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lousy crimps pw 2000 28ga

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by LUGNUTZ426, Nov 14, 2011.

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  1. LUGNUTZ426

    LUGNUTZ426 TS Member

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    I am new to reloading. have a used pw2000 28ga. every third or fourth shell
    crimps are terrible. depth is good . I am thinking crimp starter is not finding original crimp grooves and crushing the folds. they come out looking pretty mangled. I am using once fired sts hulls. Out of 10 reloads. 5 look perfect, 3 have some swirl and 2 will be just plain ugly. The pw manual
    only talks about depth and corner roundness, but doesn't address swirl or ugly.
    Any suggestions from you veteran loaders?
     
  2. bigbore613

    bigbore613 Active Member

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    Take a look at the length of the empties to see if they are the same length. Jeff
     
  3. skeeljc

    skeeljc Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    Which crimp starter are you using? Plastic or metal?

    Jim Skeel<BR>
    P/W Dealer/Distributor
     
  4. chipking

    chipking TS Member

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    Before you blame the loader get a batch of WWHS 28ga hulls and load them. I had nothing but trouble including the problem you have with STS 28 ga hulls. I could load any other hull including RIOs without having a problem. You may also encounter varying hull length, hull base separation, and hulls that are much thicker on one side with the STS 28 ga. Only STS hull I won't use.

    --- Chip King ---
     
  5. LUGNUTZ426

    LUGNUTZ426 TS Member

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    PLASTIC PRE CRIMPER. SOME OF THE EMPTYS ARE A LITTLE LONGER THAN OTHERS. SHOULD I SEPERATE THEM BY HEIGHT, THEN WHAT???

    THANKS
     
  6. skeeljc

    skeeljc Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    I agree with Chip King. 28 gauge STS hulls are not good hulls to reload.

    If your hulls have varying lengths you need to sort them and then set the height of the crimp starter for each length.

    P/W makes a metal crimp starter but I do not think it will solve a length problem.

    Jim Skeel
     
  7. LUGNUTZ426

    LUGNUTZ426 TS Member

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    I don't see an adjustment on the crimp starter, just a retaining allen screw. It was installed in its highest position. I could lower it by loosing the screw and moving it down. Maybe make scroll marks on the shaft to keep track
    of the positions? Anyone go through this?

    Another possible inconsistancy I just found may be the shell seating adjustment. it is adjusted to push the shell as far as it will go or slightly underflush. I noticed when removing some shells before ejection that some shells don't hold tight underflush and fall down to where they are flush with the resizing dye bottom. Should this adjustment be changed to only make the shell flush with the dye. I then thought that the primer install may shove it the rest of the way underflush anyway in some shells and make the primer seat depth inconsistant.

    GEEZ THIS SHIT IS GETTING COMPLICATED!!!

    Maybe its time to call the Ponseness help number?
     
  8. Beretta687EELL

    Beretta687EELL Well-Known Member

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    My Brother will only load AA HS 28 gauge hulls. He tossed everything else. He loads lots of them. Bill Malcolm
     
  9. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Raise the pre-crimp station.

    When you pre-crimp, you never want to set the fingers any more than about 30ยบ. The less the better.

    I even have my wad setting higher than normal too. The top of the wad pedals are at or above the inner ring just under the fingers.

    In doing this, you should not have to separate the hulls into their various shell heights.

    Experiment raising the pre-crimper about 1/8" at a time.

    Whiz<BR>
    P/W Distributor
     
  10. skeeljc

    skeeljc Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    The crimp starter can be moved down by loosening the retaining screw. I believe that you can measure the gap between the shoulder on the mounting shaft and the tool head to record the adjustment.

    The crimp starter should close the hull as much as possible without marking the side of the hull below the crimp. The opening in the hull should be 1/8" to 1/4" in diameter after the starter.

    The small amount of difference in the hull location in the shell holder should not create any problem withe the crimp starting operation.

    Variations in hull overall length can be a problem.

    Jim Skeel<BR>
    P/W Dealer/Distributor
     
  11. LUGNUTZ426

    LUGNUTZ426 TS Member

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    Thanks for your replies. My crimp starter was already in its highest position.
    I could grind say 1/16 off the top of the holder to give more height. What is meant by 30 deg and where is it measured? Is it safe to raise the wad. I thought it has to sit on the powder snugly so there is no air pocket?
     
  12. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    I've seen here at the shop, varying hole depths in the top toolhead at the pre-crimp station and even elsewhere.

    If you grind off some of the pre-crimper shaft, simply use a pencil to mark where the shaft enters the top toolhead, and then you can incrementally move it in whichever direction you wish in small amounts.

    The thing to remember is NOT pre-crimping the hull very much.

    Whiz
     
  13. LUGNUTZ426

    LUGNUTZ426 TS Member

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    thanks....I will give it a try.
     
  14. skeeljc

    skeeljc Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    Here is what my pre-crimps look like. These are 20 gauge STS hulls. I am using a P/W plastic crimp starter.

    You will know that you have too much pre-crimp when the crimp starter gets into the outer diameter of the hull.

    Jim Skeel<BR>
    P/W Dealer/Distributor

    skeeljc_2008_030335.jpg
     
  15. superxjeff

    superxjeff Active Member

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    Listen... the best advice you got was in the first post. This is a length issue. take and load all the shorter cases first and see how the first 20 look. If they are all perfect, then you know exactly what the issue is. The cases are not the same length.

    Keep the long ones seprate and junk them or get enough long emptys to change the loader to load them. You will have to change them back and forth unless you load and shoot the longer cases until they are all used up.

    I load over 20,000 28ga reloads a year and I will not screw with it. I have several thousand sts 28ga emptys that I am saving for use in a pinch but so far I haven't been pinched hard enough to have to deal with them. Jeff
     
  16. skeeljc

    skeeljc Supporting Vendor Supporting Vendor

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    SuperXJeff has some good thoughts. I have never loaded Remington 28 gauge hulls in any volume. Someone once gave me 50 once fired Remington 28 gauge hulls that were gold in color. I had to drill out the flash hole in the hulls after I deprimed them by hand with a special punch that I made because the flash hole was too small for the depriming punch on my loader. I loaded them once and tossed them.

    Remington STS hulls are great in the 12, 20 and .410 gauge.

    maybe some day Remington will produce a good 28 gauge hull.

    Jim Skeel
     
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