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Jeweling/engine turning

Discussion in 'Off Topic Threads' started by DelarockX, Jun 8, 2010.

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  1. DelarockX

    DelarockX TS Member

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    This is purely cosmetic work, right?

    I'm considering getting the block of my Cynergy done. I've seen a couple pictures and most of the Cynergy's I've seen have the same marring on the inside. It looks like it's just paint... will this affect the gun in any way?

    Where's a good place to get this done? I live in NJ.
     
  2. Jim101

    Jim101 Active Member

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    Yes it's cosmetic. You can do it yourself if you got a drill press a wood dowl and some valve lapping compound.





    Jim
     
  3. Brian in Oregon

    Brian in Oregon Well-Known Member

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    You need a way to positively index the work being done in the x-y direction. A milling machine works better, but there are x-y vises made for drill presses, also known as cross compound vises. If you don't get the spacing right it will look like a drunk did it.

    Google for "engine turning". It's the machinists term for "jeweling".
     
  4. DelarockX

    DelarockX TS Member

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    I wish I was handy with this kinda stuff or I'd do it myself. Anyone ever had it done?

    I like the look of jeweled blocks and I think that it'll help with the marring that seems to naturally occur in the finish of the block on Cynergies.
     
  5. wm rike

    wm rike Member

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    Engine turning is not hard, but as noted above, the best way to get the job done is with a milling maching or with a drill press and a two-directional vise. It can be done free-handed, but you need to think ahead and have a good scheme for regular indexing.

    Some folks maintain that the faint scratching of the jewling opertion are effectively little nooks for lube. I'm not so certain about that.

    Engine turning as a surface treatment is not bulletproof, and will scratch and mar just like any other contact surface. It is most commonly applied to non-wearing or non-contact surfaces. If the marring you are talking about is pervassive, there is little point in going to the trouble of jewelling and then later having it obliterated. If it is localized so that most of the jewelled area would not be effected, then it could prove to be a pleasing treatment.
     
  6. over the hill

    over the hill Active Member

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    Ive used pumice and a cork on gold items. Polished first. Works well.

    May not be abrasive enough for steel but worth a try.



    Regards....Gerald
     
  7. Mapper

    Mapper Member

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    I have turned up a couple of holders for Cratex rubber abrasive rods. Works well and enough reach to hit the water table of a double. Just drill an appropriate size hole in some drill rod. DO use a cross slide vise.
     
  8. shot410ga

    shot410ga Well-Known Member

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    Pencil eraser with clover compound on a drill press. Brownell's has a indexing device.
     
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