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P/W Auto Hull Feeder

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by AEP, Dec 18, 2011.

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  1. AEP

    AEP Member

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    I just set-up a P/W hull feeder. There are 2 problems.

    1. The hulls get jammed up at the top of the shell disk where the hulls drop in the top of the shell chute. When this happens I'm finding a hull stuck about 1" down from the top of the shell chute. This stuck hull allows another hull to remain at the top which causes the hull in the shell disk to jam between the shell disk and the shell hopper.

    2. When it does work it seems slow. It won't keep up with my manual pulling.

    Are these Auto Shell-Feeders worth it?

    I would appreciate any help.

    Andy P
     
  2. citadel

    citadel Active Member

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    What is going on is that the dropping shell is getting stuck on the switch that controls the system. You need to remove the four screws that hold the chute cover and bend the switch in a very small amount and then put the cover back. This should let the shell drop freely. The switch needs to be set so that it shuts down the feeder when the chute is full. It takes a bit of fooling around and adjustment but when you get it right it is a great tool.

    As to speed I can load about 450 to 500 per hour using the feeder and find it to be a wonderful addition to my loading. I have two of them on two different loaders, one for 7/8 oz with a electric motor drive and one for heavier loads that I pull by hand. I can load nearly as many by hand rather than using the electric drive but when I want to load 1000 or more rounds I like to use the electric drive and the shell feeder and it makes the work much easier than pulling the darn thing 1000 times.

    Doug
     
  3. goose2

    goose2 Well-Known Member

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    Shell feeder and auto drive are the only way to go.
     
  4. Carl Spackler

    Carl Spackler TS Member

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    Citadel is right on with his diagnosis. I also noticed that it works best if you keep the hopper more than half full at all times. Once you have all the little things working, I agree it's the only way to go!
     
  5. shot410ga

    shot410ga Well-Known Member

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    I have a problem with the shell feeder. The activating arm (chain activated) that pushes the shell into the shell holder (station one) does not move smoothly (jerks) and sometimes (a lot) the shell get smashed into the plastic insert in the shell plate, breaking it. It's become such a problem I quit using the shell feeder. I've lube it, smooth it with 600 grit, adjusted it many times, and still can not get it to work consistently, with out breaking the plastic insert ($6.00+ each). Any suggestions?
     
  6. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

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    shot410ga,

    Check to see if the bottom of the drop tube is squeezing in on the arm.

    Over time the plastic tends to drift inwards and thus pinches on the arm. A little work with a file should solve it.

    If not that pull the whole unit out of the loader and check for shot build up under the spring loaded shell seater. Over time shot can get caught and flattened in there - will cause the shell seater to stick up a bit too high - shells can catch on this, and it tends to be intermittent.

    Further, Whiz White sells an aluminum shell plate for the machine. I think it's $15 plus P & H
     
  7. citadel

    citadel Active Member

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    The other thing that happens is that the track for the shell ram gets dirty and sticky with old powder and junk. It is necessary to keep it very clean or it will not retract all the way and when it does not go all the way back you have a real mess on your hands with shells not droping or the ram staying under the turntable and jambing up the works. The way to keep it clean is to remove the screw on the right side of the ram that holds it in place and remove the ram and clean the aluminum track that the ram slids in very well. In addition I have used some very fine emory paper and sanded down the bottom and both sides of the ram to give it a little more freedom of movement. That plus the correct allignment of teh plastic tube are very important to keeping it working.

    To align the tube just loosen the two screws that hold the plastic tube in place a little and twist and move the tube around by hand while at the same time moving the ram in and out to get the tube in the most friction free position then tighten the screws up a bit, try the ram movement and keep doing that until the screws are tight and the ram moves freely and get back to reloading.

    Be sure to keep the bottom of the shell seat very clean. As the post above notes a single bit of shot, metal or junk on the shell seat will cause the shell to tip a bit and you will have a crushed shell for sure.

    Good luck,
    Doug
     
  8. len loma

    len loma TS Member

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    I had 2 problems with my hull feeder. The limit switch arm bends and hangs up hulls. 2nd is the hulls not laying in wheel slot correctly and then get pinched between wheel and tub just before chute. I replaced the limit switch with a photo eye. Installed two silicone rubber fingers in tub. They are staged on inside of tub where hulls incline. Fingers clothes line (knocks off) hulls sitting upright in slot as they rise. Fingers are super flexible so it does not stop motor. Eliminated that pinching hull problem. I am very happy with how feeder works now and can really crank out the loads. Len
     
  9. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    Also look down from the top and make sure the shutoff switch lever is centered in the drop chute and not off to one side.
     
