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P/W Owners

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by Kfart, Apr 5, 2008.

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  1. Kfart

    Kfart TS Member

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    Have you had trouble with inconsistent powder charges? And have you pulled out the dies (in this case an 800+) and checked a series of powder charges for consistency of dumpings? I have fought this trouble for over two years from a brand new machine, and am in the proving state of having found a fix. It all started with a couple of duds out of a hundred. Sometimes we were having as many as 10/box--with as many as three different numbers and manufacturers of powders. Please respond if you have had any of these kinds of trouble. I am 99% sure I have found a manufacturing flaw in the reloader.

    Robert Maasberg, Farson, WY
     
  2. Andy Ott

    Andy Ott Guest

    Hows about sharing this little tid bit with us?
     
  3. ljutic73

    ljutic73 Well-Known Member

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    Back when I was still realoading (read my post on Whiz White's thread), I liked to use WW's AA powders because they burned so clean. They constantly leaked a wee bit every time I pulled the handle. That WAS consistent. PW didn't have an answer back then.
     
  4. nipper

    nipper TS Member

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    i use red dot and drop 16.5 grains every pull and still check once every now and again.

    bill
     
  5. Kfart

    Kfart TS Member

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    Andy

    I have found the trouble to be in the feeding tube between the powder hopper and the die itself. Since I have a metal lathe, and made some changes in the diameter of the feeding tube, it has cured my problem using Clay's 700X and 800X. I have not tried any Red Dot, and if we ever have any good weather around here, I would like to fire a few hundred rounds more to totally prove myself on this fix. Then I can give you more details, but for the first time I am dropping consistent loads, and have consistency in my shells. I want to be 100% sure when I give you my dimensions for the fix. I blamed it on static electricity for a long time. Grounded my reloader, but this did not affect this problem. Stay in touch, and if we have a good day tomorrow, a few hundred more rounds and I can give you a definite answer.

    Robert Maasberg
     
  6. Capt. Morgan

    Capt. Morgan TS Member

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    I have 3 P-Ws; 2 900s and a 1000. One of the 900s had the powder gear out of time by one tooth when I got it because the previous owner thought the bushing didn't line up with removal port properly. Correcting that fixed the inconsistent drops.

    Each machine will drop weights that are within a max of .2 grains all day long with powders PB, Unique, Clays, Green Dot, Promo, Tite Wad and others.

    Good luck with your modification.

    Morgan
     
  7. dennis toews

    dennis toews Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    The powder gear out of time with the index mark will definitely do it, I had another situation which drove me crazy with my PW, the same problem, inconsitent powder charges, very extreme on the low side. I finally solved the problem, when loading my 25 pound shot tube from the Lawrence plastic shot bag, one strand of the plastic from the bag fell in the powder tube and the strand was hanging in the powder bushing. From that point on I never fill shot without putting the cap on the powder tube. The bad part was I loaded probably 40 boxes of shells in one sitting, now had to dismantle all.
     
  8. Kfart

    Kfart TS Member

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    Over the period of a couple of years, I always checked the timing and made sure there was nothing in my powder hopper. The problem of blooper loads made my loads unreliable. They were OK for practice, but even in practice there was a persistent blooper load. It finally came to the point that I was having trouble even draining the powder out of the drain tube. That is when I pulled all my shell dies out, started checking loads, and my normal for that load should throw 17 grains of 700X. In a matter of less that five rounds of dumping powder I would be down to 10 grains or less. So I machined a sleeve that narrows down the normal throat of 1/2 inch to, at the moment I don't have the exact figure because it is in my reloader, approximately 5/16 of an inch (maybe 3/8 of an inch). Now my powder flows into the die at a straighter shot without having a bridge and I can drain the powder out of there with no problem. I am dumping consistent loads now. There is no doubt in my mind this has plagued for a long time with the inconsistent loads and with three different powders I use.

    I called and discussed the problem with a fellow at Alliant Powders at length, about a year ago. If I recall, his name was Ben, and I plan to call him back shortly. When I told him about my problem with inconsistent loads, the first thing he asked me was, "Are you using a P/W loader?" Apparently I am not the only one out here that is having that trouble. After a lot of thinking it is a simple fix.

    Robert Maasberg
     
  9. nipper

    nipper TS Member

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    If someone actually reads the pw owners manual it states the timing marks are very very important.

    Bill
     
  10. Capt. Morgan

    Capt. Morgan TS Member

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    "Now my powder flows into the die at a straighter shot without having a bridge and I can drain the powder out of there with no problem."

