They work but you can do the same thing by adding weight to your gun. Alot of guys will take copper pipe that will fit in the stock bolt hole and fill it with lead. Then wrap electrical tape around it until it fits snug. Walla instant recoil reduction. Of course then there is the lighter loads that will help as well.
I've used both but I'm not so sure that the same amount of dead weight wouldn't be just as good? I'm not saying they don't work, in theory they should.
I use 2 "dead weights" in my MX-3 Special. Made with 7/8ths copper straight wall tubing filled with melted lead. Such a weight is instant acting at ignition where others must splash forward or slam forward against a return spring. Mine are silent when reducing felt recoil, the others slosh, make a boinking springy sound to convince you they are working. The stock MUST to the rear before the weights bottom out with most factory made recoil reducers! I like instant much better!! Factory made run the gamut in costs from 30 to 80 bucks, mine are a couple bucks, if that? In this case, cheap is FAR superior and you can prove it to yourself.
Any extra added weight does help, solid is quicker acting on recoil.
Dick, as you said, any weight added helps! Once upon a time, I had dual Edward's recoil reducers in one on my stocks! Did they help? Of course they did BUT, that whacking the comb away from the cheek on doubles is a PITA!
Here's a picture of various type of recoil reducers that Whiz White took apart to show how they actually work. Compare the time necessary for the internal weights to move forward in order to move the comb? That weight must move at least 3/8ths to a 1/2 inch and while that's happening, the gun has moved into your shoulder that amount, sliding past the internal weight?
Solid dead weight acts instantly, it doesn't move at all!! All it does it reduce the felt recoil instantly! I defy any maker of spring or liquid activated reducers to prove their works of art are better than my solid dead weights at reducing felt recoil! Reason they won't? They can't.
I have an Edwards Recoil Reducer that I will sell for $25 delivered. It measures 4 1/2" long by 7/8" diameter. Please send me a Private Message if interested. Thanks, Bob
None of these recoil reducers actually "reduce" the recoil, they just lengthen the time it takes for the recoil energy to be transmitted to you. OTOH, that's the same reason a gas operated auto is "softer" shooting or for that matter it's the same theory behind a simple rubber recoil pad.
In my doubles gun, a 682G sporting, a 7/8" dia.x 6 7/8" 1/2" copper pipe fit perfect and I filled it with melted lead and it weighs 1.5 lbs. According to a recoil calculator, that is 2 lbs less free recoil by making a 7 1/2 lb. gun weigh 9 lbs. Best part, it's free.
I had an Edwards recoil reducer in an MX-8 Combo that I shot years ago, never thought much of it until I took it out, man could I tell the difference then ... I don't recall it being a problem when shooting doubles but its been many years since I used it ... The Edwards was actually adjustable and if you got it in backwards or any way but the way the directions told you to, you knew it right away ... I still have it around here someplace, saw it a while back but be damned if I know where it is ... WPT ... (YAC) ...
The recoil will not be reduced with any of the products of this design. What we have is actual recoil and felt or perceived recoil. The actual recoil is the same. The felt or perceived recoil is what these products strive to achieve.
leadvail, you are the first guy here to try that method that has posted any results. I use two a tad shorter in my gun. Mine weighs 11#s and 5 ounces. Gun feels like shooting a BB gun!!
There is some good experience and info here on this forum if you have high enough boots!
I pasted a calculator for those who want to know ACTUAL RECOIL and not FELT.
Mine was reduced by over 2 lbs.
Runem"
Bob
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