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O.T. scope mounting Question

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by Bubby, Oct 7, 2007.

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  1. Bubby

    Bubby TS Member

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    What do you recomend, 2 piece or 1 piece base???? What color locktite?????
    (I am mounting a Leupold on a Rem 700 270 cal.)

    Thanks,
    Bubby
     
  2. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    Rigidity is always desired in any part of rifle setup. That's why single shot rifles are preferred by benchrest shooters. Scope bases follow that rule, as far as I am concerned.

    Use a one piece base if you have a choice.

    HM
     
  3. jbmi

    jbmi Well-Known Member

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    This is my opinion from past experience, one piece base w/ blue locktite (medium) on the screws holding it to the receiver, do not locktite the ring screws.
    You want to keep the base secure to the receiver, but you do not want to weld them together.
     
  4. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    One piece base and Loctite Blue on the base for sure! Anything tougher and it's difficult to remove without damaging anything. A little heat usually works if the blue gets stubborn. Check the alignment of the rings also and correct it if it's not true. They make special tools for that and for leveling the scopes too.
     
  5. School Teacher

    School Teacher Well-Known Member

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    Bubby:

    As half mile, jbmi, and Quack Shot have commented Loctite blue and a one piece mount on a Remington 700 action work good.

    I have two Rem 700’s and three Marlin 336’s set up with Leupold one piece bases, Leupold low or medium rings and Leupold scopes. All stay zeroed from year to year and are tough as nails.

    However, I have read in various accuracy publications that two piece Leupold bases, properly installed, are as good as the one piece base. They also allow easier loading.

    Years ago I bought a tool from Sinclair International, the accuracy specialists, that is used to true your rings once you install the bases and rings on the action. It consists of a 1” diameter solid steel rod about 8” in length with a handle attached.

    Fred Sinclair is a world class bench rest shooter and probably makes more one piece nylon bore guides than anybody.

    After the bases and rings are installed, you use the tool, along with a lapping compound, to “true” your lower rings. You place the tool in the rings along with the lapping compound. You then move the tool back and forth until you get an even channel in the rings. You can see where the lapping compound removes metal from the rings because the bluing is worn away.

    If your rings are not “true”, you could bend the main tube as the rings will not move.

    Once “trued”, you can move your scopes around from rifle to rifle without a loss of accuracy.

    I seldom move scopes around but using the tool gives me a good feeling about the mount.
     
  6. Old Cowboy

    Old Cowboy Active Member

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    Two-piece Leupold mounts, blue loc-tite on the base mounting screws.

    John C. Saubak
     
  7. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    school_teacher gave some excellent advice.

    Pat Ireland
     
  8. Bubby

    Bubby TS Member

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    Thanks everyone for the replies. One piece, and blue locktite it will be.

    Bubby
     
  9. motrap

    motrap Member

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    school_teacher - Once “trued”, you can move your scopes around from rifle to rifle without a loss of accuracy.


    I agree with everything you said, but I do not understand [completely] what this sentence means in actual use ...........

    Could you elaborate?

    Rudy

    P.S. I have used Leupold 2-piece bases (for the reason school_teacher alluded to) on my Win m/70's for 35 years with total satisfaction.
     
  10. School Teacher

    School Teacher Well-Known Member

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    Motrap:

    You need to re-zero a rifle every time that you mount a scope to it.

    What I meant was that if the rings are not true, you may hurt the accuracy of the scope by bending the main tube. I have not have this experience but if you mount the scope in rings that are not true, then your point of impact may change at different yardages, especially long yardage, as the scope may not be perfectly in line with the bore.

    Most of us, me included, do not shoot at longer than 200 yards. However, if you zero at 100 yards and shoot at 300 plus yards, there could be a difference.

    I have three Ruger 22/77's varmint rifles (2 in .22LR and one in .22 Hornet) and a Ruger 77 Long Range Rifle in .223 Remington. These rifles have integral mounts and rings. I like to move a Leupold 6 x 18 AO dot target scope between these rifles as I cannot afford a Leupold for each. Since I used the lapping tool on each, I can move the Leupold 6 x 18 AO scope without fear of bending the main tube.

    I still have to zero the rifle after the scope is moved. However, at least with the Ruger’s, the rifle will shoot “on paper” at 25 yards immediately after the move so re-zeroing is easy.

    There are a lot more good scopes out there today but I still love the Leupold. Where you really see the difference is when you use the adjustments to change point of impact. Leupold’s are precise and predictable. Most other scopes are a crap shoot.
     
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