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O/T Masonry question

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by bigbore613, Jul 17, 2007.

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  1. bigbore613

    bigbore613 Active Member

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    I am trying to test a color match in mortar. My question is what is the ratio in parts for a small sample. All I remember is 14 shovels to a bag. I only want to mix a pint or so. This is on a house built around 1750 and I have the sand that comes from the site and I beleive the right mortar color. Thanks, Jeff
     
  2. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Green Bay Wisconsin
    I use 3 to 1 for tuck pointing. Just did a basement wall last year.

    HM
     
  3. Bisi

    Bisi TS Member

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    1650??? I take it you don't live in the states? I guess it could be Jamestown or Plymouth, heh?
     
  4. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

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    BigBore, I have worked as a carpenter for over 30 years and think I should tell you that you need to cover the plaster on a house with paint or a waterproofing type sealer when you are finished. Plaster is like a sponge and will hold water in your walls. This brings on mold and rot.Good Luck on your project. Break-em all. Jeff
     
  5. claybuster-03

    claybuster-03 TS Member

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    a mason for 25 years 3 to 1 you want it rich for bond. be sure to wet the joint first. the joint needs to be as wide as it is deep. it is real important that you wet the area first for a good bond. I hope this will help you.
     
  6. shannon391

    shannon391 Active Member

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    Modern mortar can actualy damage the masonry units on historic load bearing sructures. Tuckpointing with portland product can transfer the weight to the face of the brick and cause spaling because it is so much stonger than the exsisting mortar joint. Do a search online under Historic tuckpointing for some custom mix advise.

    I have put small color batches in the microwave on a paper plate to get a rough idea of the cured tint.
     
  7. tgun90

    tgun90 TS Member

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    six sand ,one cement , one lime recommended on historic restoration ,if your trying to match existing joints take into consideration how the joints were struck [tooled] originally as this can effect the color of the current restoration. another effect can be used to age the new work and involves an acid wash .Basically it;s a trial and error approach I have in past years past done a lot of historic masonry restorations and it is a tedious job to get the right formula ,as the original work was done with local materials at hand, and methods of the mason himself.Good Luck
     
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