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Primer Tray Vibrator- Need help designing

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by skeet_man, Jan 28, 2010.

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  1. skeet_man

    skeet_man Well-Known Member

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    In the process of getting my PW setup, and one of the threads on here about a vibrator for the primer tray has inspired me to try and design something myself. It would get the job done, but be quite a bit more rudimentary than whats out there.

    Looking through the radio shack website, it looks like i can get most of the parts i'd need, but I'm not all that sure how to go about putting it together.

    The have a plasic enclosure box thats 3x2x1, which would fit perfectly under the primer tray w/ the extension attached, which I would hold on w/ double backed tape. I would use a momentary switch (the kind that when you push it in, it turns the item on, and when you let go, it goes off) either mounted through the side of the housing, or possibly on the front of the press. Trying to design something that the action of the press activates is a bit over my head at this point, and i'm not sure its really necessary.

    My biggest question at this point is on the electricity end of things. RS has a vibration motor, which is rated at 3V DC. Does this mean that the maximum number of volts it can take is 3, which would let me use 2 1.5v batteries in series (normal AA or AAA cells), or could I use say a 9 volt? The amp rating on the switch I'm looking at is 1.5, which I think would be fine, since I should be way under that, correct?


    Here's links to the components i'm looking at:

    Enclosure: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062279

    Vibration Motor: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2914700

    Momentary Switch: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062543

    If there's room, i'd like to put the batteries inside the enclosure, but RS also has enclosed battery holders if I had to go on the outside and attach it with glue or screws.

    Electricity usually scares me, but i figure i'm pretty safe with this project LOL. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.
     
  2. chipking

    chipking TS Member

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    If a DC motor is rated at 3VDC that is the voltage it is meant to run at. It should say something like 800rpm/3VDC. If you put a higher voltage on a DC motor it will run faster but may burn up. Stick with 2 1.5 V batteries (use C or D cells because they will last much longer than AAs or AAAs. With a DC motor it will run no matter which way the two wires are hooked up and because it is a vibrator it shouldn't matter if it runs forward or backward. Put the momentary switch on one lead between the motor and the battery . If you use batteries there is no potential for personal harm in the circuit. RadioShack should also have experimenters battery holders in different sizes and lengths. Hot glue will hold the motor to the bottom of the primer tray if you don't want to go to the trouble of putting a clip on the tray. The switch will be OK for your use.

    You want to put only the motor on the tray and run a pair of wires down to the box and switch on your bench. All the weight of the box,batteries, motor hanging from the bottom of your primer tray would be a nightmare to mount and would dampen the vibrations a bunch.

    --- Chip King ---
     
  3. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    I used JB Weld to attach a cell phone vibrating motor to the back side of the chute of my PW. A battery holder on the base behind the spent primer container and a momentary contact push button switch on the handle complete the set-up.

    Oh, and don't use hot glue to attach vibrating parts to metal. It's not strong enough and it dampens vibration.

    MK
     
  4. Willus

    Willus TS Member

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    there is a vibrating device on my SPOLAR you might get one from them
     
  5. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    skeet_man, I made mine using parts from Radio Shack. I use a 3vdc motor, I first used 1.5v but 3 works better. I probably have the same black box you saw. . In the box is two slots on each side. I made aluminum motor mounts and they slide into the slots. I used a piece of aluminum attached to the motor shaft with a set screw, out of balance. I attached the box to the underneath side of the primer tray with industrial velcro. Radio Shack or Lowes has that. I have an off/on switch on the front of the box that looks like the one Whiz uses. I think he got his parts at Radio Shack also.
     
  6. plinker611

    plinker611 Member

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    i just tap the rail every 25-30,whats the differance time wise, if you have to use the push button every 25-30 shells,i also found that if you juice up the tray&track with silocone spray every 1000 it helps alot,mark
     
  7. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    plinker611, My vibrator comes on every time I seat a primer. Shuts off if I let go of the handle. Having to tap the tray is an aggravation to me, a fault. I think that how slick the primer tray is has nothing to do with the primers not flowing into the rail. I polished mine to a mirror finish, waxed it, made no difference. Raise and lower the tray, no fix. . Next time you have a need to tap the tray, look at what is happening. I found that the primers form an arch where they go into the first gate in the primer tray. Like a stone arch in a building, the weight above the arch holds it in place. When the tray is "tapped" the arch is broken up and the primers flow again. a vibrator keeps the arch from forming. I think it is quite likely the very reason Spolar puts a vibrator on their loader.
     
