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? on Parker guns

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Shotgun Specialties, Mar 18, 2011.

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  1. Shotgun Specialties

    Shotgun Specialties Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
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    1,139
    For sure I don't know evreything. I have to look at 2 older Parkers tomorrow. 1 is a 12 ga side by side and the other is a 20 ga side by side. Please return the favor and give me what to look for besides the book. And if interested, I'd be glad to pass the savings for info. It's a older neighbor who I think bought them new. Thanks Always, Doug @ SGS
     
  2. TOOLMAKER 251

    TOOLMAKER 251 Active Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    3,398
    Look at the water table for grade such as vh, gh, dh, if there's a e at the end it means ejectors. Beavertail or splinter forend, dogs head plastic butt plate, skeleton butt plate, milled rib vs factory ventilated rib, barrel length, choke, single trigger, double trigger, English grip, pistol grip, position of top lever.
     
  3. settersam

    settersam Member

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    Jul 9, 2007
    Messages:
    35
    It is important to know if barrels are original length. The weight of the barrel is marked on the underside. It is the only way to tell if they are original length. Almost all parts have serial numbers or at least the last couple numbers.
    Dick Mills
     
  4. BILL GRILL

    BILL GRILL Well-Known Member

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    Doug, Frame size is also important. It is marked on water table also. Take a bunch of good pictures.
     
  5. twoatlow8

    twoatlow8 Member

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    Feb 22, 2008
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    411
    If you can supply me the serial numbers I have the book that lists about 80% of the factory ledgers on how the guns left the factory. Original Condition (How it left the Factory) is the most important thing to consider for value.

    This means configuration and Factory ORIGINAL finish! The next thing is Grade this will be marked with a letter or number on the "watertable" this is the flat area of the reciever that the barrels rest on. The number 2 will be a GH the number 8 would be an A1 Special.

    The next thing is gauge, the smaller the better. I think the barrels are most important, here are some things to look for.

    Are the barrels Fluid steel or Damacus? Are they the original lenght? Are the bores pitted? Have the chokes or chambers been modified? It is important to check the wall thickness to be sure the barrels were never honed too thin. Are the ribs in good condition, do the barrels "Ring"?

    Other things that add value are single trigger, automatic ejectors, Beavertail forend, Vent Rib. It is VERY IMPORTANT that these are FACTORY ORIGINAL and not added later!!!

    Is the wood cracked or altered?

    There are a bunch of other things to look for these are the basics.
    I would be interested in these guns if you are going to sell them.... please let me know.

    Good Luck!!!
    Scott
     
  6. WS-1

    WS-1 Banned User Banned

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    Oct 28, 2009
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    3,885
    Don't forget case % of case color, freckling, and % of barrel blue. If you can do a photo essay of the guns and post the pictures, there are VERY knowlegable guys here who will help you determine value and provide a solid marketplace be it for a 12 ga. Trojan full/full or a 28 ga. skeleton butt DHE.

    Kit
     
  7. Roger Brenner

    Roger Brenner Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    660
    Doug: I sent you an email and PM...please give me a call. Thanks, Roger
     
  8. Bruce Em

    Bruce Em Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    902
    Location:
    Upstate NY
    Any demand for Damascus and would anyone shoot them if they had good appearance?

    I would be concerned but have heard to the contrary.

    thanks
     
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