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Reloading help

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Cuky, Aug 7, 2009.

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  1. Cuky

    Cuky Member

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2009
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    Hi I am new in reloading and I would like to get some good ideas. I just purchased new Mec Mark V single stage reloader and I will use Winchester AA plastic hulls and reload 1 1/8 oz. I am shooting just singles now. My question is what powder,primer and wads works good from 16 yard line? Thank You.
     
  2. KEYBEAR

    KEYBEAR Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    3,222
    You will hear alot of stuff but just keep it simple . Any of the old stand by powders will work fine . Red Dot - Clays - green Dot the list is long .

    Do you have a manual if not buy one also a scale all loads need to be weighed .

    Loading Winchester AA,s get a replacement wad for the AA hull (Clay buster)

    Load a good light singles shell around 1145fps under 10000 # psi .

    Have lots of fun .

    ALF
     
  3. gary0920

    gary0920 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Tallahassee, FL
    You had better start with what you are able to lay your hands on right now. Hook up with someone at your club that reloads and find out what they are using and where to get supplies. Primers and powder are at a premium. Grab any primers you can get a hold of. Red dot, clay dot, 700x, clays, E3, promo are all great for the lighter loads. Depending on how much shooting you are doing, 1 1/8 oz is wasting a lot of shot. Drop down to 1 or even 7/8 oz. You will not drop any birds because of less shot and may pick up a few on the reduced recoil. Each manufacuter has a reloading web site that will tell you what to load with with the various components. Get a small scale and check your charges. Good luck and have fun.
     
  4. powderburn

    powderburn Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2008
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    Location:
    Anderson, IN
    Hey!
    Just keep your pressure around 8,500 give or take. The object of this game is fun. If you beat yourself to death with 3 dram eq. reloads, you're not really gaining anything from reloading. Keep your speeds around 1140 and you'll be fine. #8's for your shot are fine, and the cheapy primers are good-Noble Sport, Cheddite, etc. Manuals are a good start with being safe to not overload on anything, but don't be afraid to experiment with a little less powder and shot. 1 oz. loads will patten better and just smash 'em up at 16 and really all over the trap field. Get a good scale. Digital isn't nec., a balance scale from RCBS-model 505 is a good one. The cheapy primers will be oversize, so you'll need to stick with them after (if) you buy them. Good luck to you. The 600 jr. will load nice looking shells. If you ever get into ATA shooting, you might consider one of the progressive loaders, but just shooting once or twice a week (100-200 rounds) and the 600 will be all the loader you'll ever need. Less chance for making a mess, and good for space limitations.
    -best fishes, -powderburn
     
  5. Trap2

    Trap2 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
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    3,685
    Location:
    Redding, California
    Ok.. I'm going to stick my neck out here and "suggest" a great receipe for what you are wanting to do. I'm assuming, of course, you are wanting to save as much money as possible with your reloads? Start with an Estate hull, use either a Fiocchi or Cheddite primer. Next, buy some Promo powder and drop 18gr. (weighed! not bushing) into the hull. On top of the powder, use either a Downrange Jammer XL 1oz wad, or a Green Duster 1 oz. wad. Some will say these wads are for a tapered hull, not a straight walled hull, but, they work just fine and will allow you to get a great finished crimp on your shell. Next, drop 450gr. (approx. 1-1/16oz.) of either #8 or 81/2 shot, crimp, and shoot. This is a great, low cost, killer 16 yard load. Hulls are free, Fiocchi primers are the cheapest you can buy, and Promo powder is not only the best value on the market, it is a great powder as well. This load will give you about 1180fps, with a pressure of under 10,000. Not only an excellent load to start with, it's also the one I use after 25 plus years of shooting registered targets. I use it for singles and my first shot on doubles... Just my experience... Dan Thome (Trap2)
     
