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How to remove Browning Stock gloss clear finish.

Discussion in 'Shooting Related Threads' started by StansCustoms, May 8, 2013.

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  1. StansCustoms

    StansCustoms Well-Known Member

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    I'm working on a Browning stock that has the glossy factory finish on it. It is pretty dinged up and it has a little redder stain than a new schnable forearm that I'm going to use on the gun.

    I have spot repaired several stocks and had good results...but I'm going to have to get ALL the gloss finish off this stock to restain it. Sanding it off has proved to be VERY slow. 3 hours already and a long way to go...plus I'm going to have a hard time getting all the clear off next to the checkering without having to redo the checkering.

    My question ...is there a paint remover or something similar that will work to remove the majority, if not all the factory clear coat?? I don't care how messy it is...I have to clean, sand and refinish the stock anyway. I will be going back with a gloss clear laquer after I sand and stain the wood.

    Thanks..Stan
     
  2. Bob_K

    Bob_K Well-Known Member

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    Have you tried Easy Off oven cleaner?
     
  3. Tech Writer Jeff

    Tech Writer Jeff Active Member

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    If the oven cleaner doesn't work, Brownells has a product called "Certi-Strip" (click on the link above). Brownells says it's "so tough it even strips Remington and Browning epoxy finishes".
     
  4. Unknown1

    Unknown1 Well-Known Member

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    I dislike using any chemical strippers to remove a finish from wood because invariably some of the stripper or its components will remain in the wood to interfere with a new finish.

    I removed the finish from an XT stock and fore end with double-cut files...bastard, second cut and smooth in several sizes (all Nicholson, all sharp but none new)...a 1" sanding drum in a hand drill to remove finish from concave areas and several grits of abrasive paper. The stock took 4, 2 hour sessions and the fore end took 3.

    I filed mostly across the grain and the finish came off easily. The process was faster than I expected and I removed virtually no wood. If you're careful to always move the files perpendicular to the cut there will be no tooth marks created. It's actually kinda Zen to sit on the lanai in the evening with a rum and a sandwich filing on the wood and smell the sea air.

    I finished the wood with about a dozen layers of Pro-Custom oil and it turned out beautiful... once I got home to finish it.

    Keller
     
  5. StansCustoms

    StansCustoms Well-Known Member

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    Haven't tried Easy -Off on gun stocks Bob...but have removed painted on door signs from trucks I bought to sell. Worked pretty well there, because sign paint is not very tough....and car paint is. So it left the factory paint unharmed.

    Thanks also for your input Keller, but as far as the files etc. are concerned I've been working on this one long enough to determine the finish is very hard..and manual removal, sanding filing etc., is more work than the wood is worth to me.

    Thanks Jeff also..I'll look into the link at Brownells.

    I'm going to have to use something to fill the grain with before staining ...if anyone has some ideas there...I be obliged to hear about them as well.

    Thanks again...Stan
     
  6. SetterGuy

    SetterGuy Member

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    Google for 'Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper' > I recently refinished a Mirage forend that was covered with many layers of an aged, thick finish that had completely covered in the checkering ..... used the above product as directed ( brush on a gel like fluid, keep wet by reapplication until old finish bubbles up, wipe off & clean checkering with a tooth brush. It came out like a freshly checkered forend, all in 15 min.

    ( it is a methylene dichloride based product - easy on the wood, and it subsquently took on a matching dye and hand rubbed oil finish without problems)
     
  7. mikkeeh

    mikkeeh Active Member

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    Ive had pretty good luck with the "citrus" strippers available at Lowes and Home Depot. Apply, let it work, scub with course steel wool and repeat as necessary. That gloss finish is tough.......it took me 3 or four applications. I used dental picks to clean the checkering after first scrubbing with finish remover and a soft bristle brush.....like a detail brush or an old toothbrush. Hope this helps.
     
  8. lostandout

    lostandout Member

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    citri strip works great i use the stripper and then wash the stock with dawn dish soap and hot water to remove the oil in the wood and a toothbrush for the checkering works for me

    brian
     
  9. pizza gun

    pizza gun Member

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    save yourself the time use the chemical stripper ,brass brush the checkering and carefully use a scraper .its not fun thats why the pros get the big bucks
     
  10. BigM-Perazzi

    BigM-Perazzi Well-Known Member

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    keep it wet, wrapped in tin foil or newspaper..
     
  11. Stl Flyn

    Stl Flyn Well-Known Member

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    Bix paint stripper worked great until they had to change it. Wicked stuff. You can still use a heavy duty paint stripper. Use a tooth brush in the checkering after letting the stripper work. Scrap off the finish outside the checkering. You have to keep it wet, while it has the chance to work. Re-apply every five minutes or so. Then test to see how soft before scraping.
     
  12. StansCustoms

    StansCustoms Well-Known Member

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    I tried Crown Tuff Strip in a aerosol spray can for Epoxy, paint etc., from Lowes. The spray can worked well...but the stripper was poor at best.

    It took 5 or 6 applications before I finally got enough of the clear coat removed to finish up with a plastic razor blade and sandpaper. I would use something from an auto paint store if I did it again...or try the Brownell's stuff if I had time to wait for it to be shipped.

    Got 'er done though...and stained...ready for the clear coat tomorrow.

    Many thanks to everyone for the tips..most appreciated.

    Best regards..Stan
     
  13. whiz white

    whiz white Strong Supporter of Trapshooting Banned

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    Acetone, but you'd need enough to soak the entire stock in it and that might prove to be expensive.
     
  14. Gamba Man

    Gamba Man Active Member

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    'Circa 1850 Furniture Stripper' ...remove excess stripper from stock and neutralize wood with good quality lacquer thinner.
     
  15. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member

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    Citristrip will work, but not with one application. Coat the stock and wrap it in foil so it doesn't dry too quickly. Most strippers will not remove a Browning finish. Must state on the label that it will remove an epoxy finish to have a chance. Removing a Browning finish is a nightmare. For all those tempted, forget about it.

    Acetone won't even remove Tru-oil and it bounces off a Browning finish.
     
  16. Harley Lekvold

    Harley Lekvold TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    I just did a Bt-99 Plus stock by soaking it in MEK. The finsh just about fell off. If you use MEK, use all the common sense precaution's, ie fresh air, keep flames away, etc.
     
  17. Johnny

    Johnny Well-Known Member

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    I will remember that Harley, MEK certainly melts PVC items.
     
  18. Michael.B

    Michael.B Member

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    I haven't done a Browning stock. I have refinished Savage, Marlin, Winchester, and Remington. Acetone worked well on each of them.

    Michael B.
     
  19. W.R.Buchanan

    W.R.Buchanan Member

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    I use normal Jesco paint stripper available at any paint store. Lowes.Home Depot etc.

    It should take you less than 1 hour to completely remove all of the offending finish.

    Randy
     
  20. Ahab

    Ahab Well-Known Member

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    If it is an epoxy finish ... you want a stripper with methylene chloride in it!
     
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