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Perazzi trigger question for expert

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by dward, Nov 14, 2011.

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  1. dward

    dward Member

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    I just acquired a 2000rs and currently shoot a type 3 mx8. I have a few release triggers for the mx8 and although I plan to get a newer style trigger for the 2000rs (it came with a pull), I'd like to be able to use my older triggers as back ups. To get the older triggers to fit into the 2000rs I had to polish the frames a bit and that's done. I also know that the bottom barrel hammer needs to be opened up like the newer style hammers and that's also done.

    I also took the stock off to make sure the triggers aren't being overcocked when the action is opened completely. One of the trigger shoes will need to be shortened up a bit if I want to use it, but as I have 3 release triggers two are fine.

    But I noticed that the inertial blocks on the newer pull trigger that came with the 2000rs is larger than the inertial blocks on the older triggers. When I operated the older triggers in the 2000rs, the smaller inertial blocks don't let the T fall as far forward for the second shot/barrel, and thus doesn't allow enough engagement with the sear release arm.

    Will a newer style inertial block solve the engagement problem? And are there any other issues that are encountered when using a type 3 trigger in a newer Perazzi?

    Thanks - Dan
     
  2. Steve W

    Steve W Well-Known Member

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    You did more than most could ever figure out. :)

    From what you described with no protrusion sound like you need to increase the weight of the inertia block on the old MX-8 trigger probably because the 10RS is heavier than your old MX-8, and the way the stock/barrel configuration made the perceived recoil less than it needed to set the second sear with the old MX-8 trigger group.

    If that's the case, you may glue a little piece of lead tape on the inertia block as we did for 28/410 sub gauge shooting.
     
  3. dward

    dward Member

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    The safety catches the back edge of the inertial block. With the newer inertial blocks being deeper it allows it to fall farther forward. So the older smaller inertial block is hitting the safety stop and it isn't a weight issue. I'll probably just swap the newer inertial block into one of the older triggers and see if it solves the problem.

    I know someone has dealt with this (probably a gunsmith), just didn't want to reinvent a wheel (or find out that the wheel won't work) if I don't have to.
     
  4. Steve W

    Steve W Well-Known Member

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    That too, in some cases could happen. A good point.

    But if you did took the stock out to check function, you should see if the safety is in the way of the inertia block.
     
  5. dward

    dward Member

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    The safety is stopping the inertial block and before I ordered a newer style inertial block I wanted to confirm that it solves the problem....and if there are any other issues I need to address.
     
  6. miketmx

    miketmx Well-Known Member

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    I have an old double release trigger for my MX3 and the top of the inertia block was filed off so the safety doesn't interfere with it.
     
  7. dward

    dward Member

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    "I have an old double release trigger for my MX3 and the top of the inertia block was filed off so the safety doesn't interfere with it."

    That's probably the simplest solution......and something I was thinking about doing.........just thought it would be nice to retain the function of the safety. Even though we never use them on trap guns :<)
     
  8. Steve W

    Steve W Well-Known Member

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    We use the safety switch to reset the second sear when we release the hammers.
     
  9. dward

    dward Member

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    After fitting the three older style perazzi release triggers to my newer 2000rs I wanted to let you know what I found.

    First....(this is only important for release triggers)......I had to adjust/shorten 4 of the 6 cocking shoes as the hammers were being overcocked into the release hooks which could have resulted in one of the hooks being broken (been there done that before). So my advice is don't ever use a release trigger in a gun where you haven't removed the stock to make sure the trigger isn't overcocked. Even on newer guns the cocking rods could have been changed/lengthened in the receiver. Once you break a release hook you'll need to have the whole trigger redone on that side. Basically when your action is completely open, you want the hammers to be cocked past the sear engagement but you also want a slight bit of play to remain in the release hook.

    Second....(this applies to release and pull triggers)....on the safety stopping the inertial block issue, I found that all three triggers were slightly different. The first trigger I looked at was the one that was being stopped short enough to let the T get past the sear release arm once in a while on the narrower second shot side of the T. The other two worked, abeit they weren't allowed to bottom out into the sear release. But there was enough engagement to release the sear on the second barrel each time. As many of the mx release triggers that are sold are out of older guns it's a good idea to take the stock off and make sure you're getting enough engagement on the second shot side of the T. The newer inertial blocks are a bit deeper and will help the problem.....and as Mike noted above you can grind the inertial block down so the safety doesn't affect it.

    Thanks for the responses - Big Dan
     
  10. miketmx

    miketmx Well-Known Member

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    I found out that over-cocking was causing premature leaf spring breakage. Whiz White clue'd me in on this when I sent him a broken leaf hammer spring for my McDaniels leaf spring release trigger on the TMX.
     
  11. JACK

    JACK Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    Dan-o... I have a nice DR Allem, EXT SEL. It will plop right in and be done with all this filing and fretting.
     
  12. dward

    dward Member

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    I was wondering if they delivered emails to Prescott via pony express :<)

    I'm out of town for the next few weeks but we'll hook up in Dec and I'll give it a look.

    From: Dan Ward
    Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 7:56 AM
    To: 'Jack Swanson'
    Subject: RE: Your gun is in

    Hey Jack,

    Picked the gun up last Friday and I agree that the wood is nice. I’ve ordered an adjustable pad plate, with a bit thicker pad as my gun is 15-1/4 and this one is 14-1/2………….and I like it a tad longer for my gorilla arms. All in all I ‘d say the gun is in better shape than I expected so all is good.


    In looking at my triggers there is a bit of a difference in the newer triggers so I probably will look into a newer style release, as I’ll leave the original pull trigger alone. If you have an allem style bottom first let me know. I would like the release weight to be right at about 2lbs. Set doesn’t matter that much to me. You mentioned having a number of triggers…..so give me a shout if you’ve got something that will work.

    Thanks - Dan
     
  13. JACK

    JACK Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    This is a typical Allem set/rel points.
    mia_2008_030335.jpg
     
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