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Ponsness Warren Final Crimp Adjustment

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by pheasant1894, Feb 22, 2010.

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  1. pheasant1894

    pheasant1894 TS Member

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    Ok, I am back with another Ponsness Warren 800C question.

    Is there a good how-to reference for adjusting the final crimp station? The manual is pretty thin here. What I am calling the final crimp is the station before the shell is ejected. There is a nut which adjusts the spring tension and a nut on the top plate that sets the depth.

    I think the nut on top of the spring sets the taper. Is this right? This starts putting tension on the spring about 1/4 inch off the bottom of the threads. Should this be all of the way down? Especially for AA hulls?

    Any suggestions or rules of thumb to setting the overall depth (nut on top)?

    I have had a couple of shells actually roll over the top of the dies during this station. Then I have to cut around the top of the shell so they will eject at the next station (otherwise they will bind). This sends shot everywhere -- not very fun.

    Any help would be very, very much appreciated.
     
  2. KEYBEAR

    KEYBEAR Active Member

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    PM SENT
     
  3. poacherjoe

    poacherjoe Well-Known Member

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    I had the same problem but it was only when I used the AAHS hull.Now I only use Remington STS, Nitro's or the old AA's.
     
  4. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    The final crimp sets both the taper and inner depth of the crimp.

    Do you have dies that are 2 3/4" tall or 2½" tall? The latter is the preferred, and is referred to as Tru-Crimp, which give the rounded finished shell. The 2 3/4" dies give more of a flat top crimp and these didn't feed in automatics as well, so P/W many years ago offered the Tru-Crimp upgrade.

    WW<BR>
    P/W Distributor
     
  5. JES

    JES Member

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    Just started reloading have a lot of AA red hulls, these are a few years old is the problem with the newer AA reds?
     
  6. poacherjoe

    poacherjoe Well-Known Member

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    I have 4 PW's and some have the long die's and some have the Tru crimp.When I loaded the AAHS in both red and gray I would periodicaly have the same problem as was mentioned above! Things started out great and then you would get one that would roll over the top of the die and then my solution was to place a 1/2" nut on top of the shell so it would press out at the finished shell location,Then it was chop up time and this was happening enough to prompt me into ditching the AAHS hulls and sticking with the Remington hulls which I have ZERO problems with.Other's have had no problems but I could not solve it so I gave up on them.
    You will also notice that the red and gray come in 2 different lengths.You have to make an adjustment to the loader for each.With the Rem's I don't have to worry about anything.The unloader is selling a device made for this problem.
     
  7. pheasant1894

    pheasant1894 TS Member

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    Thanks for all of the suggestions.

    Whiz, my dies mic at 2.063 inches. I think this is the Tru-Crimp length. I seem to remember reading that the older dies are about 2.350 inches. So, I am kind of surprised that I am having this much difficulty.

    Poacherjoe, thanks for the great suggestion. At least this will not interrupt my reloading and I can take apart the defective shells later.

    Do ya'll have any suggestions how to adjust this station? Should I set the crimp or depth first? Any rules of thumb?

    Thanks.
     
  8. kiv-c

    kiv-c Member

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    Whiz, can the 2 3/4" dies be trimmed down in a lathe to the Tru-Crimp length? If so, is the desired measurement 2.5" or 2.063"?

    Kiv
     
  9. jhh

    jhh Member

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    Re cutting down the PW dies, I have a 28ga loader that someone shortened the dies to about the length of the dies on the C type machine, I guess it was a 800B when mfg, and they couldn't get it to work. I did remove the dies and put a slight radius on the top inside edge as they were pretty sharp. The machine after several adjustments works well, and as most think the 28ga is harder to get to load well, I expect shorting the 12 ga dies wouldn't cause any problems. John Hancock
     
  10. skeezix

    skeezix Member

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    I have run into the dreaded mushroom on the .410 on occasion. One thing I did that seemed to help is to polish the bejesus out of the inner surface of the knockout die. I also learned to watch the knockout die and make sure that the punch seats well on the die, before the knock out part of the punch contacts the shell. If you see a bit of a hesitation, pause until the spring drives the punch housing down to the die.

    john
     
  11. JACK

    JACK Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    Never adjusted mine yet

    But I use STS hulls.

    I'd get a new picture, but they all look the same

    [​IMG]
     
  12. RWAldridge

    RWAldridge TS Member

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    Had the same mushrooming problem with a 900. Spoke with Jim Cunningham and he suggested I change the spring on the FINAL crimp / knock out station. A weak spring will cause the mushrooming. Haven't had a problem since with either STS or AA. Bob
     
  13. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Pheasant: I would remove the final crimp station and disassembly the final crimp assembly, especially if it has the large coil spring affair. It could be the spring, or the center shaft.

    Kiv-c: You can trim them, but it takes a ceramic bit. I've done it with carbide, but it tears them up quickly.

    POACHERJOE: I use a ¼" socket 3/8" or 1/2" to punch out the bad shell.

    Whiz
     
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