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PW 800 B

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Mike McVietty, Apr 7, 2009.

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  1. Mike McVietty

    Mike McVietty TS Member

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    I am buying a used PW 800 B reloader what are the good and bad points of this machine is there anything I need to watch for. Thanks for your input.
     
  2. kolartarget

    kolartarget Member

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    none its a great machine
     
  3. Gross Man

    Gross Man Member

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    I have three and really like them. It takes a little getting used to. Measuring the powder drop is a little tricky. Whiz posted a fix that looks really great. I am going to modify mine. Once a hull is in the machine you have to complete the cycle to get it out. I learned to deal with that. Billy
     
  4. jagrdawger

    jagrdawger TS Member

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    They are hard to get a good crimp with on AAHS hulls because the hulls are shorter. They work great on REM hulls.
     
  5. Gross Man

    Gross Man Member

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    Jagrdawer - Is that all gauges or just 28. I still am reloading the old AAs and they look good. I know the 28 ga HS has three different lengths, and that causes a problem. Billy
     
  6. Jollytrapshooter

    Jollytrapshooter Member

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    A friend and I just bought one. The only problem we found is if the crimp starter isn't tight, it will have a tendency to not hit the hull right and mess up your crimp. But as long as it is tight, there's no problems. And I don't know if this is a problem for anyone else, but ours made the crimps bulge. We found it was because the crimp die wasn't flat, instead, it had a raised ring on the outer edge, so when it pushed the crimp down, it wasn't pushing flat in the middle. But that was fixed with a few minutes on the lathe. Otherwise, it beats a MEC by a long shot and are great machines. Hope this helps, Josh.
     
  7. YUKONJACK

    YUKONJACK TS Member

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    There is a possibility that the wire loop guides on the crimp are not functioning properly,Make sure that when they engage that the starter is revolving to its proper point and will revolve to the old crimp folds.My 800 B
    is operated by one of Spolar's hydraulic set-ups and it works perfect.I have three stand-by machines just in case I need some parts.I suggest that every-one that has one try to pick-up an old one that isn't being used that you can get cheap just for parts.Hope this helps.Yukon Jack
     
  8. Jollytrapshooter

    Jollytrapshooter Member

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    Jack, the wire guides were the first thing we checked, they were a little bent, but weren't the whole problem. It turned out that the bolt that goes through the bearing to the actual crimp starter was loose, and when it came down on top of the hull, would get cock-eyed and crush that half of the hull. After it was tightened up and I remade the crimper, it now pumps out shell after shell that looks better (and is way cheaper) than factory. I'm not too worried about parts, can make pretty much anything on these machines with a mill or lathe. Josh
     
  9. Prescott Gene

    Prescott Gene Member

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    They are great machines. I had a 800C (a really early one that was marked with the 800B tag but the serial number started with a C). Between hunting and Trap loads, I probably loaded over 100,000 rounds. Never had a problem except operator error. When I first bought it I did break a metal arm that was made out of sintered(?) iron. It was designed to break if there was a jam. It is about 5 inches long and about 1 inch wide. Never did find the problem. I panicked and brazed it back together while I waited for a replacement. Installed the new one and never had another problem. I would still be using it if i were reloading.

    The 800C model made tapered crimps.

    Gene
     
  10. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Be aware that P/W is no longer supplying parts for the 800B, 800C, and 800CVT. Only some parts from an 800 Plus (current model) may work on the above.

    The preferable one is one with the Tru-Crimp (taper crimp) and this can be distinguished by the overall die height. The 2½" tall die is a Tru-Crimp, whereas the 2 3/4" one is the old original style.

    Some of these 800B machines can be about 40 years old. Also, you cannot change gauges in these without changing the crosshead and when the supply of their crossheads dwindle, then there will be no more. You *can* use the 800 Plus crosshead, however.

    You can no longer get the end caps, should you break one and that's a big deal because the crosshead links are attached to the end caps as well as the operating handle. The primer seating assembly will not be replaced when they run out of them. The new brass assembly for the 800 Plus does not work in the 800B.

    I am getting to the point that I am not going to rebuild the 800B's any longer due to the lack of available parts.

    Whiz White<BR>
    P/W Distributor
     
  11. jagrdawger

    jagrdawger TS Member

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    Grass Man

    My only experience is with 12 gauge. I switched to the 800 Plus and then switched to REM hulls shortly after that. I have loaded some 12 ga AAHS hulls and they loaded much better on the Plus than the B.
     
