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Reloading REO 2 3/4 blue hulls

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by letzc1, Jul 6, 2008.

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  1. letzc1

    letzc1 TS Member

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    Apr 12, 2008
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    Has anyone reloaded REO 12 GA. blue hulls? They are a popular shell where I shoot and are always discarded. I could scoop them up by the hundreds on any Sunday.
    I cut one of these popular hulls open today and see that the hull has a consistant thickness unlike Remington or AA hulls which are popular hulls for reloading. The REO hulls are also 2 piece plastic and the Remington are one piece. The REO is also a 6 point crimp, not an 8 point crimp like the others.
    Right now I am reloading with 7/8 oz. of 8 1/2 shot using a #29 bushing with Alliants American Select. This recipe in any of the Green remington hulls with the gray WAA12L wad is like a lazer beam on the 16 yard line.
    I'd like to keep the same performance from my reload regardless of the hulls I have available. Thanks
     
  2. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

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    letzcl, Yes the Rio's with an I not an E are good to reload. They are a Euro type shell made in Spain. So with that said, you will need a Euro type primer, Like the Rio or the Noble sport primer a few others also. Next you will need to know that the hull is a Cheddite type hull. The stars on the bottom of the hull will denote this. You might be able to find a cheddite hull in Alliants loading data chart. If not I know there some on Hodgdon's site. If you use any of there powder clay dot is a swap for their clays powder so I hear. You will also need the change out your crimps to the 6 point as well. I have heard of several shooters on this site reload them with good results. Not sure how many times they reload them though. I would also use a Mec reloader as well. You have already noticed the seperate base wad that might come loose if you don't reprime the hull with the tube from the inside like all the Mec's use. Good Luck and I hope this helps. Shooting Coach reloads these and might post here in the future as well. Also some say reload once and toss. I don't know this as I have not loaded them this is all hear=say I have picked up on this site. Break-em all. Jeff
     
  3. famill00

    famill00 TS Member

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    I loaded some for backup shells. Easy to distinguish amongst others. Load once and toss. There are plenty lying around.

    Forrest
     
  4. Shooting Coach

    Shooting Coach Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Nashville Tn
    I confess. I load these by the barrel!

    I prefer the Rio primer. It is hot and made so O/U's with tired firing pins and mainsprings will fire them reliably.

    I have gotten 4 loads out of these hulls, but since my home club sells about a pallet a month, or more, I shoot them once and let them go. This way, I am putting good components into a good once fired hull.

    I told a few trapshooting friends about these hulls, where to find Rio primers, and which wads to use. This was NOT the smartest thing I have ever done! LOL

    I DO use a Mec 9000G press.
     
  5. grnberetcj

    grnberetcj Active Member

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    I thought "REO" was a band in the 80's and they were already loaded when riding their wagon???

    Curt
     
  6. Andy44

    Andy44 Active Member

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    When I reload these, I use Federal type wads as RIO hulls are quite large inside. DownRange XXL (Orange) wads work perfect for 7/8~1 oz loads using "fluffy" powders. I like about 21gr G-Dot or 23gr of Unique under DR-12F3 wads pushing 1 1/8oz of shot. HTH
     
  7. Andy44

    Andy44 Active Member

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    I have found that nearly all the Fiocchi, Cheddite, Nobel Sport, RIO, etc. load the same, so Federal type wads pushed by "fluffy" powders work well. These hulls are of the large capacity variety, so I load them like Federal GMs. The crimps vary from 6 to 8, and the final crimp sometimes isn't all that pretty, but these hulls are re-load once then throw away for me. HTH
     
  8. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    look at these and then decide for yourself if you want to load them. I shoot an auto, so it's not an option to check the barrel after each shot. Be sure to read my disclaimer below, so "Tbaby" and friends have nothing to complain about.

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h79/nospoda/?action=view&current=IMG_0138cropped.jpg" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h79/nospoda/?action=view&current=Kemen1.jpg" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h79/nospoda/?action=view&current=Kemen2.jpg" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h79/nospoda/?action=view&current=Kemen3.jpg" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a>

    <a href="http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h79/nospoda/?action=view&current=Kemen4.jpg" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a>

    Now for the qualifier/disclaimer:

    I have not seen a base wad exit the hull. I have not seen any gun damage because of a displaced basewad from a Rio, Kemen, etc hull. The possiblility is there, and due to the fact that the basewads in these hulls have actually been migrating up in the hull, I'd rather load something else. Samples of the affected hulls have been sent to the manufacturer and there has been no response from them since. I found this issue during the inspectoion process before trying to load some of these. I ALWAYS look inside the hulls before loading. Something didn't look right and upon firther inspection, it was noticed that the base wad had migrated upwards. This was experienced in many hulls manufactured by the parent company of Rio, UEE.

    This has been hashed out and presented before. It's like the elusive Winchester AA base wad separations. I've never seen any of those, but base wad migration in the Rio/UEE hulls, I have.

    The advice about using a MEC is a good idea, but the priming tube should be set lower to add some extra pressure during the priming process. That might give you a better chance of re-seating the base wad. I would add a good inspection process where you use a strong light an a little magnification to check the inside of the hull.
     
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