    What is this "bridge" you're referring to??

    I also found that the O-ring that seals the gear to the hopper body on one of the 900s had somehow dislodged itself and slide up into the passage that brings the powder down from the hopper. That one drove me nuts until I found it. A new O-ring corrected the condition but the new one squeaks.

    Morgan
     
  11. ric3677

    ric3677 Well-Known Member

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    Morgan....happened to me on an old 800....and it happened just before I went to Lethbridge. Had to buy all new ammo for me and my boy...LOL I didn't bother wasting the ammo.....shot it up for practice. Had to listen to everyone about how I should have put some powder in with the shot. Never would do it at todays prices of lead.
     
  12. skeeljc

    skeeljc Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    The powder seal (round or square) MUST be glued in place or it will roll and be cut and can restrict the flow of powder. This is true on the older cast aluminum base plates and the newer EZ-Fill plastic base. I don't know if Ponsness Warren provides provides instruction on how to install a new seal. I have glued them in place with Super-Glue.

    I don't know how reducing the diameter of the hole in the powder riser can improve the powder flow unless the rubber seal is loose and it is blocking the powder flow.

    Jim Skeel
     
  13. Kfart

    Kfart TS Member

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    I have never had O ring trouble, I've checked every time I've taken the hopper off. My machine has always been in time, so that has not been a factor in my problem. All I can tell you is since I have reduced the diameter of the throat going from the powder hopper into the die, instead of having a step from a 1/2 inch hole in the powder chute going a die that is considerably smaller (in this case an H size die)I am getting a smooth powder flow into the die and my reloader now works.

    We shot approximately ten boxes of shells today and every shell was a good solid load. If you are not having problem with your P/W--great! I would recommend that you just keep going on doing what you are doing. In my case I've been fighting this for over two years, and I can tell you that I have finally fixed the problem. If this thread can help you--great!

    What I meant by the powder bridge was possibly powder is compacting in that area with some types of powders and it is not getting a complete, consistent die fill every time the die rotates. Theoretically, that should be an impossiblity because powder shoudl flow into that die with no problem. However, I had a problem that persisted and I am very happy with my fix.

    Robert Maasberg
     
  14. Capt. Morgan

    Capt. Morgan TS Member

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    "What I meant by the powder bridge was possibly powder is compacting in that area with some types of powders and it is not getting a complete, consistent die fill every time the die rotates."

    Is there no powder baffle in the bottom of your powder hopper to prevent compacting?

    Morgan
     
  15. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    If you have to advance/retard the timing marks, this is a sign of another problem that needs to be addressed. You should NOT change the timing.

    I normally see this comment with the 800's, but it can also be with the 900/950/Platinums. It has to do with correct Index Pad height, or Index Pad Post height.

    BUT DO NOT start adjusting this height until you know what is all involved. Repeat - DO NOT CHANGE ITS HEIGHT. Changing that height will directly effect the timing, including the gears, shell seating, and priming.

    Whiz White
     
  16. grunt

    grunt TS Supporters TS Supporters

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  17. three-reloaders

    three-reloaders TS Member

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    I bought two low profile power and shot tops. The power was bridging, machines grounded and static stips. Had to put top in drill press and clamp it. Drilled powder tube with 9/16" spade wood drill on low speed. No more problem. If you look at older tubes they were straight. Fix it for me. Glad someone else had a problem and found the fix besides me.
     
  18. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    I will repeat the warning by Whiz. Do not change the timing mark alignment. You can easily take off the powder/shot hoppers and align the powder gear with the drop hole. But, when the handle is puled down, the powder bushing must align with a second hole under the powder hopper. You cannot change the timing without changing the alignment with both holes.

    dennist- I was pleased to read your post about problems with the plastic strands from a shot bag partially plugging shot/powder drop tubes. For some time, I believed I was the only person who had ever had this problem. Now I know there are two of us.

    Pat Ireland
     
  19. Capt. Morgan

    Capt. Morgan TS Member

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    Whiz has stated in the past that people often change the timing of the gears because they think that the bushings should automatically line up with the removal ports when they are to be removed. Whiz has also recommended that it is normal to need to pull forward on the gear rack to complete the alignment to remove the bushings.

    Morgan
     
  20. nipper

    nipper TS Member

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    Once again if you read the manual it states, you might have to pull on the bar and then you will be able to remove the bushings, am i the only one who actually reads manuals??

    bill
     
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