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"new" AA hulls

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by capvan, Nov 26, 2008.

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  1. capvan

    capvan Active Member

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    I've been reading that the new AA hulls are different than the old ones. I've always been lead to believe that AA hulls were the gold standard for reloading and it's all I've ever used. Is there now a danger with the new hulls? Something about a 2-piece base wad? Should I be thinking about changing over to something else? Which will be hard to do, given the number of AA's I've got kicking around. Is there another hull I should be switching to that uses the exact same components I have been using?(1 oz load, CCI 209 primer, 16.8 grains Clays powder, Downrange XL-1 Wad) What's the true scoop?? Bruce
     
  2. capvan

    capvan Active Member

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  3. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

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    Bruce, Don't worry about the new hulls as long as you reload on a Mec reloader. This type of reloader pushes in the primer from the inside and will keep the wad base on the new Win. AA's in place just fine. Most of the high end reloaders push the primer in only holding the hull from the outside base. This can allow the wad base to push up and let powder get underneath the base and possibly push the base into the barrel when firing the shell. No worries with the Mec reloader. They load very well and in most cases last longer than the STS conterpart. If you have any of the old ones they work great in any reloader. If the AA has a square box around the AA's they are the old one piece style. Just make sure you have the proper wad for the newer ones, and have adjusted the pre-crimp and final crimp for the new hulls. Once adjusted the machine will load both the Win. AA and the STS with no problem. Don't use the Claybuster clone wads on the new AA's. Good Luck and Break-em all. Jeff
     
  4. cwbanker

    cwbanker Member

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    Jeff, I have used the Claybuster clones (both the 1100 & 1118) with no problems at all in both the red & gray AA hulls. Is there a reason you suggest not using them? Alliant Powder lists both these wads in their reloading data sheets online.

    Joel - Yuma, AZ
     
  5. JerryP

    JerryP Active Member

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    cwbanker , so have I. Some think these wads get stuck on the top edge of the basewad.
     
  6. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

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    Joel, I have used them for only a hundred loads. They go in very dry and want to buckle so to speak as they go past the basewad at the bottom. I also had a hard time getting the hole out of the center. Others on here have said they had the same problem. This was years ago, before I found out about lowering the pre-crimp and raising the final crimp which I have not done yet, because I have plenty of old style AA's and STS's to load. These hulls work fine with the claybuster wads. I have also HEARD that the Rem. wads work better in the AA's in both the 12ga. and the 20 ga. which has the same style 2 piece base wad type hull. They are slightly shorter in overall lenth. A tapered bottom powder cup seams to work better so I have HEARD. Good Luck and Break-em all. Jeff Happy Turkey Day to all.
     
  7. ou.3200

    ou.3200 Well-Known Member

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    Using a MEC or Hornady reloader that pushes the primer the inside is no guarantee the base wad will not move. I use a Hornady 366 and a MEC 650 both of which push the primer in by putting pressure on the inside base of the hull. I have found after firing reloads in the "new" WW hulls basewads that moved up leaving a space between the brass and basewad. I switched to Remington hulls and have stopped using the new AA hull.
     
  8. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    I suggest that you take a new AA hull apart and see if you can find a base wad that can find its way into your barrel. I think not. HMB
     
  9. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    HMB- I have done what you suggested. After cutting many AA hulls open and trying to get the base wad lose with several methods, I found only one that would work. If I use a 5/8 inch drill, and remove the center of the base wad down to the brass head, I can then cut the remaining rim of the base wad with a very sharp chisel and then pull the base wad out with pliers. It is not easy, but it can be done.

    The wrinkle just above the base wad that some get when loading the shells has nothing to do with the shot wad catching on the base wad. It is due to a reloading machine that is not adjusted for the shell. One turn up on the crimp starter and one turn up on the final crimp station gets rid of this problem.

    Winchester did make a change in how the base wad is connected to the rest of the hull about 8 months after the new AA hulls were introduced. This change was not publicized because doing so would be an admission of an earlier problem.

    Pat Ireland
     
  10. capvan

    capvan Active Member

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    Well, thanks for all the info. Gets confusing, but that's part of this forum :)

    I think I'll just keep doing what I'm doing. I've got a lot of AA's with a lot of life in them. Just wish shot wasn't so danged expensive! Paid $40 for a bag yesterday and $40 for 1,000 CCI primers. The Winchester primers were $50.
    Bruce
     
  11. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    Bruce,

    You are buying your components in the wrong place. Try to get hooked up with a club that orders in bulk and you will save a lot of money. HMB
     
  12. capvan

    capvan Active Member

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    That's great advice and I wish I could do just that. I am located in Windsor, VT and that sort of opportunity at a club just doesn't exist. Or at least not that I'm aware of. If I'm missing something, please let me know and thanks!
    Bruce
     
  13. capvan

    capvan Active Member

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  14. shot410ga

    shot410ga Well-Known Member

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    capvan: I've been relaoding AA's for 30+ years. Every type they ever made. 100,000's of them. I have seldom had a problem.
     
  15. capvan

    capvan Active Member

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  16. philk

    philk Member

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    Pat, anyway to easily tell the old new AA`s from the new new AA`s. Any difference in the labels or markings ???
     
  17. dverna

    dverna Active Member

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    Pull and Mark,
    My experience mirrors yours and I believe you gave good advice.

    Pat,
    I have two shells that have the base wad pushed up. Loaded on a PW 800+. It can happen - or at least it has happened to me. I have not loaded that many AA's - maybe 20,000. Granted these "defective" hulls had been loaded about 10 times. Many shooters let hulls fly after 3-4 loadings. It could be the "problem" occurs after many stress cycles.

    I still reload the AA's. I have 10,000 once fired to go through so they will last a while. I peer down the barrel(s) before each shot so, if a base wad comes loose and lodges, I will see it (has not happened yet).

    I load STS's and Gun Clubs for my girlfriend just to be safe. She checks the bore too; but if she had a brain fart and a missed seeing a base wad I would never forgive myself. I am probably being anal about it.

    A good friend saw a Beretta come apart and the guy was shooting AA's. They were convinced it was due to base wad - who can be sure - but why take the chance.

    When I saw the first base wad pushed up in the 800+ I decided it could be possible.

    Don
     
  18. capvan

    capvan Active Member

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  19. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    Don- I have three AA hulls with lose basewads. These hulls were made prior to the change Winchester made that crimps the basewad into the hull. These hulls were sent to me by others and they were reloaded well beyond what I consider the useful life of the hulls.

    Pat Ireland
     
  20. capvan

    capvan Active Member

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