  6. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
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    5,417
    Cuky, All very good advice above, but I will add that between the powders listed you can find all loads listed on the powder companies websites. Alliantpowder.com is the website for all Alliant's powders (the dot powders,Red dot,Green dot,Clay dot) and Hodgdon.com will get you powders for most of the rest. Win. powders,IMR's powders,and of course Hodgdon's powders as well. The biggest key in reloading is to keep the prices down. To do this you need to buy in bulk. 5000 primers and wads. 8 pounds of powder at a time. As much shot as you can lay your hands on (buy now lead prices are rising). Shipping is expensive for shot, and Primers and powder have a hazmat fee included on shipping because of the explosive risk involved. So it is best to find a local supplier that you can buy from. The reloaders at your club should be able to let you know where they buy from and include you in their next order, or whatever. Hodgdon's clay's powder is the best I have found and Hodgdon's website has far more data listed for different components to mix around and choose from. Noble Sport primers can be substituted for Win. AA primers on all loads and make them good choice because of their lower prices right now. You need to check your shot drops until you get them right. Mec reloaders will drop light shot weights and you may want to grind out the shot hole until it drops the shot weight you want. The powder drops need to be weighed as well. Mec has bushings that can be changed to change your powder drops, you need to buy these as the loader only comes with 3. Don't forget to pull the handle down and let up 5 times to simulate the shakeing the machine gets until the powder drops again, this will give you a good accurate amount of powder to weigh. As said never load shells until you find the data on one of the listed websites. You need to find how much powder to drop with the different components you are going to buy (primers,wads,powder. Keep the pressures under l0,000 psi on your loads as well. Best of Luck and Break-em all. Jeff
     
  7. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

    Joined:
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    As a beginner, try to get someone to show you the ropes firsthand. Stick with PUBLISHED DATA from the component or powder manufacturers. Use a scale to verify you are dropping the right amount of powder. Select loads under 9000 PSI or so. DO NOT SWAP COMPONENTS from what is listed in the data! Swapping just the primer can put you over the top of the established pressure limits. You never know just how such a substitution will affect pressures or performance.

    I would suggest Winchester Primers, Winchester WAA12 wads or a good clone, and either Red Dot or Green Dot powder to start. If you are hell bent on a 1200 fps 1 1/8 oz load, stick with Green Dot to start. If you would be loading 1oz loads, then the Winchester WAA12SL Pink wad or clone will do and Red Dot would be more suitable for the beginning.

    There are a lot of great powders out there. 700-X, Clays, American Select, International Clays, and a ton of others. There is a LOT of data for Red Dot and Green Dot and they are pretty consistent.

    If you have a choice, the Remington STS or Nitro hulls may be easier to load for you. The Winchester AA hulls of current manufacture may require some tweaking to prevent hull distortion. They tend to buckle or wrinkle the tubes if the loader isn't set up just right. The Remington Hulls are more forgiving. Even the Gun Club hulls would work fine.

    When in doubt, ask questions. The powder companies and Mec themselves are great resources for help.
     
  8. RV4driver

    RV4driver TS Member

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2009
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    134
    I just started loading shotshells this year. I have had many of these same questions. Here's some of what I've learned.

    AA shells, good. Remington STS shells, better, but usually harder to find. Estate and other cheapie shells, free, but require resizing each time you reload, and should be reloaded only once. Hey, that's why they're free.

    Promo powder is cheap. It also varies in density between different lots of powder. Weigh a few when you change lots #'s. Promo is a substitute for Red Dot, Clay-dot is a substitute for Clays, from the people that brought you Red dot and Green Dot.

    Cheddite primers are less expensive and more reliable than Win 209's. (In my Browning Special Trap). They no longer expand the primer pocket like they used to. They also are more flush than the Wins. My Browning lower barrel doesn't like the slightly recessed Win primers. New springs and longer firing pins, Cheddite still more consistant then the Win.

    All the various brand "substitute" wads for 1oz and 1 1/8 oz shot loads aren't created equal. If you look at the ClayBuster and Green and Blue Duster wads, you will see that the shot cup is different. This does make a difference, maybe not enough to cause a problem, but my 1oz loads work better in my reloader (Hornady 366) with the Claybuster vs. the Duster wads. I also had a bag of Dusters that had a some petals turned in, and I had to watch each and every wad to make sure that it didn't get squashed in when setting the wad. Huge PITA. Next bag was fine, go figure.

    Different primers make a significantly larger difference in shotshell load pressure than either pistol or rifle primers do in that end of the reloading biz.

    Different primers need a different setting pressure. Watch it.

    I've used 700X, great stuff, somewhat expensive per pound, but it uses less per load! And Alliant Promo, great stuff, cheap (relatively).

    Hope this helps somewhat!

    Jeff
    Ft. Collins, Co.
     
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