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NRA HP Rifle Competition

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by thorman75, Nov 25, 2007.

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  1. thorman75

    thorman75 TS Member

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    I'm thinking of giving NRA high powered rifle competition a try, anybody here that is involved? I read the info on the NRA web site, what I need is a mentor that could keep me away from the stupid/costly mistakes when getting started.
     
  2. cottondoctor

    cottondoctor Member

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    I shot HP for over 20 years - shot Service Rife and then Match Rifle. Find a local (where ever that is) shooter that is willing to work with you. Generally speaking HP Shooters (as with shooters in general)will help you anyway thay can - will share gun information and load information.......Get quality eq and gun the first time - in that game, the highest quality you can buy is always the most economical and not necessarily the cheapest.
     
  3. Steve-CT

    Steve-CT TS Member

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    With that said, if you're starting out, you don't need to shell thousands of dollars out. What matters is PRACTICE and establishing good shooting disciplines. Investing $10,000 in equipment isn't going to help you if you don't practice.

    If you're just starting out, buy an AR-15, IF you can get ammo for it - or even better, a CMP M-1 Garand. A base line model with a CMP legal match trigger will suffice and invest in AMMO and practice time.
    Learn to dope the wind; practice your offhand and sitting positions.

    Also, don't rule out some of the bargains you can get from CMP with M-1 Garands and relatively inexpensive Greek HXP mil surplus or Lake City ball.
    Even though the shooters with tricked out ARs are winning - the good old Garand is more than adequate to get you started. You don't need a $3,000 match gun to start. Any clunker with a T&E guaging of "3" or better will do for basic, 200 yard matches.

    When you're first starting, get used to shooting more and more, and CORRECTLY.
    That is what will make you the better shooter - not just shelling out money on the latest and fanciest equipment. As your skills progress and you become proficient at 200 yard shooting and then make the decision to get into the 600 yard stuff - then you might consider investing in the tricked out ARs (which don't even resemble "AR"s anymore)

    You need: a serviceable, reasonably accurate rifle, lots of ammo from the same lot number - a MAT; a spotting scope, preferably with a stand, a note book and a pencil.

    If shooting a Garand, I recommend the $10 investment in a "SLED" (single loading and ejection device) - which is a specially cut up former eight round en-bloc clip used for your single shot stages. It allows convenient, single loading of rounds and is important to avoid "slam fires". And pops out easily for use with eight round clips, or the specially modified, two and five round clips used for the rapid fire stages.


    The reason I am talking so much about the Garand right now, is that AMMO is a serious cost and availability factor for someone just starting out - especially if using a .223 (5.56 NATO) rifle, like the AR-15 derivatives.

    If you already have thousands of rounds of target grade .223 stocked up - you're fine - but if you're just starting out, I recommend joining CMP, buying a Garand and getting a good supply of surplus .30-06, which through CMP is available and CHEAPER than buying .223 ammo commercially. Sure, you can find a plethora of AR style rifles for about $1,000 +/- a few dollars, but when you go to buy ammo for it................. GOOD LUCK. Manufacturers have increased prices on .223 THIRTY FIVE percent since summer and plan another Fifteen percent Jan. 1. And oh by the way, that is IF you can FIND any. This is because there is only one plant making ammo for the US military and the war effort has more than exhausted existing supplies and production capacity.
    What USED to be $1.99 for 20 rounds of promotional, 55 grain ammo is now seven and eight dollars per box of 20 - IF you can find it!

    join CMP, get the Garand, buy a few thousands rounds of the Greek HXP which is damn good ammo; buy the SLED and get hooked up with a good club and their shooters. You'll be good for your first, two or three seasons with just that.
     
  4. Phil E

    Phil E TS Member

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    Good thinking, and I agree with the good advice above. First find a local club that has HP matches, attend one to just watch, and talk to the shooters about someone helping you with getting-started advice. It's a minimum-gear sport, so it'll be easy to get started. If you reload, consider that in your equation of what gun to buy. A nice Garand is no longer cheap, and a nice AR-15 is quite reasonable; their prices are quite close now. It's a relaxed & friendly sport. Phil E
     
  5. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    Some clubs will have DCM M1 match grade Garands that they will loan out to club members who are starting service rifle competition. These are a good way to start.

