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More reloading questions

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by Seth Bagwell, Dec 28, 2009.

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  1. Seth Bagwell

    Seth Bagwell TS Member

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    Got my reloader, Mec 600 jr, not the mark 5. It looks pretty old but seems to work fine. Bought some supplies today. Here's what I'm loading:
    7/8 oz #8
    win AA hulls
    16.5 gr Red Dot
    win 209 primers
    CB1100-12 wads (WAA12SL clone)

    loaded about 10 shells before I got the crimp adjusted right, then loaded a box to shoot. Seems like a good load, light recoil.

    Here's my questions, guys:
    I'm using an rcbs 505 scale. Don't have any calibration weights. Any quick and easy way to check it? Count out enough #8 pellets to weigh a known weight?

    A #28 bushing is supposed to throw 16.4 grains, but according to my scale it's only throwing 15.9gr. Should I worry about this?

    What's the deal with the wad pressure indicator? How should it be adjusted? How do I know if the wad is going in all the way or not?
     
  2. RobertT

    RobertT Well-Known Member

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    Without having something of a known weight to cross check your lost. Perhaps check weight vs. a friends scale. It's highly unlikely the scale is off to any significant degree. As for the weight vs. volume measurement, it will vary according to the composition of the lead. Generally hard lead is lighter due to the tin and antimony mixed into the lead. Trust your scale for powder weight as it will vary slightly from one lot to another and according to the moisture content. Set your wad pressure so the scale barely moves, modern wads don't require any pressure, just need to be seated firmly. Good luck with your new hobby.

    Robert
     
  3. goatskin

    goatskin TS Member

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    A NEW dime weighs: 34.3/4gn, nickle 76.1/2gn, quarter 86.9/87.0gn.


    Bob
     
  4. timb99

    timb99 Well-Known Member

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    <i>Don't have any calibration weights. Any quick and easy way to check it?</i>

    If you reload rifle or handgun cartridges, get a bullet of known weight. They're usually within a tenth of a grain.

    <i>What's the deal with the wad pressure indicator? How should it be adjusted?</i>

    Adjust it so it just barely registers at the bottom of the down stroke. With modern powders and wads, you don't need any wad pressure. Just seated over the powder.
     
  5. short shucker

    short shucker TS Member

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    Seth,

    Sounds as if everthing is about right as far as bushing actual throw weight vs advertised throw weight.

    If you really want to get depressed, weigh your shot charge.

    Wad pressure indicator. Just adjust it to where you get about 20-30 lbs and everything will be just fine. Modern day wads don't really require much seating pressure.

    ss
     
  6. Jawhawker

    Jawhawker TS Member

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    Find someone at the gun club with an electronic scale. They will have check weights and thus ask to borrow one. You can also buy a set of check weights from a reloading store.
     
  7. wolfram

    wolfram Well-Known Member

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    Looks like you are off to a good start Seth and paying attention to the details that matter. I'll bet your scale is pretty close but by all means verify that with a check weight. It is very common for bushings to deliver charges that weigh differently than the bushing charts suggest, that is why we were all harping on you to get a scale and use it.

    Your component selection is a good start, the load you are making is pretty lite, no doubt you will want to move up. The wads and powder you have will also make good 1 Oz loads. Follow the powder manufacture's data and have fun!
     
  8. Bob_K

    Bob_K Well-Known Member

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    You can get a copy of the owners manual for a pre 1985 600JR from MEC at the URL above.
     
  9. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    Jan 29, 1998
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    I weighed several small nuts (the kind that go on a bolt, not the kind we eat or shoot with) with a tag fastened to them. I wrote the weight of the nuts on the tag and gave them to a friend.

    If my check weights and/or scale are wrong, then so is his.

    Pat Ireland
     
  10. birddog1964

    birddog1964 TS Member

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    This is the specks for your ramer tube in all MEC loaders and the different ga, 12ga 5th line showing, 16ga, 20ga and 28ga 3 lines showing and the 410ga 2 lines showing.

    thanks
    lee
    [​IMG]
     
  11. AveragEd

    AveragEd Well-Known Member

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    Lee, how can that hold true for all hulls, powders, powder charges, shot charges and wads for a given gauge? Every recipe will have its own ideal wad seating depth. What you posted might be a good starting point but that's about it.

    Ed
     
  12. Seth Bagwell

    Seth Bagwell TS Member

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    Nov 30, 2009
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    Ok guys here's what I did:

    I don't reload metallic shells, so i took apart some .22s. They were within .1 of what the box said. So I guess the scale is close.

    I weighed the shot drop and it's 18 pellets short of 7/8 oz. Is this a big deal?

    I changed to a #30 bushing and it's dropping 17.3 grains. This is between two loads in the alliant book. Any problems with this?

    My crimps aren't consistant. Some will be open, some will have swirls. I've tried adjusting like the book says, but still not consistant. I'm updating the crimp starter b/c the old one is cracked. Any other ideas?
     
