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O/T Ford 250 Diesel 7.3 Cranking Problem?

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by PNT, Jun 22, 2007.

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  1. PNT

    PNT Member

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    Check this out>>

    I just had the similar problem. It was the door ajar circuit, caused the batterys to drain. One would drain more than the other, and there wasn't enough power to crank engine as fast as it should therefore a slow start.
     
  2. mike c

    mike c TS Member

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    We have several 7.3 fords, your problem is most likely the glow plugs are worn out or the relay that operates them is not working.
    Mike C
     
  3. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    Being able to monitor the PIDS over a data link can give you a ton of information, even when the "Light" is not set. There are also "pending" codes that will not turn on a light. The problem is that not too many DIY'ers know what the different parameters are and what they mean, even if they had a way to access them. A "Generic" scan tool is not the way to go on a Ford. The NGS Diagnostic tool is usually a good tool to start with, since it will access proprietary PIDS and access the other "Modules" and systems like air bags and lighting modules. They are rather expensive for the casual user.

    Your problem can be anything from low battery voltage or bad glow plugs, to needing an oil change. The system requires adequate oil pressure (injector control pressure) during start up. There are many things that can cause an issue with that, including the sensor that measures it or an oil supply issue. It can even be the fuel you are using. I've seen people use "Off Road" type fuels in this type of system and have all sorts of troubles.
     
  4. mobear

    mobear Member

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    Get you batteries checked before you do anything else.
     
  5. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    Could be a cam sensor problem. I had to key the switch several times to get it to start. The sensor failed. I guess it's a common failure. I lso had a fuel injector problem. Don't know the details of this because it was still under warranty.

    Check out this webite. It's sure to have ALL of your answers to your questions. I like it because I'll know what problems I'll probably run into, in the future. I've got 150K on mine and it's been running great since 99K.

    http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?Cat=0&C=2
     
  6. shannon391

    shannon391 Active Member

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    All good stuff, I have had to replaced cam sensor, relays, batteries in the past. My latest problem was the big heavy duty battery cables. Those big lead knuckles on the terminals are hard to spot the corrosion inside.I cut off the old ones and crimped on some new ones from Tractor supply and bingo! end of cranking and voltage problem.
     
  7. K-GUNS

    K-GUNS Member

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    When you turn the key on, look at your voltage guage and make sure it goes down a little then kicks back up when the start light goes out. The glow plugs take electrical current when on. On our truck the relay was bad and most times there was no drain when you turned on the key-volts stayed same. That was telling us the glow plugs were not getting any juice.If you turned the key on/off/on until you see the volt meter go down, then you knew they were working and when light went out it always started. Became a pain in the butt, had relay replaced and works like new.
     
  8. Lariat

    Lariat TS Member

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    My 7.3 needed glow plugs when I had this problem. I replaced them & it started like a new truck.
     
  9. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    the glow plugs are so easy to check with an ohmmeter...the bad ones will show open ckt...you can check it with a cheappy meter from Walmart..nothing fancy needed
     
  10. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    I guess the batteries on mine will be the next thing I'll have to replace. My F250 is a 2000 model and it still has the orignal batteries.
     
  11. BDodd

    BDodd TS Member

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    My 2001 needed batteries after 5 1/2 years - seems resonable to me. Actually it was one that was really sour but the advice was that the the other would be right behind it if only the one was replaced. Letting the dealer do the replacement garnered me a free LOF which pleased me to the tune of near $75 off....breakemall....Bob Dodd
     
  12. Texas Ton

    Texas Ton TS Member

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    They go out gradually, but unless there was a bad one right off the bat, all can be getting tired fairly close to each other. It's just like a short, enough heat cycle times and they will quit. On some engines, the combustion chamber isn't too kind on them either.
     
  13. Quack Shot

    Quack Shot Active Member

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    One might not be enough to cause a big problem in warm weather, but if enough of them go south, it's quite noticable. They do sometimes deteriorate as time goes on, so if two/three or so were marginal, it could show up as a hard starting concern. If one or two is bad after several years, it might pay to just replace them all so you don't have to play "Whack A Mole" with them one at a time forever.

    It usually pays to start with the basics. The batteries and cables are the first place to look. If one battery is weak, it could be enough to cause the problem. I would be sure that the charging system is working right also. You can have a charging problem without having any lamp or gauge indications. Have the output tested to be sure it is close to full spec. You can do a voltage drop test across each battery cable during a cranking test. It's better to do a little diagnosis than to dump a ton of money on guesswork. Sometimes yiou can get this done for free at one of those auto parts chains like Advance Auto. Just be careful since those guys don't always know what they are doing. They usually have a decent battery/charging system tester and will usually test it for you for free. (Tips are usually appreciated)

    Good Luck!
     
  14. GunDr

    GunDr Well-Known Member

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    I had to replace the alternator at 120k. The guage showed no problem, but the "idiot" battery light would flicker ever so lightly at a idle. Took it to NAPA and they tested it. It was only giving me 10 volts. Of course, the same day I replace the alternator, the water pump sprung a leak.
     
  15. jimbob

    jimbob TS Member

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    thats what you get for buying a ford...
     
  16. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    pretty much like light bulbs...and with each one you lose..the starting gets progressively more difficult..If your starter cranks good and strong ..these would be the first things I looked at
     
  17. X Trap 2

    X Trap 2 TS Member

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    You did not mention the year as newer 7.3s and turbos are harder to get to the glow plugs.

    Do not use starting fuel as it will burn the ends off the glow plugs. I used wd40 if needed on other vehicles.

    When I drove a wrecker with a 7.3 and just one glow plug went bad it was really hard to start. Not as forgiving as the 6.9s. I carried an extra one and a deep 7/16 socket, extension and ratchet for a quick change.

    I always kept good batteries in it and always but in a pair. Never replace just one battery. Check the cables for corrosion as mentioned above also.I also had the starter rebuilt once as it was gear reduction and I used it a lot.

    Also check the fuel bleed valve to assure it has no water in it. Ray
     
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