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O/T - Mechanic Help Olds Aurora

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by whiz white, Feb 29, 2008.

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  1. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Daughter is at law school in MN, and states that her 1998 Aurora (60,000 miles) while driving down the road at a normal constant speed, will simply just shut off.

    It has the 4.0L Dual-overhead cam 32 valve V8.

    I will be semi-hard to restart, but will do it about one more time and then fine rest of the day.

    Here's what I've done to the car:

    1. Replaced the fuel regulator with OEM AC Delco (I buy AC Delco at jobber)<BR>
    2. Replaced the plugs and injectors<BR>
    3. Replaced fuel filter 2X within last year, Seafoam 2X<BR>
    4. Replaced fuel pump in tank (easy to do in an Aurora)<BR>
    5. I have checked the codes in the computer and nothing stands out, and have deleted all codes.

    I even bought a second diagnostic code checker when I flew up there last time and left if with her... she is clueless on how to run it.

    At this point, I'm thinking it must be something in the electronics that control each cylinders coils, or firing in general, but I'm guessing.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    She's coming in for Spring Break and I either fix it or give her the wife's car. She can't miss classes in law school - that's a no-no for her.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Mr Newbius©

    Mr Newbius© TS Member

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    Your wife, the lovely lady that she is not only needs a new car but deserves a new car since she is your wife and the mother of your children so give her your wifes car and be done with it.
     
  3. blizzard

    blizzard Active Member

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    Sounds like a ground to me. I would start with BAT- cable and go from there...................
     
  4. skinnykid

    skinnykid TS Member

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    I ran into the same trouble on my son-in-laws Aurora. Turned out to be the crankshaft sensors. There were two on his car. GM has a TSB about updated sensors. They are not too bad to change. Both are mounted on the front of the block. Good Luck Dana
     
  5. blizzard

    blizzard Active Member

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    Dana, didn't that situation throw a code?
     
  6. emm2

    emm2 Member

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    crank sensor
     
  7. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    Get down to basics. Look for power and ground issues, especially in the ignition, fuel, and engine control systems. Check all of the related relays as well. The Crank Sensor can also be a trouble spot. You said you cleared codes and nothing stood out. It would be helpful to know IF there were any codes and what they were.
     
  8. backfenceata

    backfenceata TS Member

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    SKINNYKID, may be correct,We have had some issues with the crank sensors on this model. A code reader does not have the ability to diagnoise, only to retrive a limited range of codes. Have a local ASC tech do a scan test of the entire ecm code history and that info should get you on the right page as to the problem. In the mean time do not unhook the battery or clear any code info with your code reader !!! If you do retrieve any codes save the numbers and e-mail me and we can send you the trouble shooting tree for the code. Kirk . Kirks Auto
     
  9. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    We have had several gm ford toyatas with intermittant stall hard start ect ect. A faulty crank or cam sensor will not always throw a code, but can interrupt things enough to cause problems, why it is hard to diag some of these problems. 1st check grounds and connectors.
     
  10. Bruce Specht

    Bruce Specht Well-Known Member

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    Basics would dicate looking for a loose connection may be a bad ground cable? Sounds like checking battery cables would be a place to start, use a multimeter between the positive of the battery and touch the engine and some of the metal parts in the engine compartment. Jouns/bounce the car as you check let the car warm up in case expansion under heat is causing the short circuit.
     
  11. CharlesR1100

    CharlesR1100 TS Member

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    Local dealer ASC tech at this point. You have done the basic, but now it is time for a dealer diagnosis. If you want to keep the car...and your daughter in law school.
     
  12. Mr Newbius©

    Mr Newbius© TS Member

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    Mr White sir,

    I forgot to ask in my above suggestion if your daughter is still single and what discipline of law is she planning on practicing and can I call ya dad or just Mr White?
     
  13. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Hey, Mr. Newbuis&copy, you're a member now, what, 8 days.

    You're just a real funny guy, just be careful and read all the sites rules and regs. Mr. White will work regarless of cicumstances.

    Thanks to the rest of you guys for help.

    I have done most of the checking suggested, but I've not checked (not sure how to do that) the crank sensors.

    I'm pretty handy with engines, as I had a national dragster back in the 60's.

    Whiz White
     
  14. s100whunt

    s100whunt TS Member

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    Replace crank sensor
     
  15. chessney

    chessney TS Member

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    I just had a crank sensor replaced to the tune of $200 The part is $21.00 After the work was done I climbed under there an saw the thing. A two min. job at best....Ziggy
     
  16. skinnykid

    skinnykid TS Member

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    The one I fixed had the crank sensor code in memory the first time I checked the car for the stalling problem,but it never reappeared in the 3 or 4 times after that that I was diagnosing the problem. The TSB mentioned above has ALL the symptoms that you mentioned and that I ran into. This occurrence is very hard to duplicate. It sounds like you have checked the basics, so I would go to the GM dealer an purchase the 2 sensors and crawl under the car! Good Luck, Dana
     
  17. TEXASZEPHYR

    TEXASZEPHYR Member

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    whiz i have a 2000 aurora and had same probems. had crank sensors changed cured probs. i wanna see that guy check the batt against the eng with a meter. better get some really long leads huh?
     
  18. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    texaszephyr

    Doing a voltage drop test under load is very good idea. I have leads long enough to check it from my neighbors driveway. That's why they sell spools of wire at Radio Shack and sell the test lead terminals as well! Any experienced Tech will have the right stuff and make, borrow, or buy it when he doesn't.
     
  19. skinnykid

    skinnykid TS Member

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    Whiz White,
    Did you ever get that Aurora fixed?
    Dana
     
  20. skinnykid

    skinnykid TS Member

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