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Perazzi - sticky MX3 top lever, the cause?

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Sportshot, May 15, 2010.

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  1. Sportshot

    Sportshot Member

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    I recently got my MX3 back from a restoration project. The finish is very nice. I did expect the barrel-to-receiver fit to be better, but maybe that looseness is typical of the MX-3 models generally.

    My problem is the top lever,

    When I close the gun the lever goes to slightly right of center,... and to open the gun requires a very hard and aggressive push. Basically, it's "stuck" and I have to shove it hard to open the gun. (I push with my thumb because I'm left handed verses the way most shooters pull with their right thumb).

    I am seriously worried about breaking this lever. It is not a break-in issue, (I suppose) because I've shot the gun approaching 200-300 rounds so far. No change in the lever.

    Suggestions?
  2. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    Hi Friend.. You need a locking bolt.. and possibly the top lever cam pin needs to be polished.
  3. Neil Winston

    Neil Winston Well-Known Member

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    Maybe the spring/plunger assembly which tells the gun is it's closed is broken/bound up/ sideways (it happens!) or otherwise screwed up. If left like that, you will harm the top-lever too and that's going to cost some lira to replace.

    Neil
  4. BigM-Perazzi

    BigM-Perazzi Well-Known Member

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    If you did not have this problem before the restoration project I'd suggest discussing it with the restorers. It probably required a complete teardown and the should have. Noticed this problem.
  5. Sportshot

    Sportshot Member

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    Thanks, .....

    I was hoping this was a minor issue, - something I could fix myself. I've tried opening and closing the gun dozens of times in addition to the shooting I've done. No change,... no improvement...

    I hate to send this off for repair again because I NEED it for shooting, and it has been gone all winter for the restoration. But you're right, this lever is going to break it I don't get it fixed soon.
  6. BigM-Perazzi

    BigM-Perazzi Well-Known Member

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    Its not rocket science to pull it out but it does take some care. So.eone could talk you thru it. Might be as Neil says.
  7. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    There is no way for a top lever to get to 6 oclock if the locking bolt is not worn.. With no top lever return spring..or housing.. 6 o'clock is 6 o'clock..
  8. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    Sportshot.. You're welcome to send me your phone number.. I'll call you when I get a break.. or later tonight.. All Good.. Mike
  9. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    For those of you who have not seen this before.. It's wear on the barrel ears.. where the locking bolt engages.. and or the locking bolt.. The "sticking" is 2 surfaces..NOT on an angle.. but worn flat.. When both angles are correct..the tiniest movement seperates the two.. and the gun opens smoothly..

    Also.. the pin engagement in the locking bolt could have a burr on it.. OR be bent..causing a bind in the rearward movement of the locking bolt..

    the fact the barrel/receiver fit is loose.. further adds to my thoughts of ear/bolt problem..

    When fitting a locking bolt..you don't install the top lever return spring till the very last.. The fitting is done with a triggerless receiver..and the barrel.. The top lever should be smooth till the end..in its complete arch..
  10. BigM-Perazzi

    BigM-Perazzi Well-Known Member

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    Pbb not disagreeing but a little confused on why a gun that's been restored would have these issues.
  11. Sportshot

    Sportshot Member

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    Something went wrong,

    when I first got it there was no problem, the lever was way over to the right, I received an envelope of old parts that had been replaced, one of which was that locking bolt you are talking about,... I think...

    And then within a very short period of usage, I'd say two or three rounds, I noticed the lever sticking, and it has fallen back towards the center of the tang and not over to the right like it was at first, so obviously something about the repair failed.

    I am DEFINATELY not throwing a stone at the vendor, and I'm not saying anything about who, what, where,.... I just really need my gun fixed, pronto. I will be shooting 100 doubles with it tomorrow, and on and on.....
  12. Steve W

    Steve W Well-Known Member

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    Sportshot, the locking bolt is a "H" shape piece of metal.
  13. vdt

    vdt Active Member

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    check you private messages
  14. Sportshot

    Sportshot Member

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    yes, Steve, I was like 99% sure I knew what the locking bolt was, and that was one of the replaced parts, it just seems wierd that part is called a locking bolt, instead of a locking plate or something.

