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Making Shot, Got 2 Problems Need Help.

Discussion in 'Uncategorized Threads' started by Bawana, Mar 6, 2007.

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  1. Bawana

    Bawana TS Member

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    I have a Littleton Shot maker and I just today got things going. I melted lead wheel weight. I cleaned the lead or should say skimmed the junk off the top and then put the lead in muffin mold's. When it is in the shot maker I skim it one more time. I had to shut off the machine and clean a dripper by heating it up and tapping the lead out of it. Put it back together and it worked great but the one next to it started to do the same.

    The second problem is now I have some large shot I say size 2 mixed with the 7 1/2 that I'm making. How do I strain it out or do I have to pick it out by hand? Thanks

    Also how do you all clean the shot? I'm using brake fluid.
     
  2. BILL GRILL

    BILL GRILL Well-Known Member

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    Spaghetti colander worked for me. Bill
     
  3. model12s

    model12s TS Member

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    well for washing the shot i use an old parts washer i had from my shop that i dont use anymore after i drian the coolant off the best i can i take it over to the parts washer rinse it off let it drian off then i spread it out on an old bathtowel let it dry then i pick up the towel roll it back and forth a few times and im done. now when i go to put it on the towel i have made a sifter to sift out any bigger ones i sift out the bigger ones and put them back into melting pot. now when i take shot into house and am ready to load i fill a 4 pound empty powder container about 3/4 or 1/2 full apply a touch of graphite shake it around and im ready to reload it. hope this helps........steve
     
  4. Jim101

    Jim101 Active Member

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    Bawana, You have to get the lead CLEAN. Flux it, I use bees wax, and stir the crap, Pun Intended, out of it. You will be surprised how much trash you will get. When you think it's clean, stir it again.

    Letting the ladel get too full will cause large shot. Lead level should be just above the nuts holding the drippers.

    Low temp will also cause large shot and it will cause the drippers stop dripping. Make sure you let the shotmaker get fully up to temp before you start. The littleton doesn't like to work in a cold envirnment.

    Get yourself a SMALL brass mallet and tap the drippers when they slow down. It will help keep oxides from building up and plugging the dripper.

    Never run it empty. Always leave the drippers full, It keeps the steel from rusting and plugging the drippers.

    Hopes this will help you out

    Jim
     
  5. Bawana

    Bawana TS Member

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    Jim 101, when melting the lead I did put a chip of wax in the lead after it melted and then let it burn off and then skimed the top. Are you saying I need to stir the lead with the wax burning?
     
  6. 333t

    333t Member

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    Brake fluid (dot 3) rinses right off with cold water. I use a small bucket with lots of holes punched in the bottom and a garden hose to rinse the shot. Drain off all the brake fluid first. Make sure the holes you punch are smaller than the shot. Run cold water through the bucket for a few minutes and then let it drain. I spread the drained shot on newspaper in an oil drain pan to dry, it takes a few days to completely dry.

    Hardware screen is good for removing the bigger size shot. Make sure you coat the drip shelf thoroughly with soap stone. Sounds like you are getting bigger size shot due to sticking on the shelf. Things will work better if you pour molten lead into the shotmaker instead of putting in solid ingots. The ingots cool the machine down and causes problems like you describe.

    I prefer cool (40-45) weather for making shot because the coolant doesn't heat up so fast.

    Phil
     
  7. Bawana

    Bawana TS Member

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    The shelf is well coated with soap stone. That I already knew. Its the dripper that is giving me a problem. It will drip just fine then stop and the large drops start to build up. I then have to stop and clean it out.
     
  8. 333t

    333t Member

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    I found a small piece of straight spring that just fits into the dripper holes. Bend one end 90 degrees to give you a 1/4" or so cleaning tool. I grab this with a needle nose pliers and clean out the dripper hole from the outside (by the drip shelf) while the unit is hot. The shotmaker must be raised in front to do this so no lead is coming through the drippers. I have my unit hinged at the back so I can raise the front of the shotmaker to turn off the lead flow.

    Cleaning the drippers is something that needs to be done fairly regularly and you don't want to have to remove the drippers to do it. This system works well.

    Phil
     
  9. Jim101

    Jim101 Active Member

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    Bawana, I stir mine while the bees wax is melting and it smokes a lot. Mine does not flame up. If it is lighting up you melt temp is probably too hot.