  10. shot410ga

    shot410ga Well-Known Member

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    Aluminum shell plate? Do you mean to replace the plastic device that slides in the loader. That's the part that breaks consistently when the shell is crushed.
     
  11. Carl Spackler

    Carl Spackler TS Member

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    Thats the part. I've been running one for some time. You still need to be aware of what is happening, depending on how hard you crush the shell, you can still damage the aluminum one.
     
  12. shot410ga

    shot410ga Well-Known Member

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    Everything is happening very fast using the electric drive. But, you think that will cure the problem? Did you have the same problem with the plastic part that I have?
     
  13. Carl Spackler

    Carl Spackler TS Member

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    I don't think that has anything to do with the problem you stated above. I just reference the aluminum piece as an addition to "beef up" your machine. I would on occasion lose track of whats happening, ultimately running an empty into the shell plate, breaking it as you stated. The aluminum shell plate just allows slightly more abuse, and will not break, bend yes, break no. As it was stated above, there are a few things to look at. One being the block that slides to feed the shell into the seating position.I keep this clean and "lubricate" it with powdered graphite.Whiz White can supply this if you need some. Try to refrain from using grease or anything else that holds dirt, this will only cause problems after awhile.

    Another thing to look at is the teflon liner that looks like a top hat. This is the piece that the main feeding block houses, that is used to slide on the shell seating post. This was one of my main problems that I have yet to find a cure. Basically what happens is the liner becomes dirty and creates drag. The more you use it the worse it gets. eventually the stroke on the shell seating post becomes eratic, sticky if you will. Once and a while it will stick, slam up, sending the next hull out of position. Again, powdered graphite works the best, out of things I have tried. These may attribute to your problems...
     
  14. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    The early shell feeders used a clear acrylic plastic drop tube. There were easily broken at the bottom, but the new drop tubes are butyrate, a forgiving flexible plastic.

    $29.00

    Whiz
     
  15. goose2

    goose2 Well-Known Member

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    Also if a piece shot ends up on the top of the shell seating post it could cause the shell to be tipped when entering the die causing the plastic piece to be broke. I found this out after I broke two brand new ones, so keep the top of the shell seating post clean.
     
  16. soup

    soup Member

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  17. AEP

    AEP Member

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    Update:

    I spoke with P/W andthey are sending me a new rotating disk. Mine is warpped. This should cure the problem. I chucked the disk on the lathe and it is out about 3/16". According to P/W the disk should be fairly flat. I applied pressure to force the disk to be closer to the hopper and no hulls jammed.

    The hulls getting stuck in the drop, at the micro swithc, was due to the micro switch being cocked. I straightend it and it works good. I had to adjust the metal switch arm and so far it seems to work good. It even stops when the hulls build up to the switch.

    Andy
     
  18. shot410ga

    shot410ga Well-Known Member

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    Carl: The block seems to be the issue. It pops forward, apparently, just after it should, jamming the shell under the forward part of the plastic insert, breaking it and crushing the shell. It's not a smooth move, jerky at best. I'll try the graphite. I've tried everything else.
     
  19. Carl Spackler

    Carl Spackler TS Member

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    One other thing to check is the plastic "spacer" that guides the chain and takes slack out as the machine cycles. You may want to find a metal relacement for this, as it will eliminate the chain drag. This seemed to smooth the cycle and reduce some of the jerk as you stated. I mention this as a low cost and simple addition that takes possible problems out one at a time.

    As far as the graphite goes, I place it behind the block when it is in the "feed position" (top of stroke) I place it in the corners and down the center, where the block may bind. The reason I place it behind the block is when it cycles, the excess graphite halls off the back instead of on the shell seating post and sleeve. It's worked well thus far, but every machine has it's own personality. Good Luck!
     
  20. goose2

    goose2 Well-Known Member

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    Reading this thread got me in the mood to reload so I loaded two flats of shells without any hiccups at all. Wow what a machine.
     
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