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PW Reloading Troubles

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Kerz, Jun 12, 2010.

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  1. Kerz

    Kerz Member

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    Need some advise on a PW900. Just recently the press has begun to rollover the nose of the loaded shell. This prevents the finished shell from being pushed thru the sizing die and ejected. I've made several attempts to adjust starter and final crimp dies.
    Also how much taper is enough?
    Any help appreciated.
    Vic
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like you have way too much crimp pressure on the machine.

    Assuming your loader is like my 900s and assuming that it is in otherwise good operating condition...

    For AA hulls adjust the final crimp die so that there is 7/8" of thread above the top cross head (measure to the top surface of the crosshead, NOT to the nut), back the taper nut all the way up and then put in 1 full turn as a starting point. If the crimps look OK but you need more taper, add it to the taper nut 1/2 turn at a time. If the crimps are too shallow or too deep, make adjustments 1/8 turn at a time.

    I've found that the smooth crimp starting cone PW sells for paper hulls does a better job at starting the tapers on AA hulls than the 8 point cones do.

    MK
     
  3. 333t

    333t Member

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    Looks like you may have to high a wad/shot column. I had the same problem until I used a shorter wad that allowed a good crimp. Yours look like they may be forcing the hull sideways, instead of down, just like mine did.

    Phil
     
  4. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    several reasons but the main thing is get a tool from gary Bulley
    [​IMG]
     
  5. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    I put no taper on the new AA's. It will cause the hull to buckle.
     
  6. 1brucem

    1brucem TS Member

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    I don't know what the tool from Gary Bulley is, can you tell me? Thanks
     
  7. skeezix

    skeezix Member

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    I get this more often than I like loading .410.

    A couple things - on the .410 if I'm going to fast, the outer knockout sleeve does not seat down on the die before the knockout pin itself starts pushing the shell out - mushroom every time. Check to make sure the knockout die is clean and not jambed up - and make sure that the spring is in good condition.

    I also think that if you get crud in the dies themselves, the shells take a bit too much to drive them out - that leads to mushrooms also. I just cleaned all my dies with scotchbrite and then a coat of table saw wax (top-cote) I also put a better brush in the die cleaning station.

    john
     
  8. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    I agree with UNKKNOW1:

    In your photo, it looks like you are using either the wrong wad, or you are using a powder that has too much volume, or too much shot. Have you changed powder lately? I'd check the powder volume by weight and the shot too.

    Also, the dies you show are 2.36" tall, and the newer style of dies are about 2.03" tall. The 2.03's are what is known as Tru-Crimp. Your dies are of the old 800B types and are no longer made or available.

    I recommend no more that about 30º on the precrimp. And, regarding wad height, I also recommend that you error on the side of NOT seating the wad deep enough. Seating the wad such that the top of the each pedals are as high, if not higher, that the crimp ring at the base of the hull's fingers... this is to say that the wad should be seated as high at 2 3/4".

    Lastly, use a short piece of wooden dowel or a ¼" drive 3/8" socket and place on top of the mushroomed shell at station #8 to easily eject the hull from the die.

    Incidentally, I also made some of the devices as suggested to use, however, one MUST be careful when using these to NOT gouge/marr/bend the cup on the ejection station, #8. I you are not careful you can mess us the cup and/or die.

    View attachment 248540

    WW
     
  9. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    The tool from Gary will not stop this from happening but it sure will make your life easier when it does. It makes the removal of a stuck shell easy. As far as the problem goes I agree that it is due to wrong wad, too much powder or shot for the wad.
     
  10. B.C.

    B.C. Member

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    another thought do you have the right shot bushing in there ? B.C.
     
  11. David P.

    David P. TS Member

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    I don't think it is anything you are doing. I have been using a PW800 CVT for years. I have the same problem with AA hulls (AA only!). It doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen. If you don't want to deal with it by using one of above mentioned tricks to remove the offending hull, don't load AA hulls. The latter is my choice! David
     
  12. Ahab

    Ahab Well-Known Member

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    Looks to me like you don't have enough pressure on the crimp station.

    The crimper is a multi pats setup. the outside is a 'clamp' and also it forms the taper. Above it is a spring and a seat that has a hex nut that will adjust the pressure. finally there is a final crimp ram that finishes it.

    The hex nut has a tendancy to back off and without enough spring pressuer, the mouth of the hull will flare out.

    My PW will produce finished AA shells that look like factory crimps.
     
  13. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Ih/when using the new style AA on a P/W, I recommend lowering your precrimper about 1/8". This seems to solve all the problems.

    Also, the I prefer to reload (I only reload once-fireds) is the OLD style AA, the Nitro and SST hulls. I occasionally reload the new-style AA hulls, but have to lower the precrimer as mentioned above.

    The BEST HULL is the Federal Paper.

    Whiz
     
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