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Questions on a Ruger 10-22

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Catpower, May 23, 2013.

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  1. Catpower

    Catpower Molon Labe TS Supporters

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    A while back I bought my wife a Ruger 10-22 from a friend it was NIB never fired, neat little gun laminated Manlicher (sp) stock stainless steel, but it shoots sporadically, I have cleaned it thoroughly and is still misfires, when it does it looks like the bottom of the bolt it hitting the top on the next shell in the magazine. I have bought different magazines for it but they all do the same

    Is there something I am missing, apparently so because it keeps doing it

    Any suggestions?

    Thank in advance Rick
     
  2. wolfram

    wolfram Well-Known Member

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    All brands of ammo have the same result? Some 10/22s are a bit particular, especially when new. A good test is to run some CCI mini-mags solids through it. If those don't funtion nothing will and its time to look into the mechanics like how is the fresh round contacting the feed ramp or is the bolt velocity too fast/slow.
     
  3. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    Sell it to me...I'll figure it out, then you can use the money to buy one that works
     
  4. Tripod

    Tripod Well-Known Member

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    Iowa man!!
    I have one that has always worked well. Accurate as the dickens, but has a terrible trigger. I put a 1" high power scope on it and it would shoot a ragged hole at 50 feet.
     
  5. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    Can you describe in better detail what happens when it fails? A misfire is when it fails to fire the chambered cartridge.
     
  6. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

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    My Weatherby's do the same thing. The bolt catches on the next bullet seam, of the casing in the magazine. If I pull the magazine out just slightly the bolt moves forward without catching.
     
  7. 22hornet

    22hornet Well-Known Member

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    Tripod, put a Volquartsen trigger kit in it, and your trigger woes are over.
     
  8. Catpower

    Catpower Molon Labe TS Supporters

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    It does two thing but not necessarily on the same round, sometimes it will just click and it doesn't look like the firing pin makes a deep enough dent on the primer and then sometimes the bolt kind of scrapes the top of the next round and it doesn't close all the time, or the bolt doesn't open far enough to eject the spent casing

    I have tried quite a few different makes of ammo, no CCI, but when it makes the small ding on the primer I can put the shells in any of my Brownings or Remingtons or Marlins and never a miss fire

    I guess I need to look at it closer, but it ain't my gun LOL
     
  9. johnpe

    johnpe Member

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    I've tried two of the 10/22's. I haven't had the problem encountered by Catpower, neither would group any ammo, including RWS Match, in less than 2-3 inches at 50 yards. My target guns will stack the same ammo into very small groups. I bought the second one because of hearing that Ruger had the accuracy thing licked. I don't know their problems, but while I liked the way they felt and operated, a Marlin bolt action I bought new about three years ago for just over $100 will shoot loss leader stuff into 1-1 1/2 inches without fail at the same distance.

    Johnpe
     
  10. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    Have you ensured the action is completely clean?

    Check the ejector on the trigger group to make sure it is not bent and causing the bolt to drag. You can even remove it to test, because there is a backup ejector on factory 10-round magazines.

    Have you tried different magazines?

    Do you have a friend with a 10-22 that you can swap the bolt and trigger group with, one at a time, to isolate the problem?
     
  11. Catpower

    Catpower Molon Labe TS Supporters

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    Brian I have tried a bunch of different mags, I don't know of anybody with one to swap parts on, I will check it out closer

    I really don't mind it because when it screws up I get to shoot more turtles, we have a little contest ever night, I have about 15 other .22 she could use but she likes the 10-22
     
  12. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    Are these factory mags or aftermarket?
     
  13. Catpower

    Catpower Molon Labe TS Supporters

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    Both 10 and 25 round, it does seem to work a little better with the ten rounders but the way she shoots she needs the extras

    Glad she never gets on here to read what I wrote LOL
     
  14. wolfram

    wolfram Well-Known Member

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    Almost sounds like the magazines are seating too close to the bolt. How far does the gun kick out the empties when it does fire?

    Also - its not very sporting to give your shooting pal a gun that doesn't work right. I suspect you are really interested in making this a fair game;)
     
  15. Skeetbender

    Skeetbender Active Member

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    In my experience with many a 10-22 and Ruger Mark 22 pistols.