  13. Pull & Mark

    Pull & Mark Well-Known Member

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    Seth, Sounds like your scale is good, but try to get it varified with someelse's scale like talked about above. I'm writing down the one's above with the coins to check up with. Yes 17.3 gr.s of red dot sound good and If you like you can simply remove the charge bar and ream out the shot hole w/ a dremel or round file to open to add those 18 pellets to your short. I had to do this to all of my Mec charge bars w/ todays hard antimony lead. As I might have mentioned before you can take some nail polish and give a light coat all around the powder bushing to bring it down around 3/10's of a grain which is about 1/2 of the difference between Mec's powder bushings to fine tune your powder drops. As said above when you get new powder kegs make sure you recheck your New powder drops, and collected Humidity in your powder will change drops in your powder if you leave your powder keg outside in garage or in basement. This could be a problem where I live so I keep in home in A/C. Get your new pre-crimp and then fine tune your final crimp and once adj. all will be fine. Now you know why alot of reloaders like to pick just one type of hull to reload to keep down all the adjusting. Sounds like you will make a great reloader so enjoy your new light loads and have fun trying some new one's from time to time to find that 100 strait. Good Luck and Break-em all. Jeff
     
  14. KENENT1

    KENENT1 Active Member

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    18 pellets short!!!!!! my god man...your handicapping yourself...lol, sounds like you have a handle on what your doing....shoot well.



    tony
     
  15. Seth Bagwell

    Seth Bagwell TS Member

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    I loaded 150 shells earlier tonight. Some of the Winchester hulls crimp better than others. I've got some green ones that do great, some red ones do good too. But some will bulge out right at the crimp end of the hull. What's the deal with this? Are all Hulls marked AA the same even though they are different color? I was told they are all the same.
     
  16. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    The empty red and dark gray AA hulls are identical. But when I load them with the same loads, I never mix red and gray hulls in the same box. I wish someone could explain to me why I segregate the colors in different boxes. And why, when I move to the next post I always begin with the shell in the row of the box that corresponds with the post number. Example-- On post 4 I will always begin with the fourth shell in the row of shells in the box.

    Pat Ireland
     
  17. Seth Bagwell

    Seth Bagwell TS Member

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    Pat, for whatever reason I sorted all the green hulls from reds and didn't mix them in the same box...

    For what I'm doing I'm not going to worry about the 18 pellets if it's not a safety issue. But, I am glad to know I can file the bar out if I want.

    Of the shells that bulged on the final crimp, I noticed that they all had a faint ring or indentation below the folds before the crimp. Also, most of them were marked #9 light. So I just started throwing them away.

    Now: why don't the books show a load for Remington hulls using my components?
    I've seen some folks say they use the same load in AA hulls and Remington hulls, but the books show using Remington primers with my other components in rem hulls. The rem hulls look almost identical to the AA hulls. I have about 1000 once fired rem hulls that I'd like to use, but I really don't want to buy more stuff if I don't have to.
     
  18. KENENT1

    KENENT1 Active Member

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    Pat....I too do not box gold nitro's and green sts's....they are loaded the same for handicap, but I can not shoot a mixed box.....I shoot better scores if the boxes are all green or all gold....actually I think the gold hulls produce better scores. :)

    I haven't tried starting with the shell in the row of what post I'm on???....I think maybe I'll give that a try this Saturday..



    tony
     
  19. front242

    front242 Member

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    Seth,

    When I started on my grandfathers 600jr., I got some weird crimps as well. I quickly found that on the swirled or messed up ones, I was holding the hull in the crimp starter station. You need to make sure the hull can spin in that station so the crimp starter can spin the hull to align the folds. (Thus the name "spindex" crimp starter.) It doesn't spin much but if you watch, the hull rotates a little to align the notches with the folds of the hull. As soon as I quit holding the hull in that station, the weird crimp issues went away for the most part. You need to insert the hull in that station and drop your hand away. I still get a weird one now and then on hulls that have been reloaded many times and are a little on the soft side. On these, the hull mouth is softened up enough to not be grabbed and spun properly by the crimp starter. You might take a look to see if this could be your problem.

    Tim
    F²4²
     
  20. bjc682

    bjc682 Member

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    Seth,

    I too started reloading this year with a MEC 600 JR. I use Rem. hulls (black or green), 16.5 grains Red Dot (#29 bushing), 7/8oz #8 shot, Cheddite 209 primer and a WAA12L (gray) wad.

    A couple of things, temperature and humidity will effect your powder drop also how hard you pull your loader handle thru the cycle's could change it. I de-prime my shells before I start reloading and try to stay as consistant with my pulls as I can.

    I tried the WAA12SL (pink I believe) wads and could never get a good consistant crimp in the Rem. hulls. You will have to try some thing that are published that will work for you. Always follow the tables!!!!

    I called Ben at Alliant Powders and asked about Cheddite primers to be substituted for Rem. or Win. 209 primers in these lighter loads and he said it would be ok. Most tables don't show Cheddite primers. They are cheaper and work just as well. Also the next time you buy powder consider Promo. It is like Red Dot but cheaper. You may use 1-2 smaller bushing sizes. It is a denser powder. ALWAYS!!!!! weigh your powder drops and average the first 10 shells, then make adjustments if needed. It looks like you are doing this already.

    Good luck and safe reloading.

    Your friend in shooting, Bart
     
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