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*** perazzi question ***

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by jamie65, May 10, 2013.

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  1. jamie65

    jamie65 Member

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    I have been using some very light 7/8 oz (1125 fps)and have found that as frequently as once or twice during a round or as little as 1x per 100 birdsthat the hammer for my top barrel mx-3 has not cocked after the previous shot. I take out the trigger set and cock it by hand and it good to go.trigger is clean and lubricated. any thoughts ?
     
  2. Barry C. Roach

    Barry C. Roach Well-Known Member

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    TOO light. If it's a Pgun you'll probably need a heavier inertia block.
     
  3. Don Rackley

    Don Rackley Well-Known Member Supporting Vendor

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    Jamie,

    The cocking is performed by opening the gun. The piece on the forend pushes back on the cocking bar at the bottom of the receiver. the cocking bar then presses back on the cocking feet in the trigger housing. Make sure you are fully opening the gun.

    If that does not work the cocking feet may need to be replaced.

    Don
     
  4. Avaldes

    Avaldes Well-Known Member

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    I think he means that the second trigger is not setting after the first shot. So he is manually pulling the inertia block back to set the second trigger.

    You don't need to pull the trigger out to perform this process, just cycle the safety on and off. It will pull the inertia block back and set the second trigger.

    The permanent fix of course is to have a different inertia block installed for those light or subgage loads.
     
  5. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Swap cocking feet. If that doesn't work, you may have either a worn cocking cam in the forearm, or worn cocking rod.

    Is the trigger serially numbered the same as the receiver or is it a mismatch?

    There are problems associated with different triggers in different receivers.

    It does not take much wear to not see the hammer cock.

    Whiz
     
  6. Avaldes

    Avaldes Well-Known Member

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    Jim, thank you for sharing your Perazzi knowlege both here and on other threads. You are an asset to this site!

    -Aaron
     
  7. jamie65

    jamie65 Member

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    thanks for the insite guys. whiz the trigger and the receiver #'s match. the gun is being used as a top single only. moving the safty from off to on back to off didn't solve the problem.wouldnt a worn cocking cam or worn cocking rod cause the problem to be more frequent or would it still be hit and miss? thanks again for all info / jamie65
     
  8. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Thanks, Avaldes!

    Jamie65: I'd like to say "Yes, those worn parts would definitely see more frequency." but it could be dependent on heat on the action (expansion), or whatever??? Let's discuss this some more.

    It's hard to diagnose over the Internet without actually seeing this occur in action.

    Because you mentioned that you are using very light loads, some/many of the Perazzi guys with 12 gauge guns who use tube inserts for the smaller gauges like 28 and 410 experience that a similar scenario. What happens with these is that there is just not enough "kick"/recoil to force the Inertia Block (as I call it), Perazzi calls it #158, "Connector" back far enough to get it unhooked, for lack of a better verb. The reduced recoil does not slam the "Connector" back and away from the sear it has just tripped. In this case then, the Connector does not return to battery under the second sear. Their solution is to install a meatier Inertia Block and Perazzi sells them and I carry them.

    In your case with the MX3 (I shoot an MX6 better than the other models) shoots top first, so the left sear is the one you are having trouble with. It just could be that the Connector is not "unhooking" from the left sear and when you cock the gun, the Connector and sear mating is not letting the hammer "catch" the front end of the sear to stay cocked. If the stock was off you could see this happen.

    If your problem was with a second shot as in doubles, then the Connector issue I just mentioned above would be more prevalent. However, as I understand it, you fire your gun successfully, open the action to eject the spent hull, reload, close and then get failure-to-fire. This just has to be in the cocking mechanism, or even too tight of a stock bolt, or the above Connector issue.

    Have you removed and reinstalled the stock lately? If not, dismiss this possibility.

    Could even possibly be that some wood in the tang area is rubbing on the side of the left hammer... I am guessing, but picking my brain for possibilities. As I stated, it would be nice if when this happened, you could immediately stop, remove the butt-stock and inspect the trigger area. Even a failing ejector rod on the left side could be involved, but unlikely.

    Sorry this is so long, but I am trying to cover all possibilities. It's hard to describe brain surgery over the phone, so to speak. Give me a call if this condition persists and we can talk more about it. I am sure you want it fixed ASAP, as we are in the shooting season.

    Jim
     
  9. jamie65

    jamie65 Member

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    thanks again for all the great input!jim I did have the stock off for about 2 months while I refinished it and getting it back on the receiver does coincide roughly with the failure to fire issue but then so does my experimenting with light loads. im going to follow your lead and snug up the stock and run 500 rounds my normal loads 1 1/8 at 1180 fps. if I don't have any failures I will try the light loads again and see what happens . this gun is ready for a rebuild so I might just go to my backup and get my mx out to you for a rebuild. I will be in touch / jamie65
     
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