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PW adjustment

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by ffweaver, Apr 10, 2011.

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  1. ffweaver

    ffweaver TS Member

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    Can anyone tell me why I am loosing shot out of my shells when they are crimped?
    How do I adjust the crimper? Have the pre-crimp down pretty far. The final station came loose and I am not sure how to adjust. Very small hole in the center of the crimp when done that does not readily loose shot but when the shells are crimped in the machine 2 or 3 bb's spill out every shell. Thanks Tim
     
  2. KooJo

    KooJo Member

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    Tim try this it worked for me
    Joe Kuzma Alaska

    Ponsness / Warren® Troubleshooting
    and adjusting the crimp station

    If you are using a Ponsness/Warren reloader, pay particular attention to the outside housing spring tension on the final crimp station. The tension on this particular spring affects how the crimp is closed.

    The spring needs to be adjusted so there is just enoungh tension to push the edges of the hull sufficiently closed before the center ram, which is fixed to the tooling die, flattens the crimp closed. If the spring has insufficient tension, a hole will be left in the exact center of the pie crimp. Too much tension and the hull will develop creases.

    The spring tension also adjusts the tapering on the end of the hull. This taper, combined with the full-length resizing die found on Ponsness/Warren reloaders, helps the load chamber easily.

    Ponsness/Warren reloaders have a very unique, and frustrating little trick, and you will never find it unless you know about it. Once you know about it, you will not let it stop you again.

    At the final crimp station, there’s a chance that a little piece of plastic, sheared off of an old and crusty crimp will get lodged between the spring-loaded outside collar and the finish crimp ram. Once that happens, you will not be able to produce a crimp for love or money. To fix it, loosen the spring tension all the way, push the collar up manually, and extract the plastic bit or whatever may be jammed up in there, holding the collar out of position by a fraction of an inch.
    Copyright © Ballistic Products Inc. 2006
     
  3. ffweaver

    ffweaver TS Member

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    Thanks Joe, I will try to adjust the spring tension. Do you know how to tell when the center ram is adjusted correctly? Tim
     
  4. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    If you're not losing shot out of the small hole in the finished crimp then the shot could be coming out of the shell during the crimping process itself.

    Is the level of the shot down about 3/8" down inside the hull after it's dropped?

    Is the wad ram adjusted so the ends of the wad petals are down inside the hull to where the crimp shoulder starts after the wad is inserted?

    Are you using the right wad for the shot weight you're trying to drop?

    MK
     
  5. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    You may have too much wad pressure, I would loosen the knurled nut and with a screw driver turn the screw to the left ( up) one turn and try it, you can always put it back
     
  6. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    If he had too much wad pressure the shot cup would be sunk, the shot level would be low in the hull and the crimps would be dished.

    He says that the shot comes out during the crimp, not a week later.

    MK
     
  7. skeezix

    skeezix Member

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    How does the overall length of your shell compare to factory?

    john
     
  8. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    If shot is oozing out at the PRE-CRIMP stage the wad is up too high. I seat my wads higher than normally, but shot is never visible in PRE-CRIMP.

    High shot at PRE-CRIMP is indicative of either the wrong wad for the components you are using, or incorrect components for the wad being used.

    If you are getting a hole in the middle of the FINAL crimp, then the above is not the problem, but you must lower the PRE-CRIMP assembly a small amount. This folds over more plastic that is used to make a proper crimp.

    If your machine is an 800B, 800C, or 800CVT, you are not going to be able to raise the seating depth... unless you install the wad seating upgrade. This replaces the wad pressure apparatus which consists of the seating shaft, knurled nut, housing, etc. Wad Pressure is a thing of the past, long past - it went out of existence with the death of fiber wads.

    WW<BR>
    P/W Distributor
     
  9. likes-to-shoot

    likes-to-shoot Well-Known Member

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    I had the wad too high like Whiz stated above. The shot would spill when the shell plate rotated and stopped. I kept lowering the wad a little at a time until the shot quit spilling so I was assured that there is no wad pressure.

    Bill
     
  10. ffweaver

    ffweaver TS Member

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    Thank you all for your help. Lots of good information. I am new to reloading shot shells as you may have guessed. I am using the right wad for the 1oz loads I am reloading in AA hulls. The shells are right at the length of a factory shell now that I raised the ram on the final crimp station. This seems to have solved the shot squeezing out during final crimp, however I still have a hole left in the center of the crimp that is just smaller that what #8 shot will go through. Is this ok or should I try for a fully closed crimp? I tried increasing the spring tension on the out side collar on the final crimp station but it is hit or miss. Havent tried to decrease it yet to see what that does. Again pre-crimp is set pretty low. I don't want to adjust so many things that I am in no mans land with this PW 900 reloader. Thanks for your help. Tim
     
  11. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    A small hole won't hurt anything; it's the crimp shoulder depth that manages the combustion pressure. If the shot stays in, shoot them.

    If you want to try to eliminate the hole, one of the easier ways is to replace the 8-point crimp started with the smooth cone model that P-W sells for paper hulls. It gathers just a bit more plastic into the crimp to close the hole. I use the smooth cone for ALL my shells on all my 900s. If you lower the crimp starter too much you'll end up creating new shoulders on the crimp and they'll come out wavy.

    If you want to try an adjustment, look at the final crimp tool and you'll see the big coil spring on it. At the top of the spring is a nut (this is all under the top crosshead). Try turning the nut down 1/4-1/2 turn and see how the crimps look.

    MK
     
  12. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    ffweaver , lower your crimp starter a little till the hole is down to about 1/8 dia. That should get you close. Fine tune it till the petals just touch after the final crimp and the hole will be very small. Adjust for the AA's and every thing else should be fine.
     
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