  8. kiv-c

    kiv-c Member

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    I wonder if it wouldn't be better to try adapting the MEC primer feed system to the PW chute. Seems like the positive feeding action of the MEC unit (1 pull, 1 primer fed) would be less aggravating.

    They always seemed to work great on the MEC loaders...

    Kiv
     
  9. luvtrapguns

    luvtrapguns Well-Known Member

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    Skeet man,

    It's been a while since I sold both my 800's but from memory what I did seems a lot more simple. Make a small metal extension that will elevate the back of the primer tray. It only takes about an inch to insure primers will gravity feed into the feed slide. I hace loaded thousands of rounds without difficulty. It helps to keep the tray clean.

    Marc
     
  10. Hap MecTweaks

    Hap MecTweaks Well-Known Member

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    If I used a PW, I'd do as Marc did and elevate the back of the tray and make use of gravity. Hap
     
  11. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    Didn't work for me Hap. Read my post about the primer arch. I am guessing Spolar noticed the same thing. If all they had to do was increase the angle why use a vibrator.
     
  12. TEXASZEPHYR

    TEXASZEPHYR Member

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    If the primers are bridging, a post (think 4-40 machine screw) at the location in the middle of the arch could just be the ticket, could be attached to the top of the primer tray in case it didn'e work, wouldn't mess up the smooth area on the bottom of the tray. Just a thought

    Bob
     
  13. Hap MecTweaks

    Hap MecTweaks Well-Known Member

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    JerryP, I was going by what Marc's fix for his was. Maybe his fix prevented the slow primer "bridging" you talk about?

    Hap
     
  14. luvtrapguns

    luvtrapguns Well-Known Member

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    I never had a bridging problem with mine. Perhaps if the tray was rotated slightly in addition to raising the back it would help. Marc
     
  15. Chango2

    Chango2 Active Member

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    Try any "adult toy store". Should be plenty of options and likely only DC powered for safety. Not that I've ever been inside one of "those" kind of places, but I read a lot.
     
  16. dverna

    dverna Active Member

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    The adult toy store will also have a variety of lubricants. Even if they are not as effective a silicone, you may find them interesting.

    Don Verna
     
  17. luvtrapguns

    luvtrapguns Well-Known Member

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    I can't say for sure, but it sounds like experience talking. (LOL) Marc
     
  18. MGeslock

    MGeslock TS Member

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    Whiz White had one for sale. Hook up took 2 minutes. The switch mounted on the back of the rack for the shot and powder bushing.

    Check with him.
     
  19. skeet_man

    skeet_man Well-Known Member

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    Well, I made it through the snow tnight to RS. Bought all the parts. They weren't kidding when they said MICRO vibrating motor. Its about the size of 2 primers stacked on top of one another. I thought i MIGHT be able to get away with it, but hooking it up to the batteries and just holding it against the primer tray, its going to be way to small to do anything meaningful. Ordered a 12v motor tonight online ($1.50 for the motor, $7 for shipping LOL), I think its going to be alot more appropriate, similar to the ones whiz and spolar use, I was hoping to be able to get away w/ a battery operated system to keep external wires to a minimum, but it looks like i'm going to have to use an AC to DC converter to get the kind of power I need. Luckily I already had a converter laying around from some old electronic device that i can use, all I have to do is wait until the motor comes in, then plumb everything together.

    MGeslock- Whiz offered these at one time, but no longer does. I'm going off his design for inspiration, but i'm going to be using a manual switch rather than one thats machine actuated (for now at least, we'll see what i discover as I actually use it). It looked to me from the pics whiz shared that his setup would not be conducive to frequent gauge changes do to the way the electronics box mounted to the die head, whereas what i have in mind wouldn't interfere with that at all.
     
  20. Haskins Bill

    Haskins Bill TS Member

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    Too many posts to read this late at night. Get a solenoid valve. Dump the valve and just mount the coil part to the primer chute. It will run on 110 AC and put a momentary switch in the line to bump now and then if you do not want to listen to the hum, to keep the primers flowing a side benfit is the coil will act as a demagnetizer at the same time. Back in the day I worked at a shop for a while that made drapery hooks and we used solenoid coils to demagnetize the pieces coming off the straighteners/cut to lenghtthat cut the wire. Bill
     
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