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OK, I purchased a gun with an adjustable comb

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by tomc66, Oct 16, 2012.

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  1. tomc66

    tomc66 Member

    Feb 14, 2008
    I purchased a new gun with an adjustable comb after all you guys told me how important it is. How do I set up the comb and use it? Do I just move it up or down until it feels confortable?
  2. Oregunner

    Oregunner Well-Known Member

    Aug 15, 2006
    Go to the pattern board. Mark
  3. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Banned User Banned

    Apr 6, 2010
    Put it back to its original position, and tighten it down with loctite! LOL

    If you do not have access to a pattern board. Mount the gun several times, concentrating on an object on the wall. Now do it several more times but right before you mount the gun close your eyes, then open them and look down the beads. Make sure they line up, and are stacked. Move the cast accordingly, and re-mount the gun until they do. Keep the top of the comb parallel with the bore front to back, both up and down, and side to side. See the link above. As far as up or down, that is going to take some shooting to determine what your preference is, as far as up and down POI. This is a starting point. Then get out and shoot until the cows come home. I am sure you will get many methods to try. A pattern board will give you more accurate results. Aiming a shotgun at a stationary object, is really not a good method though, IMO.

    Update: I was just kidding about the Loctite.
  4. dead on 4

    dead on 4 Well-Known Member

    Aug 4, 2009
    Buy or Borrow a Phil Kiner; there are two segments pertaining to an adjustable comb, setting up your gun and reading breaks.

  5. wolfram

    wolfram Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2007
    You move the comb the way you want the POI to go. If your are rifle shooting it and 'stacking the beads' nothing will change you will just get a gun that is very uncomfortabe to shoot and have no idea of where the gun shoots when you are on the trap line.

    I 'zero' in by shooting staright away targets on post 3. Adjust the comb up until you start chipping or missing targets measure/mark that position then move the comb down until you start missing again. Measure and mark and split the difference between the max and min settings. Set the comb there and make minor adjustments up/down until you are smoking the targets. Do the same with the left right adjustments such that you are hitting the target hard and not canting the gun. Repeat zeroing excercise in a day or so to confirm you got the gun shooting where you look.
  6. 12ShotTwo

    12ShotTwo Member

    Nov 5, 2010
    The following is a cut & paste from a Terry Jordan email. It can be used in conjunction to what has been said by Stu Flyn. I like to set my comb all the way down and learn the bead relationships to the rib prior to figuring out my POI so I always have a point of reference. Joe

    ""This only applies to more experienced shooters that are shooting the targets where they are supposed to while they are on the rise. Everyone knows you need lead on a left or right angle target but many don't understand vertical lead. Trap targets go up every time more than they go anywhere else.

    The 20" core of your pattern is what smokes a target and most of that core should be above the target to look after the targets rise. A lot of shooters see their gun smoke targets several times in a round of 25 and they feel they have the right point of impact. In reality most guns that shoot 60/40 are 3" to low for 16 yards and way too low for longer yardage handicap. You can be in the upper part of that 20" core shooting a pattern that is too low and too narrow where it hits the target and never know it. This article explains the amount of target rise after the shot is fired.

    Not my writing but it is very good. Terry.

    I've changed the title of this thread, as recommended by Neil. As promised on the Any Mathematicians....lead thread, here is the information obtained from plotting the target flight path and measuring vertical lead for singles and 27yd caps.
    Case A: singles target broken at 34yds from shooter, using a shell throwing 1oz #8 @1150fps (3' vel). Choke: IM. Target speed at break: 44fps. Distance target moves while shot is in transit: 5.3'.
    Case A shot: with the bead centered on the target, the shooter fires when the bird is 96.7' away from him. If he uses a 50/50 gun, the center of his pattern will strike 6 1/8" low at 34yds, because the target will rise that much in the 5.3' it travels waiting for the shot to arrive.
    Case B: 27yd handicap target broken 42yds from shooter, using a Nitro 27 throwing 1 1/8os of #7 1/2 @1235fps (3' vel). Choke: F. Target speed at break: 50fps. Distance target moves while shot is in transit: 7.4'.
    Now let's take an AAA 27 shooter who aims, and uses the sustained lead method. Let's lock the trap to throw a straight-away from Post 3. Target presentation is a 50yd target rising 9' high 10yds from the trap.
    Our AAA 27 shooter is really good, has perfect vision and sees the target the moment it rises above the trap house. He's on it in a flash, centers the bead on the bird and tracks the bird in that manner until it is time to fire.
    Case B shot: with the bead centered on the target, the shooter fires when the bird is 118.6' away from him. With a 50/50 gun, the center of the pattern will strike 13 3/4" low at 42yds.
    So, our AAA 27 shooter needs a gun that shoots 6" high @34yds for singles and 14" high @42yds for caps. Regulating that to 40 yards and converting to ratios for you old timers, our shooter needs a 70/30 gun for singles and a touch more than a 90/10 gun for 27yd caps.
    If our shooter decides to convert his singles gun for caps by inserting spacers under the comb, he will need about three 1/16" spacers. I've been using two 1/16" spacers plus one 1/32" spacer for a while and think it works out just fine.
    If he decides to shoot his 90/10 gun for singles without adjusting it, he will have to hold a touch more than 5" under the Case A target to center it where it breaks. That's about 1 bead diameter between the top of the bead and the bottom of the bird.
    That's just about how I see it on the line. It's nice to see the math and observation confirm each other
  7. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

    Sep 26, 2011
    Do NOT EVER use LocTite on the setscrews on an adjustable comb!!!!

  8. otnot

    otnot Active Member

    Jan 29, 1998
    Use a bench rest at 13 yards and a full choke. You should get a nice hole in the paper at this range. Fire at least 5 times to find POI. If it shoots left move your comb to the left and vise versa for right. If it shoots 1" high your going to be shooting 3" high at 40 yards. My gun is set to shoot 7" high at 13 yards. I think most people would be comfortable with 5" high.

  9. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

    Jan 29, 1998
    Rapid City SD
    Not knowing what you've migrated from, you could install a laser bore sighter and get an idea of how it is now set up and then go from there.

    A couple of important concepts to be aware of when adjusting your comb:<BR>
    1. When you have the height set, set the front of the comb down just a tad bit, and then move the comb's rear up as much and you did the front down. This will then reduce comb kick in the face.

    2. Do the same from side-to-side; set the front a tad bit to the right and rear conversely so.

    In doing these two techniques, you cause the comb to recoil away and NOT into your cheek.

    Some will saw that a laser sighter in useless, however, I feel otherwise... but I always (1) use it as a tool, not a cure-all, and (2) always orient it in the changer the exact same way each time.

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