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OT , Cadillac problem

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by bigbore613, May 24, 2010.

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  1. bigbore613

    bigbore613 Active Member

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    I have a 92 Seville ,last Monday ,first thing in the morning put key in ignition ,turned , nothing. No click .battery good. Moved shifter to Neutral still nothing tried multiple times. Had get other car out go and return an hour later tried again and started fine. Drove all week no problems until Friday , returning from work go to bank ,come out same thing. This time car was hot from driving tried same things again, even disconected battery for a few ninutes. nothing . Came back later started fine . Now scared to drive. No trouble lights on dash. Could be the Key ? All help appreciated. Jeff
     
  2. mixer

    mixer Well-Known Member

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    I would have the ignition switch in the steering column checked. After 18 years of use things do wear out.

    Eric
     
  3. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    changing the ignition switch is a simple 10 minuted job and you can get a new one at NAPA for under $100
     
  4. bigbore613

    bigbore613 Active Member

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    This is one of the first ones with the chip in the middle of the key. If I have to change the switch do I use the old tumbler so the key will still work the anti theft ? Thanks , Jeff
     
  5. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    Lost me on that one
     
  6. cadillac tech

    cadillac tech TS Member

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    The new switch will come with a key with out a chip,but it will have numbers.The old key will have to be read for the chip code and a new coded key will have to be cut. If this is a problem it will set a message on the ipc panel ( Wait 3 minutes and try restart).By the way you will need some special tools and disable the air bag before working on the steering column,it is not a ten minute job. Jim Arbella
     
  7. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    Thats why I drive a Ford, just push the button, stick the key in and turn and the whole switch comes out - GM must be different
     
  8. maka

    maka Member

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    Have got a second key? The reason I asked is I had a vehicle I used the same key for many years, turned out key was worn out. Put second key in and everything was back to normal. Just a thought.
     
  9. Shooting Coach

    Shooting Coach Banned User Banned

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    Does the "security" light flash when the car fails to start?

    If so, the easy fix is to disable the security module. These things are the pits when they get age on them.

    If not, the starter solenoid may be failing. Set up a semi-permanent test light to the starter solenoid. There is a large purple wire going to the solenoid that is in the big cluster near the steering wheel at the firewall. If the light does not come on when you hit the switch and it fails to start, it is the security module. If the light comes on but the starter will not engage when hot, it is likely the solenoid.

    Hot tip. If the solenoid is shot, the starter is not far behind.
     
  10. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    There should be a code in there to give you a clue. You probably lost the code when you disconnected the battery, but if it happens again you should have a code.

    The Caddy I had would give you codes if you pushed the temp control buttons a certain way, but I had to go to the library and copy the Chilton manual page with code explanations.

    Or have Auto zone read it for you.

    HM
     
  11. AveragEd

    AveragEd Well-Known Member

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    Remember, there is an ignition LOCK and an ignition SWITCH. The lock is the cylinder you insert the key into and the switch is further down the steering column. The lock might not be reading the key's chip correctly or the switch is not closing all the time.

    As I recall (and I'm trying desperately to forget this stuff), the HVAC keys to depress are "OFF" and "WARMER."

    Ed
     
  12. Bruce Specht

    Bruce Specht Well-Known Member

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    First thing to check, make sure that the connections at the battery are tight. A loose cable could cause the probelm you explained. Check both the ground side and the power side simple enough to do. Grasp the cables one at a time and check for tightness. Use a volt ohm meter set for 20 volts DC and attach red lead to the positive battery terminal and the blk lead to a metal part of the engine and then a fender. Your meter should read 12+ volts if not scratch the paint from the metal surface and retry. Now that you have the required voltage try moving the battery cables again see if your loosing a connection. You may want to look at the cables themselves, and make sure that they aren't green in color if they are get new ones
     
  13. ArkLaK80

    ArkLaK80 Member

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    I think Bruce is on the money.

    My 97 Chevy Z71 had the same problems. I spent hundreds of dollars during the next 10 months or so replacing everything the other posters have suggested plus more. Turned out to be 3 or 4 inches of the battery cable was corroded on the inside where it couldn't be seen. It wouldn't allow enough juice through to run everything. Cut off the ends and replaced the fittings and not a problem in the last 3 years.

    Ray
     
  14. bigbore613

    bigbore613 Active Member

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    Thanks for the replys . There are no codes or lights coming on.This is before OBD2. The battery is good and the cables look good as well.When it fails nothing will happen out of the ordinary other than the gas gauge pegged when turned to start ,then on and off and went to where it should be. When it fails no juice seems going to the starter.The headlights do not dim when trying to start. I cant make it fail again in the yard and wont risk driving25 miles to work so this weekend will get to the diagnostics. Thanks , Jeff
     
  15. trim tab

    trim tab Active Member

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    Battery checks out good when alis normal, but you probably have a plate in the battery that is loose and twill touch another plate and will cause dead short and you have nothing. Seen it happen many times. Plate problem can be cuased by being loose or when heat builds up.
     
  16. bigbore613

    bigbore613 Active Member

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    Battery is fine . Lights do not dim with attempt to start. Cold or hot. Jeff
     
  17. Limpy100

    Limpy100 Member

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    Big bore; before you do anything else have someone hold the key to start and hit the starter case with a hamer.I have done that on road service call over a dozen times in the past.The starter may need cleaned or replaced.They will act like a bench grinder that you have to spin the wheels to get it to go.
     
  18. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    The clue about no lights on the dash when it happens, tends to point me in the direction of battery cables, grounds, or a battery. The cables can look just fine, but they can have hidden defects that can cause problems like you are encountering. You should do a voltage drop test when the problem occurs. That means, you put a voltmeter across the length of the cable to be tested and notice the voltage drop while cranking. If it cranks and you are under a volt or so, it's probably OK. If it reads higher, or close to 12V, you have an open in the cable under load. The ground connections are often overlooked as well.

    The sequence of testing:

    Step one = verify battery voltage across the battery

    Step two = visual inspection. Look for bulging or odd looking imsulation and corrosion where the connectors are fitted to the cable.

    Step three = do the voltage drop test I described earlier. Do it across the length of the entire cable under load. Do them both. Also test any accessory leads or pigtails from the battery or distribution box the same way.

    Step four = Look for any obvious loose, corroded, or broken fuses or fuse links. Pay careful attention to any Main fuses or links.

    You should be able to diagnose 80%+ of these types of issues with the procedures I listed here. It may vary by vehicle and manufacturer, but they usually have these problems in common. All it takes is a little research, skill, and a good Digital Voltmeter/Multimeter, and the knowledge of how to use it.
     
  19. black_wal_nut

    black_wal_nut TS Member

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    the alternater, i have a 95 sedan deville, same problem, you can get your alt tested for free. at most auto places including napa and auto zone, im almost possitive.

    steven meads
     
  20. Bruce Specht

    Bruce Specht Well-Known Member

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    No lights, no power of any kind when this happens? If you have good bat voltage static 12V (no load) and 13.6V when running; most common cause is a poor connection as in a loose conection, dirty connection or a cable or wire that is in need of replacement. Start with the easiest and least expensive solution to the problem. You also might take a look at your igniton key, is it bent or worn?
     
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