1. Attention: We have put together a thread with tips and a tutorial video to help with using the new software. Please take a moment to check out the thread here: Trapshooters.com Tutorial & Help Video.
    Dismiss Notice

Plumbing question

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by SPACE GUN, Jan 9, 2017.

  1. SPACE GUN

    SPACE GUN Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2007
    Messages:
    672
    Location:
    Galena ohio
    can the plumbing fixtures behind a
    Fiberglass bath tub unit be install from the tube side through the
    Existing 6 inch in the fiberglass? Or
    Must I go through the back side drywall?
     
  2. DuckNut

    DuckNut Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2016
    Messages:
    1,325
    Do you have a picture of your dilemma as yer engrish is a bit difficult to runderstand?
     
  3. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2006
    Messages:
    7,161
    Location:
    S-E PA
    Chances are 'no.'

    There should be hot and cold coming up from below. These will enter the valve body, but typically these will come in from the sides which will be past your 6" hole. There will be a pipe dropping down for the tub spout (if present) and a pipe running up for the shower head.

    Tough to get to all of that through a six inch opening. Add to that the fire risk if you use a torch and can't get to the area where you are working in case you set something on fire.
     
  4. Mka2278

    Mka2278 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2016
    Messages:
    67
    Hslds is on point.
    Probably tough to get in there if there is anything else that needs to be addressed in the valve body. And in most of those retro fit cases there usually are. Any access from a nearby, adjacent closet?
     
  5. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Messages:
    6,483
    Plumbing fixtures are installed in the bathroom, not in the wall. You should be able to replace the shower valve parts through the 6 inch hole (it can be tricky). I am assuming you have a drip coming from the shower faucet. Be sure if you have a Moen valve, you need to use Moen parts and a Moen faucet too. Now if you have a water leak in the wall from any of the connection's now you have to open the wall up from the other side to find and fix the leaks. Be sure to turn the water to the whole house off before you do anything. Also have someone with a phone turn the water back on slowly, while you talk to them and watch the valve for leaks!!! I hope your good and handy!!! Good Luck and break em all Jeff
     
  6. SPACE GUN

    SPACE GUN Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2007
    Messages:
    672
    Location:
    Galena ohio
    The problem is with the valve, I was thinking will shark bite fittings I could maybe keep from knocking a hole in our bedroom wall.
     
  7. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2006
    Messages:
    7,161
    Location:
    S-E PA
    Caution on the 'Shark Bite' fittings - if you do go that route ONLY use REAL Shark Bite fittings. Many of the off brands will leak.

    Is the valve shot/leaking?? Many are designed to be rebuilt when worn (from the shower side) - leaking pipes is another story.
     
  8. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2006
    Messages:
    7,161
    Location:
    S-E PA
  9. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Messages:
    6,483
    I believe you just need to replace the valve's inside's (guts). This will not only fix a leaky faucet, but it will fix any water mixing problems that you may have with the valve. Like you turn the valve fully to hot and get warm water, or cold water. If this is what you have there is no need to replace the entire valve just the inside's that I mentioned are replaceable without the need for cutting into the wall. Their is no reason to replace the entire valve "Ever". Even it it is leaking you can fix the leak. Do you have Copper or PEX, or CPVC water lines???

    Go to a real local plumbing supply house to get your parts. Do not go to the orange or blue store for this. U-tube can be your friend here as well. Open up your valve and take a picture and show it to the counter person @ the supply store, so he/she can get you the correct valve. Yes, they will have your's in stock. break em all Jeff
     
  10. SPACE GUN

    SPACE GUN Member

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2007
    Messages:
    672
    Location:
    Galena ohio
    The valve is broke. I am aware of the core replacement, the valve was freezing up for years so I shut the water off a long time ago. As I was trying to remove the stem the outside of the valve broke, so I need to replace the whole thing,
     
  11. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2006
    Messages:
    7,161
    Location:
    S-E PA
    if you are replacing the entire valve assembly you will be much better served coming in from the back wall.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2017
    PatMiles thanked this.
  12. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2011
    Messages:
    4,142
    Open up the wall behind the valve, replace the valve, make an access cover, paint the cover and attach. Doing it any other way is asking for double bleeding ulcers.
    Here is a pic of what I had to do to replace my valve. I start tomorrow. Just kidding, I'm remodeling a bathroom, moving a toilet so I can put in a 6' vanity. ALL the plumbing is going to be replaced with PVC including the soil stack (big black cast iron pipe).
    DSC04691.JPG DSC04690.JPG
     
  13. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    Messages:
    6,483
    Looks like it might be bathroom remodeling time!!! Its gonna be real hard to replace the valve from the back. You have water lines going in all 4 directions at the same time going to, and leaving the valve. Not to mention all the plastic hold downs (Holding the plumbing tree) are facing the bathroom side and you will not be able to get to them from the back side. The whole tree as they say is made up on a table the then installed between the studs. Then its a simple task to connect the hot and cold water supply lines to the valve on the tree. The tree is the valve at the center with water line up to the shower head and another down to the faucet. You might want to look at some new wall tile's for around the tub now. Cut a 3/4 inch piece of plywood to cover the tub, and cut it as close to the wall tile as you can. When you demo the wall and the tile it will not fall into the tub and damage the porcelain finish. Do, protect the tub finish from the plywood as well. I would recommend the small size cabinet door silencer's and place them every 10 inches around the whole perimeter of the plywood. These are the little clear plastic buttons that keep the cab. doors from making the wood to wood slamming sound. Pick-up the plywood and keep cleaning under it. You can tape the plywood to the tile around all 4 sides to get a good seal until you have to do the very bottom run of tiles on the tub itself. Also buy cardboard (4x8 sheets and cut to size) to protect the bathroom floor as the broken tiles will fall on it as well. Cover the toilet and vanity with a old sheet. A good wet/dry vacuum is a must. Good Luck and break em all Jeff

    What's on the other side of the wall where the shower valve is??? If you want to go this route I'd cut a hole about 4 inches above and below the shower head and faucet line and as wide as the studs are side to side. Get a good plumber as its tricky work from the back side.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2017
  14. wimms

    wimms TS Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    kentucky
    I have been a plumber for over 30yrs and yes you can go from the front. it is easier from back if you can. I like delta and they make a remodel plate that lets you make a larger hole so you can work from the front. be careful with shark bite fittings I will not put behind a wall.