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O/T Question for Electricians

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by whiz white, May 12, 2007.

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  1. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    I have a pretty healthy 220 air compressor in my shop. My shop is located on my property sitated away from my home, but close to a neighbor's property.

    My compressor will start running at all hours of the night when the pressure drops. My garage at the shop and the shop itself is all piped with copper all over the place so I do get some minimal leakage at some of the tool fittings.

    Is there some mechanism out there whereby I can prevent the compressor from running, say from 10:00PM until like 8:00AM?

    It's now about 11:00PM and it just started running (I'm still at the shop working some). I ran over to the breaker panel to shut it off - that's what prompted this inquiry.

    The problem is the voltage - 110V would be no problem with a timer, but not aware of any 220 ones.

    Thanks in advance.

    Whiz White
     
  2. Harold

    Harold TS Member

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    Phil, I'm not too fond of your idea about using the 120 volt timer. Yes, you can wire the timer mechanism to the neutral to get 120 but the timer contacts are still interrupting 220 which they may not be rated for.
     
  3. tlea

    tlea TS Member

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    Why not just simplify your life and put a lever-type shutoff valve in the line just after the compressor. Then all you have to do is throw the lever and you can be gone as long as you like and it'll never run.
     
  4. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    Your air compressor is going to use a lot more current than a pool pump.........You need a DPST switch configuration to break both sides of the line.

    You do not have to have a 22oV Timer, if it runs on 110 and has DPST contacts that will carry the load it will work fine.

    That said, Grainger has a water heater timer that is reasonable - around 50 bucks. Part numbers 6X769 or 1A573.

    If your compressor is more than 3 HP or draws more than 40 amps, use alf174's method.

    Lamp timer: 7.50 jor so. Relay: 15 to 30 dollars. You can double up the contacts on a 4 pole relay and increase the current carrying capacity.

    I would make sure I had an amp rating equal to the circuit breaker that now feeds the compressor.

    HM
     
  5. gunner x

    gunner x TS Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    Hey Whiz,

    Keep it simple and safe. A lever type ball cock valve as "tlea" suggested would
    be suffice,positive and cost effective.

    Gunnerx
     
  6. parcours

    parcours Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    66
    Guys, this is simple..

    Use a size 1, 3 pole NEMA starter and a 120v timer. The timer controls the starter coil. If you need a design, let me know.
     
  7. thewolf

    thewolf TS Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2006
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    Check out Grainger supply. They probably have a 220v timer. Or just kick the breaker when leaving the shop. Or put a valve in at the compressor to eliminate leakage.
     
  8. thewolf

    thewolf TS Member

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    Just checked Grainger.com. They got 'em. Found one $98 and they listed many more. Grainger is wholesale only. You may have to have a buddy pick it up for you.
     
  9. thewolf

    thewolf TS Member

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    Just to be clear. The Grainger timers are 220v. No wiring changes just plug and play.
     
  10. motordoctor

    motordoctor Shoji Tabuchi in Branson

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    Location:
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    whiz--cut the chase and save a buck. Like the guys said above. Drain the air from the tank and get a 1/4 turn ball valve from the hardware store. Install it at the outlet to the tank. You have an air leak someplace. Theother thing is to install an on/off box/switch. Just shut the thing off when you leave the shop. My compressor holds air for weeks on end with the ball valve closed and the power off. It's a lot cheaper then a timer and safer. Does the compressor have it's own on/off switch on the pressure relief valve??? it's all you need. You can even unplug it at night but the ball valve will make a big difference. Motordoc
     
  11. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    Electric valve and a timer to control it. Best of both worlds and probably cheap.

    Doubling contacts: Done all the time in power supply applications and from manufacturers to lengthen relay contact life. I have seen it in several pieces of UL approved factory built equipment.

    Perfectly safe,(I am assuming proper wiring practice) but I am no code monkey so I can't say what the rule is if you home brew it.


    HM
     
  12. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    Shut the thing off at the end of every day, open the valve and drain the air and water from the tank. It will last longer. They rust from the inside out.
     
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