1. Attention: We have put together a thread with tips and a tutorial video to help with using the new software. Please take a moment to check out the thread here: Trapshooters.com Tutorial & Help Video.
    Dismiss Notice

Johnson Outboard, 90 HP, which prop?

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by oleww, Jul 22, 2009.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. oleww

    oleww Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    72
    I got a new boat that came with 2 aluminium props that I have since dingged up.

    what is the best place to purchase statinless props?
     
  2. markdenis

    markdenis TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    1,123
    This is good place to start looking.

    http://www.wmi.org/multi_boards/props_for_sale/index.html
     
  3. School Teacher

    School Teacher Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    2,053
    Location:
    Louisville, KY
    You can ding up a stainless steel prop also. Be aware of how deep the water is especially when you take off.

    Years ago, during a severe drought, I was running in what I thought was deep water. I heard a little bump so I stopped the boat and trimmed the 150 up. I had a nice chunk of cedar stuck on the prop.

    The prop was a Turbo brand stainless steel prop and I was amazed that the cedar was stuck on it as there was no damage to the prop.

    Many years ago, casting for small mouth, I used to wade a shallow rice bed on the edge of a deep channel in a lake in Michigan (Gun Lake). I found more than a few aluminum prop blades from boats that mistook the depth of the water. The bottom was rocky and would have also damaged a stainless steel prop.

    Stainless steel props are better for higher horsepower motors but they can still be damaged.

    If you are buying a new prop you should have a choice in pitch. I suggest that you discuss with a knowing person type of boat you have and your preference for all out speed, pushing a heavy load (pontoon) or all around use.


    Ed Ward
     
  4. W.P.T.

    W.P.T. TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    8,371
    I have had more than my fair share of boats from Unlimited Outboards to Offshores ... The stainless steel props will usually take out a lower unit when you hit something bad enough to cause much or major damage to a stainless prop, that means big money in repairs ... They make high performance aluminum props that have less flex and that will break before you take out the lower unit or so they claim but in reality hitting anything thats going to do that much damage will usually cause some damage to the lower unit in question and thats big money ... Land and Sea has a shifting prop that can be tuned to you application that literally changes the pitch as you pick up speed and RPM on the engine ... Depending on how big of a boat you are going to use the engine on would determine which pitch you would start with and then shift to under power for maximum performance ... We ran an Unlimited Outboard in the Northern Illinois Drag Boat Association and with an experimental Evinrude outboard (350)HP), we ran a prop that started as a 17 pitch and shifted to a 23 pitch for a top speed of 114 (on radar) in the flying quartermile ... That was fast then and they are a lot faster now days ... The Prop felt like a transmission when it shifted but you had to be carefull when slowing down because it hell played with the handling of the boat when it was down shifting ... The idea of depth finders are great but by the time it tells you that you are in to shallow of water its usually to late to matter and you just trashed another lower unit and prop ... Its best to know the water you will be boating in and trust your gut, if you think its trouble it probably is ... You can usually get a map of the inland waterways that are helpful to a point but are not 100% accurate with depths and or obstructions ... WPT ... (YAC) ...
     
  5. birddog1964

    birddog1964 TS Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2009
    Messages:
    466
    the best way to find out is, go to a prop shop that will let you try several different props to see witch one will suite your needs before you buy. I have a question for you do you have power trim on the boat and a gauge and a depth finder, these are things that are more important than a ss blade. If you don't have trim you will be in the rocks the first time you are out.

    thanks
    lee
     
  6. Trapshooter

    Trapshooter Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    1,239
    Always use aluminum wheel unless you need high performance in deep water only. As said above hitting the bottom with a stainless wheel will take out the lower unit. Make sure you have a wheel with the proper pitch and diameter that matches you hull. Todd
     
  7. ONE EYE

    ONE EYE TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    40
    Most definatly use a alum. prop its the weak link in the system as far a lower unit damage. Always have a spare because their cheap and always buy one with one pitch higher than you need. That way when you ding it up, it will still have a good bite...........
     
  8. birddog1964

    birddog1964 TS Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2009
    Messages:
    466
    I'm sorry I have to disagree with some the post, If you have a ss blade and are aware of your depth in most cases if you hit some rocks at a slow speed your not going to hurt the ss blade and with a aluminum you will, but as everybody is saying it will do damage to the lower unit and it may. Out of twelve yrs fishing pro circuit I damaged ONE lower unit and it was my fault not a ss blade The last time I paid my insurance premium that's what it was for was accidents!

    lee
     
  9. hollywood

    hollywood TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    12
    If you already know what you want, iboats.com has a huge selection and some of the best prices I've seen.
    But, as mentioned above, going to a local shop that will let you try a few before you buy one is a great idea.
     
  10. BDodd

    BDodd TS Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    3,594
    My experience was with a 17' family runabout and a 115hp Johnson that pulled skilled skiers right over the tips of their ski until they learned it would do that. I dinged the aluminum prop both of the first two times out which was enough to degrade the potential of the boat/motor for the day. I swear it would change pitch just using the power. I went to a stainless prop and ran it most of 10 years without ever having to deal with a problem that ruined a day or vacation. Sure, you need to have more thought to where you are operating but I operated that way anyway. For me the SS was the perfect fit......Bob Dodd
     
  11. oleww

    oleww Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    72
    Thanks guys for the advice. I am on my third aluminum prop now. I think a stainless is the way to go. Searching ebay as we speak
     
  12. halfmile

    halfmile Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 1998
    Messages:
    15,648
    Location:
    Green Bay Wisconsin
    I used aluminum on a 55 big twin, and when the river rocks ate it I would take it to the prop guy and he would weld up the pyorrhea.

    But I also carried a spare all the time. I don't know if I would want to wreck a more expensive one.

    HM
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Search tags for this page
15 pitch prop for 90hp
,
1999 johnson 90 hp used props
,

best prop for 90hp johnson

,
johnson 90 hp outboard prop
,
proper prop for my 90 johnson
,
props size johnson 90hp
,
recomended prop 90 hourse johnson
,
what prop is good for 90 hp johnson