    They can be very ammo fussy, the go to ammo if you can find some are CCI MINI MAGS for function testing and break in. After break in you can try some of the cheapo bulk crap and see if you get by with it. Generally accuracy, function and reliability do suffer but every once in a while you will find something cheap your particular rifle likes.

    The bad part right now is the ammo situation for 22s sucks.

    Factory mags have been the best, most reliable and last the longest I have tried them all.

    I put a VQ extractor in every one right out of the box. Cheap and EZ.

    Go read up at www.rimfirecentral. com

    If after that no go, time to call Ruger. Good Luck
     
  16. Michael.B

    Michael.B Member

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    Take a look at Rimfire Central. They are a great source for rimfire information.

    Michael B.
     
  17. Catpower

    Catpower Molon Labe TS Supporters

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    Thanks I will check with them, after I check the stuff you said to check here

    Wolfram it trows the casings out quite a ways, I am going to disassemble it and check the other stuff suggested

    Thanks again
     
  18. Kerz

    Kerz Member

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    Did you call Ruger? Warranty?
    Vic
     
  19. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    One thought comes to mind... The firing pin is made from stamped sheet metal. It has a shoulder stop on it to prevent it from peening the chamber face over when dry firing. Because of the sporadic firing, this might be an area to look at.

    Remove the bolt, then use your thumbnail or a small screwdriver to gently push the rear of the firing pin. The firing pin should travel freely without binding. It has a spring, but tension is not excessive. If you feel any binding or roughness, the firing pin may have a rough edge, burrs, or even not be totally flat. You can remove it by pushing out a roll pin towards the rear, then check flatness and if required, polish it up. Don't touch the two ends of the firing pin. You do not want to remove any material from them.

    The rear of the firing is just slightly less than flush on the rear of the bolt when pushed fully forward. The front of the firing pin is slightly less than flush when push full forward - not more than three sheets of writing paper. If it is recessed more than three sheets when pushed fully forward, that might invite light strikes.

    Note that when disassembled, what LOOKS like a stop shoulder is actually a shoulder that engages the firing pin spring. The actual stop is the rear of the elongated slot that the roll pin goes through. If the firing pin is not going forward enough, it is possible to remove material from the rear of the slot. This is not a place to get hog wild with material removal.

    Also note that Ruger is now using a roll pin to retain the firing pin. This replaces an earlier solid pin. The early pins could get worn or even deformed from excessive dry firing, but were easily replaced, though they might have to be punched out if deformed. I have not heard any reports of the roll pins having problems. Maybe the steel is more forgiving since it is spring steel. But in and of itself that will not cause light strikes unless a burr is introduced.

    Make sure the cocking handle seats fully in the bolt, and that the top of the cocking handle is below the top of the bolt. Mine clears by about two sheets of paper. If the cocking handle is above the top of the bolt, this would force the bolt closer to the magazine.

    Make sure the bolt is fully closing. If it is not, that will increase the distance from the firing pin to the cartridge rim, giving light strikes.

    Make sure the hammer is not binding. You can push the hammer much lower than its cocked position. If it does not then there may be something binding.

    Make sure the trigger group ejector is not bent or dragging on the bottom of the bolt. You can actually remove it for testing. It's a secondary ejector. The primary ejector is actually a very small sharp shoulder on the factory mag. (Not all aftermarket mags have this ejector.) The main purpose of the secondary ejector is for ejecting a cartridge when the mag is removed. (And this is something people should keep in mind... I've had to dress this mag ejector face on a couple of very old, well work factory mags when they became rounded. This is also why some aftermarket mags eject poorly - they're depending on the secondary ejector.)

    Wish you were in my area. I'd be happy to diagnose your 10-22 and swap parts to isolate the trouble.

    BTW, if you are using cheap Remington ammo to test, all bets are off. That ammo has intermittent failures to fire in even the best quality guns.
     
  20. Catpower

    Catpower Molon Labe TS Supporters

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    Thanks Brian I was thinking it might have been something in the firing pin area, I will check out the stuff you wrote about

    And no I will never buy any bulk Remington .22LRs, I bought a bunch of them a while back and they were pathetic, multiple misfires in .22's that were bullet proof

    I was just going to order a new firing pin from Brownell's, figured it might have been a RCH too short but I will check what you said to

    Thanks again
     
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