  12. M Wayne

    M Wayne TS Member

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    Mike, I just recently bought an 800B and the only problem I had was that it did not fully set the primer all the way. After a call to P/W, talked to Tonya, got the problem solved. There is a small allen screw on the back if the primer feed that had come loose. After she told me what to check, and the right height for the primer rod as I call it {3/32}, Everything works well except for the occasional operater error {forgot the wad}. I was using an old Pacifac 266 before I bought the 800B. Hope this helps. Mike
     
  13. Mike McVietty

    Mike McVietty TS Member

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    Thank you to all that replied I am looking forward to picking it up this weekend. What is the modification Whiz has to measure the powder drop.
    Thanks Mike
     
  14. Gross Man

    Gross Man Member

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    This is his post - you may want to search the subj to view picture and whole string. Billy

    Subject: --- Great Idea to Weigh Charges in a P/W ---<BR>
    From: whiz white<BR>
    Email: whiz@swsupply.com<BR>
    Date: Mon, Mar 30, 2009 - 03:57 PM ET<BR>
    Website Address: http://www.trapshooters.com/swsupply/<BR>


    Just got an email from a good customer who researched a thread I posted a long time ago regarding a modification to the P/W that make it really handy to test weights of charges dropped, shot or powder. Billy suggested that this is good enough to post again, so here goes...

    Here's the old post context: A friend, Jim Forsbach of Ohio, an intelligent and great trapshooter, and someone who is always coming up with great ideas (The Shooting Position PowerPoint for one), gave me this idea. He did it to one of his many reloaders, one of which I had here in the shop.

    He removed the pressed pin in the Rack Gear and inserted a threaded pin that accepts a shoulder bolt similar to the one on the Index Pad and similar to the two that hold the up/down operating links on P/W machines.

    He can shut off the powder or shot depending on what he wants to weight; Powder OFF - weight SHOT, Shot OFF - weight POWDER. He simply unscrews the shoulder bolt and then slided the Rack Gear back and forth to drop the load he wants to check. In doing it this way, the machine never rotates, and you *can* change bushings several times to derrive a weight you are targeting.

    Here is a picture of one I did here at the shop:<BR>
    [​IMG]<BR>
    Whiz White<BR>
    P/W Distributor
     
  15. Border Bandit

    Border Bandit Well-Known Member

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    Mike, good luck with it, it's a fine machine.

    You can upgrade with:

    Removable Die Kit.
    Final top taper kit with shortened dies.
    Large volume shot & powder hoppers.
    Quick change bushing(s) adapter.
    Electric motor drive/hand toggle.
    Case mouth expander(s) on primer punch & Powder drop tube.
    Plus a complete factory rebuild, while Jean was still there.
    OH, and a lifetime supply of Chinese finger torture thingeys for the wad cup.

    Whiz and Jim Cunningham have these items for sale, but get 'em while you can.
    ....mike
     
  16. eightbore

    eightbore Well-Known Member

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    Prescott Gene, the C in the serial number does not seem to refer to the model designation. Was your C serial number a 28 gauge loader? Each of my different gauge 800B loaders have a different letter designation in the serial number. Does anyone know the code? Does anyone know the serial number by date of manufacture?
     
  17. 320090T

    320090T Well-Known Member

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    From: Jim Cunningham
    Email: james.cunningham@prodigy.net
    Date: Sun, May 25, 2003 - 06:51 AM ET
    Website Address: http://jimsearneye.com
    When I first started working with P/W back in 84 the gentleman that then ran the factory told me that the first shipment of 800B's to leave the factory was hi-jacked never to be seen again. The insurance company ordered that they start over again with a break in the ser.#s and begin again at 500. Since then I have worked on a number of the "Stolen" machines at the PA state and other shoots here on the east coast. The earliest machines are easy to spot as they don't have the handle "Stop block" and the owners manual says to put a 1 in. block of wood there. The base is smaller and they are much heavier as the under sides of the tool head, cross head and base weren't hollowed out. The best way to estimate the age of your machine is to figure that P/W makes about 1000 machines a year in the 800/900/2000 type so starting at 64 work your way up to your ser. #. That isn't exact but it will be within a year.
    Just realized that my above should have given the start dates for figuring the age of P/W's. For the 800B and 800C use the 64 date. For the 800 Convertable use 84 as a start date and for the 900's use 88. The 1000's use 89 and for the 2000 use 2000. Sorry about the oversight but I think of the 800's whenever I think of P/W and while I see the later models as (Mostly) improved modifications, the 800's are the heart of the company and I am glad to see the reintroduction of the 800 (2003) and the demise of the 950.
     
  18. eightbore

    eightbore Well-Known Member

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    I like Jim Cunningham just fine, have bought a bunch of stuff from him over the years. However, his method of determining the age of your loader is probably not as accurate as information you could probably get from PW. By the way, I'm not so sure about the serial number suffix relating to a "transition model" as posted by Prescott Gene. My suffixes seem to relate to gauge. The 800B in 12 gauge has no suffix, my 20 gauge is A, my 28s are B, and my 800Bs in .410 are C. Maybe Genes loader with the suffix C was a .410? By the way, my 375 in .410 was bought the first month they advertised a loader, whenever that was. It is serial number 1416.
     
  19. Ed Y

    Ed Y TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    My oldest loader is #703 and it has the wooden block stop. It still cranks out some beautiful shells.

    Ed Yanchok
     
  20. eightbore

    eightbore Well-Known Member

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    I think the older loaders are for guys who can make their own parts, but, that said, they sure do load great shells. By the way, I have an uninstalled taper crimper kit, but I'll be darned if I'll ever install it. The full length sizer dies are the number one feature of the original PW loaders, and the feature that separates them from the "also rans".
     
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