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Redoing concrete at Trap field - any thoughts?

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by DTrykow, Sep 19, 2010.

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  1. DTrykow

    DTrykow Active Member

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    Hi guys: We've decided to redo all of our concrete at our Trap field. We did two pours. The original one was done in the 1970's which was 16yd to the 18yd. The second one was done in the '80's which extended the field to the 27yd. The first pour is cracked and sunk the second is starting to show wear.
    We are starting to get quotes for the job and I'm also proposing to connect the 27yd stations as well. Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 to 25yds of concrete. 6" thick, road mix etc. We do have delivery trucks running on top of it to unload birds, supplies etc. We want to stop that due to the fact that that's what caused most of the damage. Any thoughts on width of concrete or anything else I can add in while I'm doing this? I am abit nervous that an average concrete guy is going to understand and replicate the field exactly. I have all of the ATA drawings and will be overseeing the project. Thanks for your thoughts. Dave T.
     
  2. g7777777

    g7777777 TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    pay a few extra bucks for fiber mesh

    dont pay for rebar- you dont need it

    have the junction lines actuallycut- you can rent a cutter yourself or maybe they do it -- cut it and then calk the cut lines with regular house clear calk- the 50 year type-- get it on sale at like menards or something-

    have a broom finish ,at least, for slip resistance

    if you want something different- make it colored- like green - you just mix that in at the surface- in fact that is very attractive

    regards from Iowa

    Gene
     
  3. treefrog

    treefrog TS Member

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    You might have guys who have access to lots of steel bar. You need to grade, drain, & stone, sounds like 4-6" of # 1 washed stone, compacted prior to concrete. Like every thing , Its the set up first.
     
  4. trim tab

    trim tab Active Member

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    Stamp the yardage in the concrete
     
  5. g7777777

    g7777777 TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Or buy brass numbers and put them in the concrete right as it hardens

    the numbers can be towards an outside corner- they dont need to be in the center front of each pad
     
  6. DTrykow

    DTrykow Active Member

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    How wide for the concrete? Currently it's 38" wide running from 16 to the 27. No ATA rules on that. Does it matter? We do have handicap shooters. We were thinking 48". Overkill?
    Dave T.
     
  7. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    Snowblowers love those brass numbers, have someone stand by to shoot them when they fly.

    HM
     
  8. rodbuster

    rodbuster TS Member

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    Don't waste your money on fibermesh, if you want to do the project right, use mesh or rebar. If you are going to connect the 27 yd stations by pouring concrete next to them, you should "dowel in" to the existing concrete to secure it to the new concrete.
     
  9. DTrykow

    DTrykow Active Member

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    rodbuster; All existing concrete will be removed. All new.
     
  10. rodbuster

    rodbuster TS Member

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    That is actually the best way to do it D. All new concrete is the way to go. You will need compacted stone under the concrete. The trick to the reinforcing is to make sure it is up in the pour. All too often you will see the reinforcing just lieing on the subgrade as the concrete is being poured, it must be either pulled up into the concrete as it is being poured, or "chaired up" beforehand.
     
  11. Neal Crausbay

    Neal Crausbay Member

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    Instead of 48" wide, make it 36" and extend them to provide at least 30 yards so you will be ready if in the future the 27 is no longer the maximum.

    Remember that the layout drawing is for the center line of the walks, not the outside edge.
     
  12. wireguy

    wireguy TS Member

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    Pour the pad solid, not walkway type, so that wheelchair shooters can change stations without having to go back to the 27, across and back up. For a new installation this is the only way to do it, wheelchair friendly and accessible.
    Keep the blasted vehicles off it.
     
  13. Bob Hawkes

    Bob Hawkes Well-Known Member

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    Dr. Trykow, I'm a cement head from the northeast. Your location will influence some of your requirements. We use hot-top because of ice and snow removal. I'm with the rodbuster on reinforcing and I would use chairs for rebar or mesh. Fibre mesh slabs will break and separate if your exposed to frost. I chuckled at the 1 foot comment for frost, ours is a 4 foot minimun. Good luck with your project.

    BTW There's a young lady on this forum in the mid-west who may know a good person on concrete flatwork who would be good for guidance. :)
     
  14. Jawhawker

    Jawhawker TS Member

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    Bob, he knows nothing, he sees nothing :)

    Actually I'm with the boys on the fiber mesh versus real steel. Use the steel and don't waste the dollars on mesh unless you also want to add it to the mix. Use steel. But as others have said, it don't do much good laying on the bottom.

    I would think the way to go especially since you have handicap shooters is to make a solid field rather than 4ft wide walkways.

    If your having trust issues with the individuals your trying to acquire then I would keep looking till I was comfortable. Clue here is the guy that tells you how great he is and can't shut up about himself is probably a good canidate not to hire.
     
  15. DTrykow

    DTrykow Active Member

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    Solid field. Never thought of that. Should I consider cement stations with asphalt in-between to cut cost? I'm also in the Northeast. Dave T.
     
  16. Setterman

    Setterman Well-Known Member

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    I'm with Bob, Martin, and rodbuster on the rebar vs fibre mesh. Fibre mesh is for "free floating" exterior slabs or interior slabs. The walkways of the trap field are narrow and long, and are guaranteed to crack. They will crack at your yardage saw joints as long as it is cut at least 1/3rd the concrete depth. Don't cut through the rebar. To keep unwanted cracks, you should saw it at every yardage mark and at least every 6' on your lateral walks.

    The rebar is not for strength. It controls shrinkage of the concrete as it cures and helps prevents cracking. Fibre mesh does the same thing, but in this case the added rigidness of the rebar will keep the concrete pads together if accessive frost tries to push the concrete apart. Rebar needs at least 1.5" of concrete coverage to work properly, and prevent it from rusting apart.
     
  17. Setterman

    Setterman Well-Known Member

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    Figure out your extra concrete $ and you may change your mind.
     
  18. andybull

    andybull Active Member

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    I think you will be very confused when you check with the folks here. Some know but are not from your geographical area, some don't know poop, others think they know.

    There must be clubs around yours. Find one that has the fields you like and ask who did them, see if they are still in business and deal with them

    Andy.
     
  19. trpshtr2001

    trpshtr2001 TS Member

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    By all means pour a solid pad. By the time you pay for all the forming with individual walkways, you can pour it solid. It is much easier to clear snow off of and to keep clean. I little bit of crown will keep it dry. Concrete is only as good as its base. Stone under the concrete is a must for drainage. I know I will get a lot of opposition on this one, but put a layer of insulation under the condrete to eliminating cracking. 30+ years of doing this is what I am basing my comments on. Good luck
     
  20. g7777777

    g7777777 TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Very interesting comments--

    regards from Iowa

    Gene
     
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