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Question for MEC Automate know it alls/owners

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by superump, Nov 10, 2010.

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  1. superump

    superump TS Member

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    I just bought a MEC 9000 E Automate and am NOT happy with Mecs directions esp. for operation. The directions are vague on putting it together and terrible about actual operation and troubleshooting. When pressing the buttons and machine is comming down or all the way down and you blow a fuse what is the easiest way to get the reloader back up and in cycle again. I am grabbing the accentric rod and pulling it back up manually and it is hard to do. There has to be an easier way to get it back up on top and in sync again. I have screwed up twice ooooops I mean the machine has screwed up twice ha, and I think there has to be an easier way to get the loader back up to the top. Other than that I love the machine and even surprised at how quiet it is. Alaways learning curves where the machine has to learn and understand me. Also I read somewhere in this forum that the mec fuses are not big enough and blow to easy. The machine came with one amp fuses and what amp fuse should I go up to? Thanks in advance for any help.
     
  2. superump

    superump TS Member

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    In the hard to underatnd direction there is something about tapping the button as you turn it back on it will go back up but I could not get it to work that way.
     
  3. Mike Michalski

    Mike Michalski Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
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    Location:
    Troy Michigan
    Call MEC 920 387 4500
     
  4. AveragEd

    AveragEd Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
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    5,482
    Location:
    Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania
    I have one of the AutoMate IIs made and sold by the inventor of the machine. His instructions were easy to understand but I've never seen MEC's. I use one-amp fuses and have only had two open in four+ years and both times, I caused it.

    Getting the machine back to the top position is easy if you rotate the crank wheel to which the rod is attached. Just move it slowly near the top so you can stop as soon as the top position light comes on.

    Ed
     
  5. wireguy

    wireguy TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    3,715
    Getting the machine to cycle properly is a combination of getting the magnet on the "flywheel" located correctly, and getting the rod length properly adjusted. Then you also have to adjust the collet and the rest of the stations on the press. I would start with the flywheel. When you activate you want that rod connection point to go 180 or ever so slightly past 180 degrees, that is, straight down. Too much and it's hard for the motor to pull it back and you blow fuses. Then work with the rod length. Push the upper connection point "ears" manually full up and, with the wheel connection point straight up, adjust the rod length to where the connection pin just slips through. Cycle it a few times to make sure everything is basically working, then adjust again if you observe anything wrong. Load some shells. Watch your primer knock out, primer setting and crimps for clues to whether your rod length is too short, too long, or just right. Check along the way to make sure the flywheel is rotating to the exact bottom of the wheel. Too little rotation and your stations don't operate properly, too far and the wheel goes over center, and you blow fuses. Remember if something goes wrong you can always slap the slide switch off. As Ed said, don't pull the rod to manually return it, turn the power off and rotate the wheel along it's outer circumference.
     
  6. superump

    superump TS Member

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    Thanks guys this info has helped.
     
  7. CharlesR1100

    CharlesR1100 TS Member

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    I have an ATS original type unit. It used two fuses, both on the left side of the unit. (Press buttons are on the side, not the front.)

    One fuse had a white stripe painted by ATS on it. It was marked 7A-125V. No problem.

    The second fuse was marked as 1 Amp. It was a problem. After a dozen 1 Amp fuses firing for no apparent reason, I replaced that 1 Amp fuse with a 2 Amp, 250 Volt, 5X20 MM, GMA type, fast acting fuse from Radio Shack, part 270-1052. End of fuse problems.

    Unit is now 4 years old. Going like a steam engine. Loads >12,000 12 ga shells a year. Best reloading item I have had or seen. Just keep it clean and lubricated. That is a lot of monkey motion.

    Warning!! Do not underestimate the torque of the electric motor. It is very strong...and immediate, as with any electric engine. It will crush shells, or fingers, if caught in a pinch point. It will do so effortlessly.

    BTW, I replaced the original 7 Amp fuse, unfired, with a 2 Amp just to see what would happen. Unit worked without a hitch to load 100 shells. I then put the 7 Amp back.

    I love my ATS Auto Mate!
     
  8. likemybrownings

    likemybrownings Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2010
    Messages:
    528
    Superump,
    I recommend a 60 amp fuse!!!,,, this will cause lights in the entire neighborhood to dim, your main breaker at your house to trip then consecuentlly a wife to "beotache" excuse me,,, complain,,, but if you are reloading or playing with shooting stuff, GO for it

    Dave Butzier
    Ohio licsensed electrician ,

    P.S. disclamer:::: dont do a 60 amp fuse
     
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