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P/W Problem/Question.

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by Pat McKean, Jun 5, 2007.

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  1. Pat McKean

    Pat McKean Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
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    Location:
    Alta California
    You might have some loose pieces of shot jamming up the gears and the rack. Take the hoppers / tubes off and clean everything out. On mine, the bushings did not line up exactly with the holes for the powder and shot drops with the handle pulled down, but they were close enough and you can change them a tooth or so if you want- it'll still work. You might also make sure your handle is tight. If it isn't, you may not be getting enough travel to work the linkage.


    Whiz White will know what to do....


    Pat
     
  2. fssberson

    fssberson Active Member

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    Move the timing gears one notch to effect a full drop. Fred
     
  3. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    If you move the gears forward one notch for better alignment with the drop tubes I think this will cause more misalignment when the gears go back under the powder and shot hopper.

    Pat Ireland
     
  4. dward

    dward Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
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    See how much play exists between the arm up to the gear/slide and the arms down to the drive arm. When new there is none and with time, more develops. Where the arms attach to the hexagonal pin, slack develops and keeps the powder bar from being pushed back and forth as far as necessary. If this is the problem you can try reversing the pin, but on a machine that old you may need to replace the three arms and the hexagonal pin.

    The dots are lined up for a reason, so they should stay that way.

    My 2 cents - Big Dan
     
  5. fssberson

    fssberson Active Member

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    Pat Ireland: The more recent PW's do not have the same care to tolerances as did the older machines. In my new PW Platinum 2000, I could not get the shot bushing out because it did not go all the way to complete the drop cycle. By moving one gear notch I could remove the shot drop bushing, got a complete shot drop AND it did not affect the shot drop re-fill. I just remarked the gear as to where it aligned up with the original mark. The powder bushing seemed to be fine as it came from the factory. I can go into other problems with the 800B and the 2000 Platinum, but will hold my experiences. 2006 - 07 year were not a good reloading year for me with PW -- Whiz White kept my sanity. Fred
     
  6. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Location:
    Rapid City SD
    If you have to move the gears out of factory timing, then there is something wrong, obviously.

    If they are 1/8 out of alignment, I wouldn't get excited, BUT you can always attempt to make the following adjustment. Problem is that some owners think advancing the timing helps them remove their bushings more easily. This can be simply done by pulling on the Rack Gear (mentioned in the manual) out toward you to get enough slack to easily pull the bushing through a Bushing Access Plate, should you have one.

    The factory builds and repairs reloaders (as do I) in the following manner particularly in how the Rack Gear operates. After removing BOTH the Primer Seating Assembly AND the Shell Seating Post, the machine's Index Pad's height is set with the machine in 100% home position (handle ALL THE WAY BACK). In this EXACT position, the link on top that moves the Rack Gear, is ALL THE WAY back touching, but not tightly forced against the rear of the top Toolhead.

    This setting is altered by raising/lowering the Index Pad. As you push the handle all the way back the Top Link (and without the Rack Gear in place) should ONLY "just touch" the rear of the top Toolhead.

    CONDITIONS CAUSING ONE TO ALTER GEAR ALIGNMENT: If the Index Pad is too high, the crosshead will not lower fully, and in turn, that Top Link will NOT go all the way back, causing a possible insufficient powder and shot pickup.

    The converse is also true. In fact if the Index Pad is not high enough, you will put too much strain on the Top AND Bottom Links, and eventually crack/break either or both Links, or the Hex Shaft running horizontally in and through the shell knockout shaft. Links are designed to break, NOT BEND.

    Once the factory or I have set the correct Index Pad height, I will then install the Shell Seating Post and set its height such that the inserted hull is JUST FLUSH with the base of the die. Then on to the Primer Seating Assembly to sets the primer just flush with the base of the hull.

    I've re-read this a few times trying to make it simpler for you, but what I've typed (difficulty with my carpel tunnel in my left hand) is important should you decide to delve into this adjustment process.

    Also remember that when changing adjustment in three areas you introduce some problems in permutations and combinations: Change 3 adjustments, and you can end up with 3x2x1=6 possible outcomes. Change 4, 4x3x2x1=24 possible outcomes... so be careful, methodical, and make notes or marks.

    Here's a pic of the linkage for you...

    [​IMG]

    Whiz White<BR>
    P/W Distributor
     
  7. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    Fred, I had the same type problem with my Patinum. I could not get the powder bushing out after pulling the rack gear forward. I pushed the hopper assembly over to the right and that gave me enough room.
     
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