    I am not very mechanically-minded.
  15. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    Sportshot.. If you have a computer with a camera.. If you SKYPE... I can take a look at it.. and maybe offer some thoughts.. Look me up on Skype.. or send me a E-mail..and I'll get back to you after work... Send me your phone number..
  16. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    I use to call them locking blocks.. but the factory.. and everyone else called them locking bolts... I understand the confusion.. It sounds like the locking bolt was changed.. The only thing.. from what you are describing to me.. sounds like the top lever.. The cam pin might have sheered off..How???? Not a clue.. but then.. only the burrs are pulling the locking bolt in and out..and probably not locking up solid.. I wish you lived closer.. It's a simple fix.. but you'll need either a welder and machine skills.. or another top lever..

    I'd remove the barrel..and press the top lever release button.. at 9 o'clock on the receiver face.. The top lever should go to center..and the locking bolt should come to full forward position.. Holding the top lever from moving.. use a wooden dowel stick or brass punch to push the locking bolt back.. If it goes back..and the top lever does not move.. the cam pin on the top lever has sheared..

    In any event.. the top lever needs to come out..to check it.. and the locking bolt..

    Call me.. Mike
  17. whiz white

    whiz white Perazzi Part s& Repair - P/W dealer Staff Member

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    With regard to the Top Lever Spring, there are several different designs and several different sizes.

    Hopefully, whomever did the "restore" used the correct replacement parts.

    Take a photo of the parts you received back so we can see what was replaced.

    The angle on the Action Block (Perazzi part# 104) is or should be 7º. If the restorer did not maintain this angle, or if the angle of the cuts in the rear of the barrel's monoblock (hopefully not touched) differ, then you could also have some issues.

    I had an MX3 in here recently that had the notches in the rear of the barrel altered to fit the Action Block, HOWEVER, whoever did it, didn't alter the O/U barrel. Consequently, the Action Block worked in the single, but not the O/U.

    I returned it to the gunsmith in the NW
  18. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    Was this a combo set..??? and were both barrels fitted??? if it was??? As Whiz said.. if only one was fitted..and not the O/U.. You'll need to call me... Mike
  19. whiz white

    whiz white Perazzi Part s& Repair - P/W dealer Staff Member

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    With regard to the Top Lever Spring, there are several different designs and several different sizes.

    Hopefully, whomever did the "restore" used the correct replacement parts.

    Take a photo of the parts you received back so we can see what was replaced.

    The angle on the Action Block (Perazzi part# 104) is or should be ~7º. If the restorer did not maintain this angle during fitting, or if the angle of the cuts in the rear of the barrel's monoblock (hopefully not touched) were altered, then you could also have some issues. I hope like hell the barrel was not touched. I've seen some the have been re-welded

    I had an MX3 in here recently that had the notches in the rear of the barrel altered to fit the Action Block, HOWEVER, whoever did it, didn't alter the O/U barrel. Consequently, the Action Block worked in the single, but not the O/U.

    I returned it to the gunsmith in the NW and said I was not interested in fixing this really badly screwed-up barrel. I didn't want to own this problem, nor wanted to be a part of the problem's continuation. Could this be the MX3?

    The "gunsmith" who did the initial repairs should NOT have touched the gun in the first place. A Perazzi is a fine piece of craftsmanship, and an amateur repairer is NOT what you want. It reminds me of the guy shooting the $15,000 MX2000, who hesitates in buying a couple of $30 repair parts. I just don't understand it.


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    There exists a dual-coil spring set-up which I do not have pictured.

    Whiz
  20. PerazziBigBore

    PerazziBigBore TS Member

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    The dual coil spring assemblies are now changed to the new style.. a simple drop in upgrade...and the top lever return spring lasts much longer...

    Neil.. This spring plunger assembly is what powers the top lever to close..and try to return to center.. The wedge fit on the end of the barrel ears and locking bolt mesh..stopping the top lever from going any farther forward.. As the parts wear.. the top lever finally gets to center..and a new locking bolt is installed..repeating the process until there is not enough metal on the barrel ears.. Then the barrel ears are welded up..and reground..and the whole process starts over again..

    A top lever to center is only 2 options.. locking bolt/barrel ears worn.. or top lever cam pin broke.. There is no 3rd option.. Now.. if one sets up a new locking bolt for 1 barrel of a combo.. The unfitted barrel will probably not just drop on.. The ears will need to be welded up.. and fitted to the locking bolt..
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