    If you are going to shoot an AR15, you need a DCM sanctioned rifle (ie meets the competition rules). Two of thebest rifles for this out of the box are the Bushmaster DCM-XR and the Rock River Arms NM A2/A4.

    [​IMG]
    Bushmaster DCM-XR

    [​IMG]
    Rock River Arms NM A2 and NM A4

    Both of these guns are at the top of the heap for out of the box DCM performance. The Bushmaster is the most popular.

    The Bushmaster has the option of 1 MOA or 1/2 MOA elevation controls. Only order the 1/4 MOA ($100 extra) if you will not be shooting past 600 yards. The 1/2 MOA goes out to 800 yards. I have found no pressing need for 1/4 MOA in DCM competition. Bushmaster calls the 1/4 MOA version the A3, and the 1/2 MOA version the A2. The carry handle on the Bushmaster DCM rifle is fixed.

    The RRA has the option of a fixed carry handle (A2) or a removable carry handle (A4). The A4 allows one to substitute optics for "free style matches", or for varminting (though I don't like the front sight tower in the way, and last I knew, a detachable front sight tower was not a sanctioned item for DCM competition). RRA also has 1/2 or 1/4 MOA options, but there is no extra charge for this. The RRA also has the option of green 'furniture' (stocks and grip). Apparently that is sanctioned now.

    Both guns have quality match grade stainless barrels. The Bushmaster lacks the flash hider, while the RRA has one. Personally, for this kind of competition, I'd prefer a match muzzle crown over a flash hider. But, there appears to be no real difference in accuracy. The Bushmaster comes with a 3.6 lb weight that fits in the buttstock, and it can be trimmed to balance the gun. You could order a weight for the RRA.

    I have not shot this model of the RRA. I have shot the Bushmaster DCM rifle. Both rifles are close in price. The RRA is $15 more than the 1/2 MOA Bushmaster, but is $85 less than the 1/4 MOA Bushmaster. Since both rifles perform the same, perhaps this ought to be a consideration for ordering. Myself, I'd probably go with the Bushmaster, simply because I've tried one already and know what to expect, and that more competition shooters are using the Bushmaster than the RRA for DCM competition. On the other hand, the RRA DCM rifle currently is on Holiday Sale, which is possibly 10% off (your dealer would need to check into this, but uppers are 10% off on this sale). If you're going to purchase in the very near future, that's a pretty strong incentive.

    Can you use a less expensive AR15 for competition? Sure. But, you'll eventually want to add features like a competition trigger and a free floating handguard (despite the stock military look, the A2 forends on both the Bushmaster and RRA DCM rifles are free floating). And if you're not using a heavy DCM match grade barrel, you'll probably want to upgrade that too. You mght in the long run end up spending more than just getting a DCM rifle out of the box.
     
  6. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    If you like wearing 2 sweat shirts and a leather shooting jacket on a sunny August day, then High Power is the game for you. If you like shooting a gun that fits, then stay away from service rifles. See if you can find someone who is giving up the game and buy all his stuff. HMB
     
  7. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    Just make sure if you buy a used DCM AR15 that the bore is good and the action isn't worn out. These guns cycle a lot of ammo.
     
  8. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    You can shoot rapid fire with a bolt gun faster than you can with an auto. Why you ask? Because you don't have to wait for the bolt gun to cycle. HMB
     
  9. thorman75

    thorman75 TS Member

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    I'm in the process of moving to Indianapolis right now to finish out my BS/Nursing degree at IUPUI. But I'm no kid as I'm over 50(retired 30 years steel mill) anyways as I'm prior Military(RA) I'm very familiar with the AR but while I was in I also shot the M21. I see no mention of the Springfield Armory M1A. Why is that?
    I'll continue to shoot trap as Indiana Gun Club will be minutes away, but I have a itch to try something new. And yes a leather coat an 2 sweatshirts no biggie, try the rifle range at Ft Hood in the middle of July or better yet the furnaces at Inland Steel getting ready to tap.
     
  10. Haskins Bill

    Haskins Bill TS Member

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    Nov 4, 2007
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    www.odcmp.com for CMP lots of info and liks to clubs that shoot HP. Also the NRA website.
     
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