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Modifying Powder Drop in MEC Bushings

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by rdf59, Nov 23, 2011.

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  1. rdf59

    rdf59 Member

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    I need to modify a MEC #12A Bushing because the 12 and 13 don't come close to the drop I want in a 28 ga Sporting Clays load.

    My thinking is to use a jewelers file to file out a bit of the interior of my #12A bushing to get up to the exact load that I want.

    I know that the Universal Powder bar is the obvious answer, but I own 5 of them and they work great in the 12 and 20 ga presses. However, in the small gauge presses, the location of the adjustable holes are positioned to the extreme right of the powder bottle opening and the extreme left of the shot bottle opening. That does not lead to a consistant drop of either.

    Anyone have a comment about jeweler's files + or - ? How would you do it?

    Thanks for comments. Dick
     
  2. grntitan

    grntitan Well-Known Member

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    I'd use my dremel tool with a small sanding drum and go slow checking it many times. It's alot easier taking metal off than putting it back on. Of course i think the file you mentioned would work. Another low budget method would be to wrap 600-800 grit sandpaper around a small wooden dowel rod or perfectly round pencil. A womans cheap cardboard fingernail file might also work if you can bend it to a round shape. Make sure to clearly mark the bushing when you are done so you know its no longer the factory engraved size.

    Matt
     
  3. mag410

    mag410 Active Member

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    Dick,

    Whenever I need to enlarge a MEC bushing I drill them. I have fractional, letter and number drill sets. Between them I can usually find a bit one or two thousands larger than the hole in the bushing. Drill part way through and test, repeat as necessary. It is easiest to get started if you use a drill press. After the first cut you can finish by hand for fine tuning.

    Always drill from the top, so the bushing will fill completely.

    Scratch out the old bushing number so you or anybody else later on will not use the bushing for the wrong load.

    Michael
     
  4. mike campbell

    mike campbell Active Member

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    Lots of ways to modify them.I've used a rat tail file with success. Some people prefer to start with a bigger bushing and add strips of tape to reduce volume. That's more "adjustable" and reversible if desired.

    I've wound up with few very small and larger ones that I have absolutely no need for so I modify those. On very large ones, I've created a dam across both ends with electrical tape, laid them on their side, and dribbled in some 5-minute epoxy. Then I file the epoxy to fine tune.
     
  5. creek

    creek Member

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    Dick,
    There are two ways I have solved this problem.
    1. Use a larger bushing and either coat the inside with nail polish or pieces of electrical tape to reduce to what you want.
    or,
    2. use a hand reamer and small file to enlarge current bushing.

    I found a hand reamer set on eBay for $14.00 and use it all the time on bushings and bars to get them to drop what they are supposed to.

    I hope this helps,

    John (CREEK)
     
  6. Shooter R

    Shooter R Active Member

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    Keep in mind, when trying to make a 12 1/2 mec bushing to give the exact weight of your current powder, the next lot of powder may weigh different.

    Believe it or not... I use a mec 650 Grabber, and if I let the handle "bump hard" at the end of the upstroke it can increase the charge by up to 1/2 a grain, depending on what type of powder I'm using (even with a baffle).

    You may find just going with whichever bushing is closest to your ideal weight may work out just fine, especially since size 12 and 13 bushings are small, and the differences between them is not a lot.
     
  7. PatMiles

    PatMiles Well-Known Member

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    A tapered T-handled hand reamer is what I think Creek is referring to. Any decent hardware store should carry them for about $10.00. Go slow... it's aluminum.

    Pat
     
  8. semperfi909

    semperfi909 Well-Known Member

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    What ShooterR said is some good advice. I am always amazed the lengths people will go to make something difficult. It's a shotgun. You're not pushing 60,000psi and a couple tenths of a grain is meaningless even w/ RedDot. Small bushes will always be inconsistent. Go w/ the smaller between too big / too small and knock the handle with more authority. You won't feel the difference and neither will the target.

    I've had people tell me they check the drop every couple hundred loads. I checked mine when I changed from RedDot to Promo - about 16+lbs of powder ago. And I'd bet that the latest two 8lbers would weigh less than the load calls for too since the bush was - grab hold here - 4tenths light w/ the last 16lbs. But for a sub-10Kpsi ????? C'mon, it's a shotgun. Get over it.
     
  9. Setterman

    Setterman Well-Known Member

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  10. esoxhunter

    esoxhunter Well-Known Member

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    I do the same as Matt. I use my Dremel tool with a sanding drum. Take out a little at a time and weigh the charge. Ed
     
  11. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    I have seen some bushings that were marked with a A. That was a 1/2 size bushing. Try looking them up on the Mec site.
     
  12. Auctioneer

    Auctioneer Well-Known Member

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    Just looked on the Mec site. There is a 12A bushing item number 5012A for $4.60. That might help you on your problem.
     
  13. andybull

    andybull Active Member

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    A T handled reamer will do the job.

    Andy
     
  14. Harley Lekvold

    Harley Lekvold TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    I just measured some of my bushings;
    Number 10 4 each all the same at .261
    " 12 .277
    " 12A 2 each both at .290
    " 13 .295
    " 13A .297
    Some people are recommending using a Dremel tool with a sanding drum. I have never seen a sanding drum that small in diameter. On the other hand, load a few with the number 12 and a few with the 13. I bet neither you nor the target will know the difference.
     
  15. rhett1977

    rhett1977 Member

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    I just use a step bit in my drill. Works great for modifying both bars and bushings
     
  16. skeeljc

    skeeljc Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    Just go and purchase a chain saw sharpening file. They come in several diameters and they are cheap.

    Jim Skeel<BR>
    P/W Dealer/Distributor
     
  17. roger stoddard

    roger stoddard TS Member

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    I modify MEC bushings all the time in my Lathe with a boring bar (Also modify old style MEC bars to accept powder bushings),If I didn't have a lathe I would try an expansion reamer. The reamer would give you a much better job than filing or sanding and they are easy to control. Roger
     
  18. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    If you modify a bushing you should grind off the number.

    I found it was more sensible to use a piece of good electrical tape to reduce a larger one.

    Right about the dial bar, good for 12 & 20 only.

    HM
     
  19. tracyhunter

    tracyhunter Member

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    duct tape.you can add to or subtract from if your next jug is different. and its cheap.
     
  20. rdf59

    rdf59 Member

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    Thanks to you all for you contribution to my question. I think that the rat tail file, a fine one, filing from the top down is the one that is the most controllable.

    I am afraid of the tape due to possible adhesion of powder to exposed adhesive on the tape.

    There is reason to tinker with the capacity in a smaller gauge because a small change creates a significant increase/decrease in velocity.

    I like to shoot SC with 1250-1300 fps 28ga shells. I was faced with the almost big enough bushing giving me 1125 fps and the next one up 0.5g more than the max load which provides about 1270. I don't want to go the overload route.

    I feel that the 150-fps difference makes a difference in SC.

    Again, thanks for all your responses.
     
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