XT has been shot over 80,000. Sometimes it will shoot several shots from the bottom barrel and then have a soft strike. Primer barely indented. It may soft strike five or six times and then shoot for a few more rounds. Put the soft strike shells back in and it will usually fire them.
I have removed the frame from the stock, removed the pins, cleaned and buffed the pins. The pin IS pitted on the end a bit. I took a pin from my other Citori and it is SHORTER than the XT pin and has similar pitting. The return spring is in tact and clean. I used a Q tip and lacquer thinner and cleaned the pin hole as well as I could. I can find no burrs but the hole is on an angle and I cant see it very well. The hammers hit HARD and flush with the frame. The pin at the hammer end is not battered.
At 80k rounds, you're LONG past the point where all the springs (including the mainsprings and firing pin springs) firing pins, and other consumable parts should have been replaced.
Your internal parts are worn out, and need to be replaced.
This may be a helpful article for you. I just "tuned up" an XS Skeet. I am pretty sure the part numbers are the same for the XT Trap as both are Citori receivers. Took me about an hour to do. I do recommend making the tool from a screwdriver to remove the main spring and guide. Pretty easy do it yourself job. I called Browning last wednesday at noon and ordered the parts i wanted and they were on my door step on friday. http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=261153
Oh yeah. The hammer pins have a very thin screwdriver slot. I have a set of brownells mag tip screwdrivers and had to file one of the thinnest down a little thinner to get it in the slot correctly. Just an FYI in case you decide to do this yourself. I have a couple more tips if your interested. Just let me know.
David
I shoot NEW and Reloads. The outcome is the same. The gun WAS updated at the Grand three years ago at the Grand. New springs and pins. The hammer fall is hard and when the round fires the primer strike is definitely deep enough. I do not think spring strength is the problem. The hammer face contacts the frame around the spring seat flush with no battering. The gun was bought in 2001. It may have had shorter pins but supposedly Browning replaced them a few years back. I still think there is something, some burr maybe, impeding the pin movement but I can't see or feel anything. She's going to a gunsmith this weekend. I bought another gun! AND 80,000 rounds--nope, that is just registered targets. I suspect it has somewhere around 100,000 plus. I do take it off the stock, clean and inspect it yearly and have it looked at by Browning while at the Grand once in a while.
If I can find out what the problem is, I will send a note. Thanks for the GOOD HONEST advise!!!
Hey Mike, that's a good looking tool for the mainspring guides. I will have to make one like it next time I need to replace the mainsprings. There is really not any big trick to the hammer pins if u watch what you are doing. Once you get them ALL the way down thru the hammer screw them down snug then back them off about one half turn or until they will let the ejector trip rods slide forward in its slot. The ejector trip rods retain the hammer pins and keep them from backing out. Thanks for the pic of your tool. I appreciate it.
I had this problem with firing Win primer but it will work with Rem primer. so I changed the main hammer springs and it worked like new. When compare the new springs to the old one you will see that the old are about 1/4 depressed (shorter), so I change those springs every year and each cost about $2.50.
Sent you a PM on your issue. I am not certified gunsmith but I have worked on a couple of these. Not bad all in all to work on but time consuming. Also a if you are will to sacrifice a flat head. Notch the middle, it will help miles on those springs.
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