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P/W 800 CVT .410 Crimp Problems????

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by mt92, Aug 15, 2009.

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  1. mt92

    mt92 Member

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    After alot of machine work I am finally loading shells with the old 800c I just purchased.
    I mainly use Dillon and the P/W is new to me, I am having problem getting a consitent crimp. The starter crimp station is not the same twice, the bearing is free and I have tried setting it up or down more with no luck.

    Any Ideas? I hated to bug Whiz again.

    Thanks Mike
     
  2. Gross Man

    Gross Man Member

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    Mike - What kind of pre-crimp do you have? I had a similar problem. I had a cup type pre-crimp, and after calling PW, I found out that they recommend the wire type pre-crimp for 410. It indexes a lot better to the folds. That fixed my problem with an 800B. Billy
     
  3. mt92

    mt92 Member

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    My precrimp has two wires to locate on the old crimp folds. It seems it needs more taper inside or something.

    Thanks Mike
     
  4. skeezix

    skeezix Member

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    You don't want very much pre-crimp on the .410 set it so that it just ever so slightly reforms the mouth of the case.

    I slow down a bit also when loading .410 - if the indexing is even a little behind you will ruin your hulls at the wad seating station. Even if they don't catch the powder cup on the hull mouth, they will come in slightly offset and split the hull at the crimp folds.

    The .410 is a bit of a bugger. Mine works well with relatively new hulls- I get a lot of mangled crimps when the cases have been shot a few times. I am going to try a case mouth conditioner to see if that helps (available from PW, it slides up on the depriming pin I think.) I think if the case mouth is generally nice and round they load better - if they get a bit out of round - I seem to have issues.

    If you're loading a real fine ball powder - there are some things you need to do or you will have powder migration issues.

    Also - be careful at the hull seating post - any wobble or if the base of the hull isn't dead flat - you will catch the hull mouth on the sizing die and ruin the hull. there are a couple fixes for this as well if you're interested.

    John
     
  5. Gross Man

    Gross Man Member

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    John - I have had similar experiences with 410 hulls that have been shot twice or more. I would definitely recommend the Flare Tool that you described. It has helped me a lot. I had a problem with the new shot drop tube, that shrouds the outside of the hull. An out of round hull would catch an edge on the shroud and spill shot. The flare tool has minimized that. Billy
     
  6. skeezix

    skeezix Member

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    do you see any isues with hull life after using the flair tool?

    I countersunk the hull seating post to a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the outside rim of the primer- then I drilled a 5/16 hole centered in the countersink deep enough to inset a small but powerful magnet. it grabs the hull and holds it dead still - no more crunch at the hull seating station.

    john
     
  7. Gross Man

    Gross Man Member

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    John - I just started using the 410 Flare Tool, so I can't say for sure what it does for shell life. My guess is that you get 3-4 reloads in any case. I like the magnet idea. Billy
     
  8. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    The ball-bearing is bad. They all get this way because the race was not designed to be placed horizontally in the pre-crimp housing AND then get the force applied sideways to the race.

    Replace the ball-bearing.

    I have replacements. They are $9.95.

    Whiz
     
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