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Installing Mercury Recoil reducer Mod 12

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by striper, Jul 17, 2009.

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  1. striper

    striper Member

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    Wanting to get one for my mod 12 but wondering how do you install? Just take off the butt plate and slip it into the hole for the stock bolt? Is it secured in any fashion? What size would I order. Thanks for the info.
     
  2. Hap MecTweaks

    Hap MecTweaks Well-Known Member

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    Installing a recoil reducer is a fairly simple task. Nothing at all wrong with a mercury reducer either, it would work better though if they filled the tube with mercury though. A copper tube filled with melted lead is a great one also! I've used those for years and think it's a better reduction unit! Much quicker acting than some liquid splashing forward or spring loaded weight slamming forward making some sort of noise convincing you it's working? Works great for me and about 1/20th the cost of a mercury.

    Hap
     
  3. 12Gagejon

    12Gagejon Member

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    Calif. has ban the selling of mercury recoil devises and its banned for shipping them to ca. too what a croc! Jon
     
  4. Bridger

    Bridger Member

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    Installing them is easy. Whether they work as advertised is something that has been debated many times over. Whether they work or not they do provide a lot of weight for the size of the unit and that's a plus. I don't think you can get the same weight using just lead. Anyway, to install, you need it to fit just tight enough so that it has no forward or lateral movement. You'll want a 7/8" diameter reducer for the Model 12 bolt hole. The reducer will be slightly smaller than the diameter of the hole. Wrap it with just enough masking tape to give a snug but not tight fit. You need to have it so that if you bump the buttstock on a soid surface, the reducer will back itself out of the hole. Get it too tight and you'll have a mess on your hands trying to ever get it out. Use a 7/8' dowel to fill the space between the reducer and the end of the buttstock. You will also need to wrap the dowel with masking tape. Cut the dowel flush with the end of the buttstock and drive a screw at an angle into the dowel so it anchors into the buttstock. If your recoil pad has a solid base, you can just use the recoil pad to hold everything in place.
     
  5. W.P.T.

    W.P.T. TS Member

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    They work, I have put them in guns and taken them out and felt a big difference so I put it back in ... The absolute best recoil reduction system that I have personally used is a PFS but they don't make them for Model 12's which is what I have been shooting when I shoot lately ... I have an Edwards recoil reducer that I might try in it one of these days but have not found the need because it fits me ... WPT ... (YAC) ...
     
  6. shot410ga

    shot410ga Well-Known Member

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    So what, if a guy wants to stand on the 27 and shoot a 78,,,,, Is there any skin off anyone's back if he does just that? So, all of you less than 27 yard shooters; if you ever make the 27 yard line, you can do the same thing for the next 25 years, and who cares...
     
  7. Dave P

    Dave P TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    aren't you just adding more weight in the stock with these?
     
  8. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    Here is how to make another recoil reducer that will work on a M-12. Fill an empty hull with the desired weight of shot, fill up the remaining space in the hull with paper and glue. Crimp the hull after the glue had dried. Then take the magazine spring out and put the hull in the forward end of the spring with the brass head forward. The hull will fit into the spring and the brass head will keep it in place. Put the spring back in. When the gun is shot, you can both hear and feel the weighted hull slide back and then forward a few inches. I don't really like the sound, but it will reduce the felt recoil a little more than a dead weight in the stock.

    Pat Ireland
     
  9. Hap MecTweaks

    Hap MecTweaks Well-Known Member

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    Pat my friend, now we have something we can actually test and see,, er I mean feel the results of!! I used that method in my old squirrel gun years ago also!

    Any weight remaining stationary while the gun is in motion backward has to have more felt recoil than a fixed weighted gun! You will hear the slamming effect of the mag tube spring pushing the weight backward but the gun has already kicked you!! I've tried both ways, lead filled hulls forward of the mag tube spring and at the rear trying it differently. Neither does what a fixed weight does in the stock. Except for noise of course.

    I'd wager one southern ice tea on the outcome of that test?? :)

    Hap
     
  10. phirel

    phirel TS Member

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    Hap- You got a bet. But, first I need to qualify an error I made. The shell I described should be placed in the magazine spring at the rear of the magazine spring, not the front. As the gun moves toward the rear, the shell tends to stay in place and transfers motion energy to the spring. This energy is released after the "big bang" hits your face and shoulder. Sorry about the error in my first post, sometimes I get things like front and back mixed up. I do pretty well with up and down and fair with right and left, but front and back are confusing.

    Pat Ireland
     
  11. Hap MecTweaks

    Hap MecTweaks Well-Known Member

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    Yer on Bud!!

    "As the gun moves toward the rear, the shell tends to stay in place and transfers motion energy to the spring."

    As that's taking place, transferin all that energy to the spring, what's happening at the shoulder? :)

    Hap
     
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