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Marlin Wood Set Wanted

Discussion in 'Want to Buy/Trade Threads' started by locdoc, Apr 13, 2010.

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  1. locdoc

    locdoc Member

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    I am looking for a friend for a stock and forend to fit a Marlin M-36 in 30-30 cal. Ser. number looks like the letter 'Z' in front of 5 digits.

    Numrich and Jack First are both out of stock. Any suggestions ?

    TIA

    Doug Whiton, P/W dealer/dist
     
  2. locdoc

    locdoc Member

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    Thanks for the links. I'm waiting for a return email from Bob's in Royal, AR. gun-parts.com

    The 'Z' prefix indicates a 1964 year of mfg.

    Thanks again for your input.

    Doug Whiton, P/W dealer/dist
     
  3. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    If made in 64 its 336..is your pistol grip or straight stock?..
     
  4. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

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    I thought I saw Marlin listed on Boyd's website.

    HM
     
  5. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    I have a very very nice pistol grip buttstock set of walnut complete with recoil pad...PM me if interested..the forend is for use with a band....the butt had a small crack behind the tang that was professionally repaired and is invisible..will sell for $75 shipped
     
  6. locdoc

    locdoc Member

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    Looks like pistol grip style.

    I would be interested in the wood set you mentioned if you think it will fit this gun. I can provide detailed measurements if you want.

    The guy at Marlin said the 336 wood would not fit and as you can see it is a model 36. Above the model # are the words;

    Glenfield Products New Haven, Conn, USA

    The forend iron is a "cap" style in that it covers the end of the forend and is not a band. It is attached with a screw on each side of the cap not with a through bolt like the barrel band on my 336 has.




    locdoc_2008_03037.jpg


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    I appreciate your interest.

    Doug Whiton, P/W dealer/dist
     
  7. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    the butt would work but my forestock id the kind for the band...not the front cap style
     
  8. locdoc

    locdoc Member

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    I would prefer to get a complete set. Failing that I'll contact you for the butt stock.

    Thanks.

    Doug
     
  9. Setterman

    Setterman Well-Known Member

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    OK...I gotta ask. How do you get a Marlin 36 with no wood???? Truck, horse, fire, or angry wife?
     
  10. locdoc

    locdoc Member

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    This one belongs to a customer. I didn't ask.

    Doug Whiton, P/W dealer/dist
     
  11. W.R.Buchanan

    W.R.Buchanan Member

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    Loc Doc: My Marlin 336 made in 1958 R prefix, looks exactly like yours, except mine has a ramp front sight and a Lyman Peep sight mounted. I'm pretty sure any wood for those guns would be interchangable. I have mine apart right now refinishing the stocks and rebluing. It also uses the foreend cap like yours. Mine also had an open sight on it like yours.

    The fact yours says Glenfield may mean it is a Montgomery Wards Rifle Model 36. I almost bought a Western Field Mod 36 which was the same gun made for Western Auto back in the day.

    My biggest problem is trying get the fore end to match the Buttstocks color. They are made from 2 completely different batchs of wood, and whereas they are both good specimins they are also both completely different I have been trying off and on for a year to get them to match just half way, and my latest attemp last week didn't get me any closer. The butt just won't take stain and the forend just won't lighten up.

    Do yourself a favor. If you are going to put new wood on it, just by a matched set from Boyds. That way they are assured of matching. You can just barely tell in my pics that the buttstock is slightly redder in collor than the foreend. also I profiled my foreend down in the front half so it didn't look so much like a club.

    While you've got it appart you should spend some time deburring all of the internal parts with a stone. Just doing the groove the extractor rides in makes a world of difference in they way the gun cycles. Mine has no lubrication in it whatsoever and it is as slick as one that has 20,000 rounds thru it. They really are great guns, and a much better value than the Winchesters. I paid $225 for mine.

    If you need any more help I can fix you up with websites to visit that give complete instructions on how to slick one up. 1-2 hours is all it takes, and believe me you don't need to be a rocket scientist to do it.

    Randy
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  12. locdoc

    locdoc Member

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    Thanks for the input, Randy. Yes, please send me the web info on smoothing the action. I may just take some measurements and compare them to my own 40+ year old 336 butt stock. My forend utilizes a band not a cap. I'll keep looking.

    Doug
     
  13. W.R.Buchanan

    W.R.Buchanan Member

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    Doug: I started working on Marlin Rifles about 4 years ago. I bought an 1894 Cowboy model rifle in .44 magnum. This gun was the homleyest gun I have ever bought new. The wood had absolutely no character whatsoever. To call it fence post grade walnut was actually an insult to fence posts everywhere!

    To add insult to injury the first 3 shots fired with Factory Reloads went thru the 50ft target sideways.

    I was bummed to say the least.

    I got on the internet and started looking at everything I could find on these rifles cuz I knew they were popular with the Cowboy Action Set.

    I'm pretty sure all of these articles came from www.leverguns.com, but just doing a search for race tuning Marlin rifles will definately get you there.The information is plentyful.

    All of the articles apply to the 1894, 1895 and 336 actions as they are all pretty close, and operate exactly the same way.

    I downloaded an article By Rusty Marlin rusty42marlin@yahoo.com with the complete dissassembly instructions.

    The next article was by Lionel Roach This article tells how to completely rework the action for smoothness.

    I have done it all and I can tell you the majority of the gains are in smoothing the extractor groove, replacing the trigger and hammer spring $13 Brownells)and modifying the cam that pushes the hammer back when operating the lever. Everything else falls under the heading of "deburring", and is nice to do but doesn't accomplish much you can see or feel after the gun is back together.

    Don't be affraid to disassemble one of these guns (after reading the instructions)they are easy to work on and if you can change your own oil you can do this. Also all you need is a good set of screwdrivers (Brownells) some fine wet or dry sandpaper, and a small stone.

    After all of this I can use this gun for everything in N/A from plinking to anything that walks with complete confidence, believe me a 300 grain brass solid bullet at 1800 FPS is good for anything in N/A up to and including 59 DeSotos, and some light trucks! This gun WILL do this with plenty to spare. here's some pics. Note the wood after refinishing not bad huh? And yes it needs the recoil pad.


    wrbuchanan_2009_191250.jpg

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  14. CalvinMD

    CalvinMD Well-Known Member

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    yours probably started plain as this 1982 NIB 336 I just bought ...this one is no longer unshot...and its a keeper
    calvinmd_2008_030362.jpg
     
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