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NEED 1100 ADVICE!

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by mflora, Nov 24, 2012.

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  1. mflora

    mflora Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Austin, Texas
    Having owned and shoot lots of 1100s over the years, thought I was an expert. Not so. I CAN NOT get the stock nut off of a 70s 1100 I am restoring for my wife. I have tried everything. I twisted a new Craftsman large stubby screw driver using a large pipe wrench. We used to use tire irons but I am afraid I will tear the spring tube from the receiver, Any advice would be appreciated.
    Mark
     
  2. Jim R

    Jim R Ljutic Nut TS Supporters

    Joined:
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    1,660
    Location:
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    Get some Kroil penetrating oil and get it into the hole in the slot of that nut. Let it set over night and give her a try.

    I use those sockets with the screw driver blade in them that you get at Harbor Freight.

    If that does not work, put it back together and sell it to someone you don't like.

    Jim R
     
  3. hmb

    hmb Well-Known Member

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    Try using some heat on that threaded cap. HMB
     
  4. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    Some can be very, very difficult to remove. I bought a special tool specifically for the stock nut. It looks like a socket, but has a screwdriver blade inside it. This prevents the blade from slipping off the slot. That's the biggest drawback to using a tire iron. If you slip while applying a lot of pressure, and the blade gets between the nut and wood while twisting, you can split the stock. You can temporarily wrap enough duct tape around the shaft by the blade to help center the blade in the wood bore.

    For stubborn nuts, the receiver often has to be clamped in a vise. This can damage finishes or even wreck the receiver if you are not careful. If you have field stripped the gun, at least put the trigger group back in to prevent the receiver walls from being pinched in. I prefer to use an aluminum block, but have misplaced it and will have to make another. Anyway, put wood or other sturdy material between the vise face and the receiver, and make sure the extend at least to the edges of the receiver or beyond, never less. Then slip cardboard between the blocks and receiver for more protection. Tighten enough to securely hold the receiver, but do not crush it.

    If you still cannot get it loose, or are worried you are going to break something, take it to a gunsmith.
     
  5. Papineau

    Papineau TS Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2012
    Messages:
    23
    With stock toward the floor saturate the spring tube with CRC Knock'er Loose penetrating oil, don't drown it but enough to make it's way down to the stock nut. Let set for a while. Then with the receiver properly supported, a steel drift and a hammer give the nut one crisp rap of the hammer. Might have to repeat from the beginning with more Knock'er Loose and another rap of the hammer.
     
  6. Setterman

    Setterman Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    11,409
    Put a big screw driver on it and tap it multiple times with a hammer. Not hard, but make contact. The screw threads are rusted. Use a big screw driver with tight contact to turn it out or you'll f-up the bolt.

    Probably too late for that?

    You can also use a reverse turn out if the slot face is stripped on the bolt, but you'll have to buy 2 or 3 to get the right one. Try a local machine shop if all else fails.
     
  7. motordoctor

    motordoctor Shoji Tabuchi in Branson

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    i made a tool many years ago. got a piece of pipe that fits into the hole in the stock. thinwall tuff. took a piece of metal and cut a slot in the pipe and fit the metal into the slit and it was about 1/2 inch up the pipe. welded the cross piece in and shaped it to fit. The cross piece was the screwdriver slot and the pipe kept it in place. works every time. motordoc. drop a line if you want a picture
     
  8. Indydrew1

    Indydrew1 Member

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    My advice is to just stop and "get thee to a gunsmith". It will be cheaper in the long run - I have been where you are and what would have cost me $10 at my gunsmith to do correctly the first time cost me $65 to get repaired after I tried just "one more thing"...

    My $.02,

    Drew
     
  9. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    Drew probably has the best idea.
     
  10. la angler

    la angler Banned User Banned

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2012
    Messages:
    145
    Got mine off with a 1/2" wood drill bit,one of the flat one's.Then i found a rachet socket that was the same size as the wood bit shaft.It came loose and was very tight before.Good luck.
     
  11. mag410

    mag410 Active Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    <span id="ctl00_tcContent_lblDescription">Here is my solution.
    11/16" socket and a piece of old file ground to fit.<br>
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    File is hard and won't bend.</span>


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  12. ysr_racer

    ysr_racer Active Member

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    Loctite Freeze & Release Penetrating Oil instantly freezes seized and rusted bolts, nuts and studs down to -45
     
  13. mflora

    mflora Member

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    Location:
    Austin, Texas
    Thanks for all of the responses. Ken Rucker called me and told me to just bring it in w/ the stock still on and he could get it off. Music to my ears. He is putting a Jack West Bump Buster set on the gun. As usual, great forum.
    Mark
     
  14. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    Bidda boom!
     
  15. 870compman

    870compman TS Member

    Joined:
    May 10, 2010
    Messages:
    43
    I think I have an extra nut if you ruined yours. I can send you a couple of pictures to make sure it is the same.

    Sincerely,

    Dale Wolff
     
  16. cubancigar2000

    cubancigar2000 Well-Known Member

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    The srew driver and hammer will work every time. Just tap it smartley and turn at the same time, the rust will break free. I have watched a gunsmith do it many times
     
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