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O/T John Deere 318 problems, need expert advice. .

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by Stack, Jul 6, 2009.

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  1. Stack

    Stack TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    1
    If the carb bowl is empty you may want to check the fuel pump which is vacuum operated as I recall. Pull fuel line to the carb and crank the engine to see if you are getting fuel pulses out of the fuel line. If you are getting no fuel then you likely have a bad diagphram in the fuel pump OR it's possible that you may have a cracked fuel line and the fuel line is sucking air. I don't remember the routing of the fuel line on the Onan but on the old opposed twin Briggs the fuel line was routed through the blower housing and the engine heat caused a number of fuel line cracks causing the fuel pump to suck air instead of fuel. Don't know for sure on the Onan but is a common problem on the Briggs.

    Yes you should be able to bypass the solenoid by jumping from the positive terminal on your battery to the starter terminal.
     
  2. Twixter

    Twixter Member

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    Mar 10, 2008
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    313
    Noknock:

    You have obviously given this baby to much TLC. It's just not used to that kind of treatment. Just kidding. Looks to be a beauty for its age.

    Mick
     
  3. 221

    221 Banned User Banned TS Supporters

    Joined:
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    4,736
    Ck fuel pump and strainer in the tank.......Those flatheads were notorious For sticking valves open when at operating temperature. It come's from varnish buildup on the valve stems and guides........They would run fine till hot then quit.....Let them cool awhile and they would run fine until it got hot again.
     
  4. oz

    oz Active Member

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    1,817
    my experience with these small engines is that when they sit for awhile (even a year) that the carb gets gunked up. take it apart and clean out the jets an all the fuel tubes. if you think it is the fuel pump try using a gravity feed just to see if it will run. oz
     
  5. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Green Bay Wisconsin
    You forgot to test the needle and seat.

    I have a 1969 Cub Cadet in perfect condition that had a carb problem. Took it apart 3 times, verified the needle was raising and lowering, and final took the entrance fitting off where the line hooks up.

    Lo and behold, there was a piece of fiber that had worked itself off a gasket sitting right in the corner of the elbow, blocking the fuel flow.

    So take off the carb, remove the float bowl, and blow in the fuel entrance while working the float. Your breath should be free, then obstructed indicating a working needle and seat.

    Once detected, a needle nose pliers made short work of removing the obstruction. runs perfect once more.

    HM
     
  6. birddog1964

    birddog1964 TS Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2009
    Messages:
    466
    hey guy,


    from your pix you have a lot trash in the carb and a lot of varnish on valves, witch was stated above. several to ck strainer in tank fuel lines fuel pump and also put a inline fuel filter on it in between the tank and the pump if there is room and after if there is not. to bypass you switch at your solenoid you should 3 wires going to the solenoid b+ the wire that goes to the starter and the trigger wire from the switch may be yellow, if you jump the trigger post with the b+ post big red wire it should make the starter turn. if not jump the b+ post and the wire going to the starter it should turn, if not you have a problem with the starter. as far as the seafoam I have udsed it but I like OMC or
    {Johnson outboard carbongard} it really eats the varnish and carbon, but I mix a half of a bottle to 6 gal of gas and just use up that gas and it will clean a lot of the varnish and power hogging carbon out of the engine and might stop some of your oil blow by as it will clean the carbon and varnish off the rings too. I use a bottle to 6 gal on outboards that has set up for a while it wont do any harm to your engine. so people might disagree with me, but I was a GM tech for 26yrs before I became disabled and not saying I'm always right ether.lol If you have any other questions you can call me 423-743-9233.

    thanks
    lee
     
  7. Gayles57

    Gayles57 Member

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2006
    Messages:
    111
    Here are a couple of addition pieces of information. John Deere makes a start improvement kit, part number AM107421 which takes care of the weak ignition switch problem, it cures the starter clicking problem. Its a relay that energizes the start solenoid directly from the battery rather than through the ignition key circuit.

    Is there a valve back on the gas tank that shuts off the fuel, my little 165 has one. Make sure its open if you have a valve.

    You might try to fill the carb through a short piece of gas hose and a funnel. Try to get it running and then check to see if the fuel pump will fill a pop bottle. Don't catch your self on fire.

    regards

    Gayle
     
  8. olddrum1

    olddrum1 TS Member

    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2009
    Messages:
    59
    Starter is pretty easy to take apart and clean. Seafoam a must around the farm here. Something else is to fish the fuel line out of the tank. On some of these mowers JD put a fabric filter over the filter on the end of the fuel line in the tank. This will degrade and the fuel will not get to the fuel line. Always good to have a parts manual.
     
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