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Need help with Browning please

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by C H S, Jun 28, 2007.

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  1. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    I have a Browning over under I bought new 2 years ago. Yesterday during practice the little pin in the piece that ejects the empty shell broke off. This is the second time this has happened since Ive owned the gun. What I would like to do is change the ejector so that it just lifts the empty out of the chamber instead of kicking it out. Is there something I can change or something I can remove so that I can make the change I want?

    Andy
     
  2. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    Trying again ^
     
  3. mecman

    mecman TS Member

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    need more info on the gun, model etc.
     
  4. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    My gun is a 2 year old Browning XT Trap over under standard grade.

    Which ones are the ejector trip rods and how do I get to them?

    I also remember reading something about changing springs. Do you have any more details?

    I wear gloves to shoot all year round so I don't want to completely stop the lifters from moving or I won't be able to get a grip on the shell with my gloves on.

    Andy
     
  5. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    trying again!

    Andy
     
  6. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    Andy if indeed you are breaking the ejector trip rod, you probably got a binding ejector hammer assembly. The trip rods come out of left and right side of reciever. Did you break the same side again or both? Are parts breaking in for arm? If you can post pics it may make it easier. No about changing over to exstractor instead of injector ill post some pics and a brief desription of what i did.
     
  7. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a> this is the forend with ejector hammer and the spring/rod that pushes them
     
  8. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a>
    this is where the trip rods trigger the release of ejector hammer
    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a>
    you need to remove assembly from for end then remove hammer rod and spring, they are a bit tough and can go FLING so be carefull
    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a> Once removed its time to find a spring with the proper tension. I brought my original to ACE hardware and bought several that where close in demensions, My final spring had a 6 pound max rating? I do not know what that means but it worked. I did have to try several befor finding the one that just lifts the Empty shell, Do one side until you find the one that works. you may have to cut to length. Also when you do find the spring that works buy several for they do not last very long about 2500 shells. Also get stainless some cheapy springs will rust up no matter what you do.
     
  9. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    PS make sure you put all screws and parts back in the SAME location. If its not smooth when putting back do not force it.
     
  10. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    OHHYEAH SAVE all the old parts
     
  11. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    "Andy if indeed you are breaking the ejector trip rod, you probably got a binding ejector hammer assembly."

    Mac, it's not the trip rods that break, it's the little pin that screws into the side of the ejector itself. The original one just fell out, unscrewed itself I guess. The one that broke yesterday actually sheared off down in the threads that hold it into the ejector. This one was also a factory ejector that a gunsmith put in to replace the first one. I got some pins from a smith at the southern grand and replaced both my broken pins with these. I just got done putting one of my repaired ejectors back in the gun.

    There is nothing binding in my gun. The empty hulls will fall out if I turn the barrel up after I fire a shot. The ejectors slide real easy and they will heave a hull 15 feet.

    I really appreciate the pictures. I'm going to try to make that change.

    One last question. There are two philips screws that hold the metal into the fore stock. I know that one of them goes into the latch plate on the outside of the wood. Is the other one screwed into wood or is there some kind of metal anchor that it threads into?

    Thanks again, Andy
     
  12. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a> If this is the pin/screw you are refering to. It needs to be staked on reverse side as to keep it from coming loose. I have not had issues with my XT but my ejector assembly retaining screw does come loose from time to time. small screw to left which screw into barrel. If pin does come loose at all im sure it will break sooner or later. On reverse side there should be a noticable punch mark denting the last threads a bit to keep tight. I could not get a clear pic of this. It also could be a poor run of parts, and they are just not strong enough? Only other thought is not enough relief and is being hit hard when ejecting, I am not a gun smith but there are none in my area that i have faith in. the closest authorized browning repair is 5 hours north or south. I would call browning yourself and ask them if they know of any problems. As far as the screw question Yes they are a machined fit on each, CAREFULL they are same thread but different size do not mix up. You will no if you do forarm latch will not fit right. If forced you will bend break ruin parts.

    Ejector retaining pin/screw B1334114 pin on ejector itself
    Ejector retaining screw B1334110 screw that holds ejector to barrel
     
  13. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    Mac,

    Yes the pin you have the arrow at is the one that I am referring to. I called Laurance Pylinski at Pylinski Arms in Richmond and he replied that problems with this pin are not "atypical of Brownings". He also suggested staking the pin but I'm a bit nervous of doing that because it could make it harder getting a broken piece out when the pin breaks again. And I was told that you can't just buy ejectors from Brownells and have them fit, they need to be machined. So I'm trying to preserve the 2 I have as long as I can. But I will try staking the pin.

    Thanks a lot for your help.

    Andy
     
  14. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    If you are indeed that worried, you should be. if not suported very well you could bend or even break it. Maybe a local machine shop could help or trade school. I had our local vo tech machine shop Fix some parts on a older savage.
    I have not had to replace ejectors but did do a lifter lever requiring fitting. Some very fine diamond files did the job for the final fit. Also try a tad of clear fingernail polish on threads. This is what My dad did when parts where coming loose. A little hair dryer or heatgun and it would break free if needed. When all else fails go to Authorized Browning Gun smith would imagine this should be a warrenty fix? My XT had a bit of a trigger problem allthough it took 9 weeks browning fixed for free and also replaced a few other springs/parts of safty selector. no charge. My XT is 7 years old ! I am not the original owner. http://www.browning.com/services/arcs/index.asp this will tell you where the closest authorized repair is to you. Browning can be very tricky about warrenty work, they usually will decline warrenty if non authorized repairs are done. If you have a good selection of smiths in youtr area its a plus. nearest authorized dealer to me is in southport CT. There was one in NH but did not see his name on list anymore?
     
  15. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    One more question, maclellan...

    Where did you find the stainless steel springs you said to use in the ejectors. I went to an Ace store and they had lots of springs but all of them where just spring steel.

    Are there specific business where I could expect to find stainless steel springs in 6 pounds per inch ratings like you used?

    Andy
     
  16. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    I looked EVERY WHERE!!!!!! I was useing plain springs for a while. I stopped in a ACE hardware at random to check to see what they had. Inventory is very different from store to store. I always go into hardewhare stores in my travels. homdepot and lowes really destroyed the good ones around my home. The springs i found where not in their standard hardwhare bins but in small pacs.. Prime line spring co I believe or primespring. When it comes to gun parts you just gotta look.
     
  17. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    After looking through my boxOparts I found some other springs Jonessprings. These are the stainless im useing now had to cut to length. The others are nickle plated. A web search on springs will get you some ideas.
     
  18. C H S

    C H S TS Member

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    Mac,

    Thanks again, I made the modification this evening. I have the ejectors sprung so they pop the empty hull up about an inch before it drops back into the chamber. That puts enough spring pressure on the ejector that I don't push it back down easily when I grab the hull with my glove on and gives me enough pressure to lift sticky hulls out of the hole. The ejector pin should last just about forever now!

    Andy
     
  19. maclellan1911

    maclellan1911 TS Member

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    Cool, Ive got mine to the point where it just lifts it, almost delayed a bit. Ive had many say to me, You should have that looked at Citori's are supose to eject. I just prefer exstract over eject. Got factory adjustable comb on that, heres a cheap fix for crappy hardware until you save enough for Ken at speedbumbstockworks to put his new system on.<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank">[​IMG]</a>
     
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