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Parkerizing

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by BeerKing, Dec 29, 2010.

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  1. BeerKing

    BeerKing Active Member

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    I have a couple of guns with the original parkerizing wearing thin in places. Who can you reccomend to re do the gun?
     
  2. senior smoke

    senior smoke Well-Known Member

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    Save the money, use flat black paint.
    Steve Balistreri
     
  3. Barry C. Roach

    Barry C. Roach Well-Known Member

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    Cerakote it.
     
  4. Barry C. Roach

    Barry C. Roach Well-Known Member

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    You can buy it at Brownells.
     
  5. Rich219

    Rich219 Active Member

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    Anyone should be able to do it. If you have access to a blast cabinet do it yourself.
     
  6. W.R.Buchanan

    W.R.Buchanan Member

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    You can get the solution from Brownells. It is a very simple process.

    Just make damn sure you plug the barrel cuz if you parkerize the inside of the barrel it's toast!

    Randy
     
  7. msmith

    msmith Member

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    Have Doug Braker put on a teflon coating then you will never have to do anything again. Mike
     
  8. Jollytrapshooter

    Jollytrapshooter Member

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    You're from Iowa, right? You have a pretty good place right in your neck of the woods I think. A place called Craftguard in Waterloo. They seem to do pretty nice work from the few parts that I've seen. Hope this helps, Josh.
     
  9. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Are these guns actually parkerized or were they a bead-blasted bluing. It's getting quite rare to find any manufacturer parkerizing any guns. Most are running them through a sand-blaster and dropping them into the bluing tanks.

    A parkerized gun generally holds up quite well, but generally it will tend to be a grayish/green color asyou would find on older military guns. A few gunsmiths around the country do offer a black parkerized finish.

    The beadblasted/black matte on the more current guns does show wear significantly faster. A black coating is a much better route.

    Doug
     
  10. W.R.Buchanan

    W.R.Buchanan Member

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    Another thing you need to know about Parkerizing is that it by itself will rust just about as fast a bare steel. Parkerizing creates surface porosity which serves as a sponge to absorb oil which gives it it's rust resistance. It's pretty durable stuff, as witnessed by the military's fondness for it.

    The end to the process is soaking the part in oil and letting it cure for 24 hrs, then you can wipe off the excess oil. Typically Parkerizing is a charcoal gray, although there are coloring processes for it.

    My 03A3 barreled action has a charcoal colored barrel and a greenish action. It should be noted that the barrel has a blasted finish, and the action is smooth. Part of this is because the harder the material is the less the parkerizing solution can penetrate the surface. 03A3 actions are case hardened and the surface is very hard, the barrels are just Cromoly and whereas they may be heattreated they aren't that hard.

    I have used the process on my workbench to treat steel parts that were going to be used in a water environment with much success. The key to the whole process is getting the solution above about 165F. That and the harder the part the longer it has to be in the solution.

    I have a gun that ws bead blasted and then blued. It has a kind of satin finish to it not as flat as parkerizing.

    Like I said above if you are going to get a gun Parkerized make sure the barrel is plugged. The porosity will ruin the barrel for good , you have to rebore to a lartger caliber to fix it.

    I guess you could make that Springfield Sporter in .35 Whelen you've always wanted.

    Here's a pic of my bead blasted and reblued Bisley


    Randy
    [​IMG]
     
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