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O/T water well question

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by Shootrman, Oct 21, 2010.

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  1. Shootrman

    Shootrman Member

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    This is an off topic subject but I respect all the knowledgeable people on here that share their smarts so here goes: My well pump when water is turned on starts and stops every 4-6 seconds. In the middle of the night when no one is running the water I can hear the pump kick on for just a second every now and again. I suspect my holding tank bladder may have a leak and this is why.
    I thought maybe by chance I needed to put air in the holding tank and it would be a quick fix, so when I put a pressure gauge on the stem I got 50psi but also water squirted out. (I think thats a no-no) Others have mentioned check valve. How and all suggestion are welcome and thank you.
     
  2. Shootrman

    Shootrman Member

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    Thank you stubs, I will try this. Thanks for the idea
     
  3. Butler

    Butler TS Member

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    I would guess a bad foot valve, pressure tank or a small home in your supply line, pump up to pressure turn off for 30 minutes and check what pressure have.
    It's got to be going somewhere Jim Butler
     
  4. Prescott Gene

    Prescott Gene Member

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    It sounds like your bladder may, in deed, have a hole in it if water comes out of the air valve. The reason it showed pressure in the tank when you measured was due to the pressure in the system. Stubs is right. Your system is waterlogged (cycling of pump proves this). The air bladder maintains an air bubble at the top of the tank. Expensive fix is change the tank. Cheap fix is to drain all the water out of the tank. Turn off power to pump. Open valves and let it drain. You will probably need to apply air pressure to the air valve to push the water out of the tank. You need to get an air space in the top if the tank. Air compresses, water doesn't. Without the air, as soon as you turn on the faucet, pressure goes from 50 to 0 immediately! With air in the tank, the air will re-expand and maintain the pressure for a while. With tank empty, close all the faucets and turn on the pump. You will need to redo this as needed.

    Gene
     
  5. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    If you have water coming from the air valve the tank bladder is shot. Even so, this should not be causing the pump to kick on and off, unless your using water.

    If no facets are leaking and you see no wet areas, you probably have a hole in the pipe going down the well, especially if you still have a steel pipe.

    I had a pump that would run just the same way, but couldn't hear it run all that often, but after a couple of months with a substantial increase in the electric bill, I knew then something was wrong. The galvanized steel pipe rotted a hole into it. The well guy replaced it with plastic. Apparently the pump could build pressure fast enough to shut off, but water bleeding through the hole would kick it back on.

    Doug
     
  6. Shooting Jack

    Shooting Jack Active Member

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    Location:
    Blackshear, Georgia
    Most tanks have a plug on the side of the bladderless tank and usually you can simply turn the power off open a faucet to drop pressure and then remove the plug on the side of the tank. When the water level gets down to plug simply put plug back in and turn pump back on.

    If it tank that has a bladder, drain the tank close it back up and put, I believe 12 lbs of air in the tank. Turn pump back on. Jackie B.
     
  7. WesleyB

    WesleyB Well-Known Member

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    I second what Gene said. I remember the tanks that didnt have bladders. Had to have a bleader in the side of the tank and an orfice in the line about 10 foot down hole to drain down to capture air and put it in the tank. The bleader with a float on it on the side of the tank actually kept the tank from getting too much air in the tank.

    Like Gene said if water is coming out of the valve stem, seems to me that is a leaky bladder and the fix is a new tank. While your at it put in two tanks for added volume so your pump doent have to cycle as much. Just a thought.

    Good Luck!
    WesleyB
     
  8. Shootrman

    Shootrman Member

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    Thanks guys, I tried turning off the pump and draining the tank. It seemed as if the tank wouldnt completely drain with out adding air, so I continued putting in air until the tank wouldnt hold air with the drain valve open. I then closed the drain spigot, added 40 pounds of pressure, turned on all valves again and turned on the pump. So far(have my fingers crossed) its seemed to have fix the constant on and off. I now have my wife doing a load of wash to see. Thanks guys.....I will now look into a new tank and check valve.
     
  9. hwy13

    hwy13 Member

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    Shootrman:

    I have a suggestion on the air pressure, You want 2 lbs below the cut - in
    switch. Example : If you have a 30 - 50 system the air pressure in
    your tank should be 28 lbs.

    This way the pump doesn't have to work against the pressure to cut - out.

    The pump will kick in at 30 lbs will cut out at 50 lbs, if your gauge is working you can see this effect.

    I believe 40 lbs of air is too high.
     
  10. Haskins Bill

    Haskins Bill TS Member

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    If water came out the schrader valve then the bladder has a hole in it.No way for water to get to that valve unless there is a hole in the diaphram.Forcing the air out of the bladder tank is only a temprary fix as sooner or later it will water log again. the bladder tanks replaced the old style holding tanks years ago. the old style needed a float valve or a diaphram type of valve on them and when the water level reached them they open and make the pump suck air to keep enough air in the tank for normal operation. Bite the bullet and buy a new bladder tank.
     
  11. Shootrman

    Shootrman Member

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    This what my tank asks for. It's a FLOTEC 82 gallon capacity. I hope I read it right on their web site. Thanks guys
     
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