    Jim
     
  10. tgun90

    tgun90 TS Member

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    Don't stop the process because the flow is not right ;simply heat up the dripper thats not floweing with a propane tourch and give it a few light taps , and the flow will straighten out . Than use some soap stone at the base of the dripper discharge, Most of the time the biggest problem is caused by to high a level of lead , keep the level just above the top of the dripper. Above all don;t let a dripper go dry as this will let any impurties on top of the molten lead to plug it up.If you got a 110 volt unit it takes about twenty minutes before the machine get good and hot and your getting a pretty normal flow, make sure you keep the drip edge well chalked, Good Luck hope this helps .
     
  11. 333t

    333t Member

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    Sounds like every shotmaker machine has its own quirks. Mine runs best when good and hot and filled to the top with lead. As the lead supply gets lower, the production rate slows down so I keep it filled up. I add the lead in a molten state which also helps speed up production.

    Phil
     
  12. tgun90

    tgun90 TS Member

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    I tryd the molten lead but I was always getting a smaller shot , but you can load it up that way. Heres one to try make your shot on a rainy day, make my best shot on rainy days seem to flow realy smooth.
     
  13. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    I found a 12 inch aluminum pan with a long handle and drilled holes slightly larger than #8 shot as close to each other in the bottom of the pan. I used this to separate my shot.

    Cleaning the lead is important. I first melted the wheel weights in a large propane heated turkey cooker and cleaned it as best I could. I then transfered the melted lead into a Lyman melting pot and cleaned it some more. I filled my ingot molds from the bottom of the Lyman melting pot eliminating the surface scum and carbon that always seemed to be on the top of the molten lead.

    tgun90- I was interested in your comment about you having greater success on rainy days. I made my ingots during warm Summer days but I could only get my shot to come out right on cold winter days. One fascinating thing about making shot is that most people have to experiment and develop a system that works for them. A system that works for one may not work best for someone else. Makes little sense to me but it seems to be true.

    Pat Ireland
     
  14. Bawana

    Bawana TS Member

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    The littleton Shot Maker that I have is a single spoon with 7 drippers 110 volt. The first dripper that I had to clean was #6 from left to right count. I got that taken care of and then #7 did the same. It will flow just fine and then you will see that it is slowing down and then clumping up and then just build up and drop a size 2 shot in the tank.
     
  15. tgun90

    tgun90 TS Member

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    Pat, your right about the cold weather shot makeing,the quality is much better at cooler temp;s, think I will try a batch on a cool wet day this might be perfection.
     
  16. Bawana

    Bawana TS Member

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    Here in Va the temp today was 45. The propan tourch was a great thing to have. I have used it and it worked great. I have a cheap spoon that I use to skim the lead and to tap on the the spoon to get the lead to flow again. I have been using oil as a coolent. The ammo boxes are OK but small. I have a problem with trying to empty things and to drain the oil of the shot. I found in the barn an old screen strainer that I put in a 5 gal bucket. I let it stay there just short of the next batch of shot. Once that happens I take the shot that was draining and put it in my shot strainer that took me 3 hours to make. I took an old pot that just fits in another 5 gal bucket and it has about 500 holes that I drilled in to it that will let 7 1/2 shot through but nothing else. That was a pain to make but worth it. I now have to make a better holding tank and a better coolent tank. Thanks for the help and I hope more will come. I feel I have done well but I can do better in time. Its not pretty shot but usable shot.
     
  17. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    For temperature control, I would have the molten lead at the level I wanted and then add a few ingots to the uncovered part of the melting pan near the rear. These ingots would be hot by the time I needed to move them into the molten lead area. The only time I would drop ingots directly into the molten lead in the pan was when the lead got too hot. With a little experience, the sound of the shot falling into the coolant can be a good temperature gage.

    Pat Ireland
     
  18. Bawana

    Bawana TS Member

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    Ajax, how true you are. I'm guilty for doing that from time to time.

    I put the ingots behind the spoon to warm them up. I will now start to put them one by one in the spoon in the rear. I was not sure if that was going to be to much in the spon.
     
  19. tgun90

    tgun90 TS Member

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    If you make your cooling tank to hold about fiften gallons you will be abel to make about 315 lbs. in two eight hour days with that 110volt unit.
     
  20. tgun90

    tgun90 TS Member

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    As pat said you will know when its running good by the sound ,it will make a snapping sound as it hits the coolent
     
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