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OT Frozen Brake Drums

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by TC, Nov 20, 2011.

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  1. TC

    TC TS Member

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    Trying to move a '57 Chevy that has sat in the dirt up to the axles for 30 years. Wheels will not rotate, brake shoes are rusted to the drums. Trying to remove the drums. Rivets were removed at some time in the past. Due to design of backing plates, normal puller will not work. PB Blaster and 2 lb. hammer have not been effective. Has anybody tackled this before?
     
  2. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    Loosen the brake line, release the emergency brake, take that 2lb hammer and gently tap the outside of the drum until it brakes loose. HMB
     
  3. 320090T

    320090T Well-Known Member

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    Wire wheel a "line" across the drum, lay the cutting torch flat and slit the drum off. Been there, done that.
     
  4. motordoctor

    motordoctor Shoji Tabuchi in Branson

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    ther should be a knockout either on the backing plate or the drum. you might try a screwdriver into the hole and loosen the adjuster or even try and knock it out completely. it is a screw thread that spreads two pieces taking up the adjustment on the shoes. you might be able to knock it out completely or if things get bad use a cutting torch to remove it.
     
  5. high 2

    high 2 Member

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    Did brakes and front ends when I was young man. It depends on what you're planning on with the 57. I think 320090T hit it on the head. Put the blue nose wrench to it. Larry
     
  6. jwells

    jwells Member

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    burn it off, after 30 years in the mud that is the least of your problems
     
  7. jrton80

    jrton80 Member

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    I can't talk to your current problem but a youngster from down the street works at Advance Auto Parts and he told me that a product called "Sea Foam Deep Creep" that has been getting a lot of great reports from customers. I bought some and use it on some of the bolts/nuts/fitting on my 1970 Camaro. The stuff is really giving me the best results that I have had with any penetrating oil I have used before (nothing beats heat thought in some parts). Keep it in mind as a suggestion once you get the brakes worked on. Jeff Rickert
     
  8. sliverbulletexpress

    sliverbulletexpress TS Member

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    I have some experience with that year model and condition. The axle bearings are pressed onto the axles and held in the housing by a plate with four studs and nuts the nuts being accessible only after the brake drum is off. You probably know that but just in case.

    I've seen the brake drum rusted to the axle right at the point the drum fits tightly around the axle. I suspect that is where the drum is stuck, usually if the brakes are holding the drum if you pry enough on the drum the shoes will let go or springs break. If you have access to air and a air chisel with a flat tool soak the axle where it sticks out from the drum with good penetrating oil and then use the air hammer on the flat surface around that area. Many times this will break the rust bond between the axle and brake drum. If you can't do that you can try heating the area with an acetylene torch and follow up with some good heavy sledge hammer blows.

    If all else fails cut the drum off it probably will need new drums anyway.
     
  9. Remstar311

    Remstar311 Member

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    Step 1

    Air hammer it with a blunt tip all around the front. That will break a lot of the adhesions. Then try to beat it.

    Step 2

    Torch.

    Good luck,

    Nick
     
  10. 682LINY

    682LINY Member

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    if no torch just cut a shallow groove across drum and hit with hammer or hammer and chisel,, it will crack,, do it again and break out piece inbetween,,,now you got a start
     
  11. magnumshot

    magnumshot Active Member

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    I'd try a sledge all around the drum, then put a wheel on and try to break it free. I'd heat it with a torch if that doesn't work and do it again.
     
  12. 682LINY

    682LINY Member

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    you do have wheel berring nut and washer off from under the grease cap right
     
  13. Three Yellow Dogs

    Three Yellow Dogs TS Member

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    If is frozen put it in a warm garage.
     
  14. TC

    TC TS Member

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    Will try to find some of the Seafoam Deep Creep and see if that will work better than the PB Blaster. No longer have my torch, would a MAP gas torch get hot enough? If not I might have to crack them. Thanks.
     
  15. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    The Map gas might be enough to heat it with some patience but will get nowhere near hot enough to cut. For that you need oxy/acetylene. These fellas have given you some great advice and I learned a few new tricks myself. Having dealt with severely rusted old parts myself in the past, I can relate to the frustration your are experiencing.

    Good luck.
     
  16. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    There ia a tool that was used just for that. It was a pully that was made to pull stuck drums. If you want to use a hammer get a dead blow hammer. Its a hammer that is plastic and with shot inside. It will not bounce back. All power goes inward. The steel hammer might crack the drum. Good luck.
     
  17. stokinpls

    stokinpls Well-Known Member

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    My experience with MAP gas is, about the time you have the object hot, the 02 runs out. Good luck.
     
  18. sliverbulletexpress

    sliverbulletexpress TS Member

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    Yeh map gas won't work for this, has to be the big torch.

    I thought on first reading it was the rear you are having problem with but on re-reading that isn't clear.

    The info about bolting the wheel and tire back on after removing the wheel bearing nut and washer and using the tire as leverage to pull the drum off is correct for the front, but will not work for the rear at all.

    Has the car been sitting in a field or something without wheels and tires or does it have tires on it but just sank down in the dirt and the wheels won't turn?

    There is plenty of experience on this site to help you get this done. I assume you are trying to move it onto a trailer or something?
     
  19. TC

    TC TS Member

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    Was sitting behind the barn, tires rotted, rims sunk into the dirt all the way to the drums. Both front and rear. Star wheel adjustments are also frozen.

    '50's Chevy drums normally just slide off the axle hubs if they aren't riveted. Sometimes you have to give them a little tap with a hammer.

    Because the backing plates are aprox. 1/4" larger in diameter there isn't any way to use any type of puller that I have found. Also you cannot hit on the back side of the drum because of the backing plate.

    Am trying to get it onto a regular car trailer. Don't think the winch will handle it if the wheels won't rotate.
     
  20. kriegart

    kriegart Member

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    You need 3 things. 1, safety glasses. 2, a BFH (big hammer). 3, swinging room. Brake drums are cheep. break them apart. Good luck.
     
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