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Pacific reloader set up question

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by BunkerGuy, Apr 12, 2010.

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  1. BunkerGuy

    BunkerGuy TS Member

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    These might be helpful:

    http://pacificreloaders.awardspace.com

    Discusses older Pacific reloaders.

    And this discusses 366 crimping adjusments:

    http://www.shootingbunker.com/366ArticlePart_III.html

    - - Bill
     
  2. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Shawnee, Kansas, USA
    I'd recommend you contact Hornady.
     
  3. 333t

    333t Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    281
    Die adjustments on the 350 are pretty much the same as on the 366. The 350 doesn't have the final taper crimp die is about the only difference. If your top crimp is flat, you need to lower the center plunger on your final crimp die. Make sure you have the proper crimp starter and final crimp die for the hulls you are using.

    I have both machines and setup on them is nearly identical. A 366 manual would be very helpful to you.

    Phil
     
  4. 333t

    333t Member

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    If you are using 8 point hulls you will want the 8 point crimp starter. The final crimp die will do either.

    Phil
     
  5. 333t

    333t Member

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    tigman46:

    I found an old copy of instructions for the 350. If you post your email address I will scan it and send you a copy.

    Phil
     
  6. short shucker

    short shucker TS Member

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    tigman46,

    I had the same issue a few years back with an old 366. It turns out it had a 3" die instead of one for 2 3/4" shells. I found this out while inspecting the press, before I threw it out. The die had a 3 on the outside of it.

    ss
     
  7. short shucker

    short shucker TS Member

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    I'd say it a 2 3/4" (M standing for medium height). Back in the days when that press was made, there were probably still a few 2 9/16" chambered guns and the 3" was gaining popularity.

    The die adjustment that was suggested earlier by 333t is where I would start, but you say it won't adjust?

    I'd suggest the die be removed and soaked in oil, or sprayed down in penetrating oil. It sounds as if there is a little bit of corrosion present.

    You should be able to loosen the jam nut on top of the die and change the spring pressure by turning the screw.

    ss
     
  8. Tom Ruble

    Tom Ruble TS Member

    Joined:
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    tigman46, I've used metal wad guide fingers in the past and I prefer the plastic ones we use today. They are very easy to change out, just unscrew the assembly that holds the fingers, remove the old, insert the new, tighten the assembly, and you are good to go. At least that is how it works on my blue Pacific 360. Break 'em all! Tom Ruble
     
  9. omgb

    omgb Well-Known Member

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    He won't need an extra one from a 350, the plastic ones from the 366 will work fine as will wad guides from PW, they are interchangeable.

    Set up for any of the Pacific/Hornady presses always begins with the sizing die. Set it that so that it just clears the press base plate. Test it with a hull to be sure and then lock it down. That becomes the base line setting.

    Now moving to your right, adjust the priming station so that it seats a primer in the hull you intend to use. If you change hulls, you may/will have to readjust the seater stem.

    Moving to your right again, make sure the powder drop is screwed in properly. It should be tight against the head.

    Wad seating is next. The wad finger should extend into the case mouth but the case mouth should miss touching the top of the wad guide assembly by about 1/8".

    The crimp starter is next. First, examine it carefully. If it is smooth inside, you have a paper hull starter. If you are using standard trap hulls with an 8 point crimp, you Will need a new starter. The ones from a 366 will work fine and Hornady has a butt load of them. Once the correct starter is installed, you adjust it so that it leaves a space about the size of a pencil eraser when it is applied to a loaded hull.

    Finally we set the crimp die. First, get a loaded factory hull. You will use this as your template. Now back of the screw/sem seater in the crimp die so that it cannot apply any pressure to the hull. Put your factory round under the die and pull the handle. The die needs to be screwed up or down until it set on the hull snugly but not to the point that it changes the hull dimensionally. With the hull in the die, screw down the center stem until it makes full contact. This should be spot on. Minor adjustments can be made to this station as you run some rounds through it.
     
  10. acorange

    acorange Well-Known Member

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    Tigman,
    I have this loaders twin that I recently purchased on-line.
    This is a very timely thread for me but I have not had a chance to do much work on this loader yet.
    Wish there was a way to put a auto primer feed on one of these instead of handling primers.
    Wether it is farm machinery or reloaders I love the challenge of making a obsolete POS useful again.
     
  11. 333t

    333t Member

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    I bought a Pacific 350 a few years ago that had a primer feed. I had to rebuild the bottom release foot but got it working just fine and used it quite a while. The primer feed system almost looked like a factory add-on but it's hard to say. A shell plate off a 360 with the primer holes is required.

    Phil
     
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