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Need Electrical Help...16VAC to 12VDC???

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by vpr80, Jan 4, 2012.

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  1. vpr80

    vpr80 Active Member

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    I know some of you guys must have electrical knowledge so I need a little help.

    I need to hook up a chime to my house alarm system, but can't find one that works. The alarm gives off a 16VAC current when the zone is open, but I can't find any continual(!) chimes. Seems door bell chimes are 16VAC, but they only ring once, I need non-stop.

    In any case, I have some 12VDC chimes and also an LED light that I want to use so I need a little help on how to convert 16VAC to 12VDC???

    Thanks
     
  2. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

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    Is this part of the notification of break in, or a reminder that the system is active/tripped or the like??

    If part of the alarm, you want the LOUDEST one you can find - a chime seems too minimal.

    I checked McMaster Carr, and they have some units (see above). You could try Graingers, MSC, etc. Radio Shack might have alarm components as well.

    Vis-a-vis the voltage. You MIGHT get away using a 12V chime on a 16V system. LED should be fine.

    In either case try it - many electronics components actually have a working voltage range, not a specific voltage. If it starts to heat up or you smell 'hot' electronics you need to go back to square one, but it might be worth the try to see...
     
  3. vpr80

    vpr80 Active Member

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    This is just an alert for when the garage door is open so it does not need to be loud. I actually already have the chime and LED that I like.

    I just need to convert AC to DC somehow. Both will work on a range of approx 8V to 16V so that's not the problem. I just can't seem to figure out how to convert the alarm's AC power to DC???
     
  4. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

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    Oh, You will need to build a bridge diode.

    A few cents for the parts and about five minutes work.

    See the attached videos

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyhzpFqXwdA

    http://www.instructables.com/id/AC-to-DC-converterdiode-bridge/?ALLSTEPS
     
  5. pyrdek

    pyrdek Well-Known Member

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    Probably the simplest way is to use a solid state rectifier (diode) and a capacitor. If the current draw is not to heavy, that should give you the DC you want. A Full wave rectifier would give you a "smoother" DC current.

    Just make sure that you get a diode and NOT a SCR. The SCR (silicon controlled rectifier) is a three lead device used in dimmers, motor controls etc.

    Here is a link to give you the general idea.
    Click Here

    The capacitor, although not shown on the simple diagram, is installed between the positive and negative side of the DC output and serves to smooth out the DC. You would need an electrolytic capacitor with suitable voltage rating (suggest at least 25% above the measured NO-Load DC voltage) and sufficent rating (in portions of a Farad) to "store" the current for when the diode "shuts off" the power coming from the AC line. This might be 100 micro farad or larger or smaller size depending on the current draw of your chime. . Both the capacitor and the diode are polarity sensitive so be sure to observe the correct installation positive and minus side.
     
  6. vpr80

    vpr80 Active Member

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    Ummm yeah this is definitely beyond the scope of my limited abilities. I was hoping to find this exact thing, just pre-built in a nice contained and sealed package with wire leads that I can just connect. Any ideas on finding something like that?
     
  7. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

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    vpr80,

    Watch the first video - near the end the show a pre-made bridge rectifier.

    Not sure if you can buy one at Radio Shack, but you can find them.

    http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=bridge+rectifier+diode#q=bridge+rectifier+diode&hl=en&prmd=imvns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=jHAET-fEKYPf0QHgt5G6Ag&ved=0CIsBEK0E&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=c18ce21ab6dbde0c&biw=1182&bih=735
     
  8. pyrdek

    pyrdek Well-Known Member

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    Another possibility is to purchase a Sona-Lert. It is not a chime but they come in various audio outputs. Some are continous others are pulsed.

    Here is a link to more info about Sonalerts. They would just take the power directly from the wires connected to the Sonalert terminals and give you audible output.

    They come in a number of different models. Some are powered by AC, Some by DC and some by either AC or DC. Just take a look at the "Sounds" page and find the one with the sound you want and the voltage range you need.

    Get a lot more info here.
     
  9. vpr80

    vpr80 Active Member

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    HSLDS, the power supply in that video is the usual kind, but all the ones that I've found take 110VAC as the input. I need a similar device, but for low voltage.

    pyrdek, the Sona-lerts are big $$$ and also all the ones that sound decent like Chime are DC. Also their low voltage AC ones just start at 16V and go up so I am not 100% sure they will even work.
     
  10. likemybrownings

    likemybrownings Active Member

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    Go to radio shack and buy a full wave bridge rectifier, 4 bucks or so
    DaveB
     
  11. vpr80

    vpr80 Active Member

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    Ehhhh what am I supposed to do with this thing??? (See URL)
     
  12. wireguy

    wireguy TS Member

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    What you need is to have some local high school kid who is into electronics put together, as has been noted, a full wave rectifier in line with a 7812 TO3 voltage regulator. The max input on the 7812 is 19 volts and the TO3 type can deliver up to 1 amp as seen here:

    http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/150/44435_DS.pdf

    That should run any electronic type alarm (I would think)
     
  13. vpr80

    vpr80 Active Member

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    Ok seems that I will need to make this myself. I've been looking at the diagrams and there are only 3 main parts: rectifier, capacity and regulator. The diagrams seem pretty simple to wire and put together so I should be able to assemble the parts.

    However, all the little parts comes with very different specs that are hard to figure out. Also where can I order all the parts? Do I need some sort of small board to mount these on or can they all be wired together?

    Basically, if someone can help me out by telling me the exact parts to get (what AND where), I can handle the assembly part.

    Thank you!
     
  14. wireguy

    wireguy TS Member

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    Run your 16 volts ac to the two unmarked terminals, the two marked + and - become your DC output. Put a polarized capacitor across the DC line. Run the 16 volt DC into your 7812 voltage regulator and the output from that will be 12 volt DC.
     
  15. wireguy

    wireguy TS Member

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    See if you can find a local electronics supplier (not radio shack) They may be able to spec the parts for you.
     
  16. vpr80

    vpr80 Active Member

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    Ok that definately seems simple enough. I will try to find some electronics store, but I am aware of any around. In fact, the Radio Shacks around me also don't really carry these little parts anymore. I remember a while ago they had everything, but now it's mainly cell phones.
     
  17. vpr80

    vpr80 Active Member

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    Ahhh finally found an assembled kit!!! This looks to be exactly what I needed!!
     
  18. vpr80

    vpr80 Active Member

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    Alright found a complete assembled one...before I click "ORDER", this is what I need right? Looks to be right, cheap and easy.
     
  19. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    Just go buy the Mallory Sonalert. They are made to go on all kinds of alarm systems, and they come in AC or DC versions. they also have the unique ability to oprate across a wide range of voltages.

    I used to use them for the pre warning on entry if the system was armed.

    If you are a hobbyist, building a rectifier is simple- 4 diodes, but then what? I once built a circuit to fire a cop gumball from the telephone ring, but that's another story.

    Get the Sonalert. Mash the link

    HM
     
  20. HSLDS

    HSLDS Well-Known Member

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    looks like either on should work, the second one is a more compact unit, but has a lower amperage output.

    I think the choice is yours...
     
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