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Recoil pad grinding question

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by Mike K P, Jun 17, 2007.

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  1. Mike K P

    Mike K P Member

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    I have a kickeez pad I need to sand one side down slightly. I want to do this while on the gun so I can keep remounting it as I work. It's not much at all and it's on the back edge so my question is what do I use? Sand paper? if so what grit? Other ideas? Thanks. Mike.
     
  2. Tailbuster

    Tailbuster TS Member

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    This is right from their site.

    Sorbothane® is a polymer (not rubber), does not grind like rubber, therefore will not take the abuse of rubber. Always start with a clean belt or disc. For the best results use 1700 to 2500 RPM. The initial grinding should be with a #120 grit sandpaper and rotate the pad as you grind so you are not grinding in the same area for an extended period. Finish grinding should be with a #220 grit sandpaper.

    For optional extra smooth hand finishing use #400 grit sandpaper with a small drop of oil or WD-40 and light pressure. It is not necessary to over finish the pad.


    john
     
  3. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    I did as john stated, but i removed from stock. I applied masking tape to recoil pad then installed on gun. Useing a very fine pen or a razor blade trace around stock marking pad. then remove and grind. down to mark. then you can touch up with fine grit. I get mine very close then just leave it alone. I dont put stock in any danger at all. no sanding near my gun. Take your time do a "hunting gun" first.
     
  4. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    Heres a $5 tip/trick...take the pad off and put it in the freeze for a day..it will then sand like a piece of wood
     
  5. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    funny i did that to drill a clean hole through mine. never thought to do it for sanding....duh
     
  6. Ruck

    Ruck Well-Known Member

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    You guys crack me up freezing Kickeez pads.....LOLLOLLOL!!!

    Ken Rucker
     
  7. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    That really frosts my Butt....Pad! Sorry I just couldn't resist a really bad pun. :)

    Freezing the pad is a great way to go. The last Gooey style pads I worked with were frozen before sanding. It made for a really great finish and I didn't get covered with too much of the "crumbs".
     
  8. Mike K P

    Mike K P Member

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    Great info, I like the freezer idea. Thank you. Mike.
     
  9. GordonWood421

    GordonWood421 TS Member

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    Mike ,

    If you are addressing the removal of a few RCH , get a rubber auto-body sanding block and 400 grit and "SAND" in one direction just as you would remove wood . The lube is a good suggestion that I'd save for the last "H" .

    Charlie
     
  10. Ed Y

    Ed Y TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    Are you kidding? I'll bet that Ken doesn't finish his Kickeez pads that way. I know that I don't.

    Ed Yanchok
     
  11. Ruck

    Ruck Well-Known Member

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    Ed and Shootlow.....I guess we better buy us a BIG freezer....LOL!!! I often have to install 20-25 pads a day at a big shoot. How could I do that in my trailer if they had to be frozen? Get real, people.

    Ken Rucker
     
  12. Big Jack

    Big Jack Well-Known Member

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    Ken, I understand the problem the home "craftsman" faces but just remember, he's not as well equipt as you and doesn't have the experience you undoubtly have in doing this process. He's trying to do himself and probably with the intent of saving a few bucks. You or one of your counterparts will probably get the final correction required if he screws up. Be gentle on the well meaning do it yourselfer.

    Big Jack
     
  13. skeet_man

    skeet_man Well-Known Member

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    does the freezer method work equally as well for gooey pads?
     
  14. Ruck

    Ruck Well-Known Member

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    Jack, no malice in my posts for the diy guys at all. I just think it's funny that someone keeps perpetrating this freezer thing on all these sites. It is totally unnecessary. Besides, the heat from sanding thaws the pad way faster than you can finish the work, so you'd have to freeze, sand, refreeze, sand, refreeze.....etc. The biggest mistake most people make is trying to sand the pad with the wrong grit. On a belt or disc sander, or by hand, do all the initial work with no finer than 60 grit. Then hand sand with a block and 120 grit to remove the rough sanding marks from the base. Then hand sand with 220 grit on a sanding block and finish up by polishing the base with 4/0 steel wool. Most of us also break the sharp edges with a scotch-brite wheel. I can do 3 pads an hour , start to finish, like this.

    Ken
     
  15. ANTRIM UDF

    ANTRIM UDF TS Member

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    Aha, I knew if we kept freezing our pads Ruck would divulge his secrets!!!!!!!
     
  16. omahasportingsupply

    omahasportingsupply TS Member

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  17. Beancounter

    Beancounter TS Member

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    The use of coarse grit is not a secret. If you followed Shawn's link to Gooey, you will see the same advice. Most people find out they just don't have the patience. Most trapshooters don't even clean guns - forget actually working on them.
     
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